Exactly the same problem on my 98 4.6.I have Rusell's BMR kit and the vehicle is going in on Monday to the shop to check this out.We will check brake pressure switches as well.Brake accumulator seems fine.Will report back on Wednesday when vehicle is done.
xmas lights on dash (TC, Park Brake, ABS) HELP
:think:
Guys, I love my rover and now I have another issue to work out.
Every time I press on the brakes a weird wine noise is made and the dash flashes the ABS, TC, and Parking Brake warning lamp all at the same time and then goes out.
This happens every time I press the brakes just flashes and turn off.
Anyone experience this, anyone have any solutions?
Brakes seem to work fine even the ABS. I slammed on the brakes and I could hear the ABS working.
Guys, I love my rover and now I have another issue to work out.
Every time I press on the brakes a weird wine noise is made and the dash flashes the ABS, TC, and Parking Brake warning lamp all at the same time and then goes out.
This happens every time I press the brakes just flashes and turn off.
Anyone experience this, anyone have any solutions?
Brakes seem to work fine even the ABS. I slammed on the brakes and I could hear the ABS working.
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Accumalator is gone, they dont last forever
Viperover is right. that is a classic sign your accumulator is going out. Its an easy repair, but the part costs around $200. Get it done ASAP!
So if it actually goes out the TC, Park Brake and ABS warning light will stay on?
They just flash when I step on the brake.
They just flash when I step on the brake.
No, if the lights are flicking on as you depress the brake pedal, the accumulator is already gone.
If I were you, I would replace the accumulator right away, as it's a relatively cheap part and a very easy fix. I bought mine new for $120.
If the 3 lights stay permanently on, that would mean you have a way bigger problem. It indicates that the abs pump is fried. FYI, a new abs pump assembly is $1,300.
BTW, be sure to bleed the brakes after you replace your accumulator. The opinion is divided here as to the need to bleed the brakes afterwards, but when accumulator loses its effectiveness, it usually means that the accumulator's nitrogen gas has been released into the system.
If I were you, I would replace the accumulator right away, as it's a relatively cheap part and a very easy fix. I bought mine new for $120.
If the 3 lights stay permanently on, that would mean you have a way bigger problem. It indicates that the abs pump is fried. FYI, a new abs pump assembly is $1,300.
BTW, be sure to bleed the brakes after you replace your accumulator. The opinion is divided here as to the need to bleed the brakes afterwards, but when accumulator loses its effectiveness, it usually means that the accumulator's nitrogen gas has been released into the system.
Mine does the same to a certain extent, I'de had a look for a new accumulator and I can only find new ones for about £700, and used ones I can find in about the £150-£250 bracket. Where did you guys find them so cheap?TheoR said:If I were you, I would replace the accumulator right away, as it's a relatively cheap part and a very easy fix. I bought mine new for $120.
Where did you find a new accumulator for $120?
Thanks.
Thanks.
I think you are talking about a differerent part, I recently bought a new accumulator (Genuine Wabco part) from Island 4x4 for £89.99 inc.vat if memory serves me right.Tango said:I'de had a look for a new accumulator and I can only find new ones for about £700, and used ones I can find in about the £150-£250 bracket. Where did you guys find them so cheap?
Cheers
Surely its not just the reservoir that needs replacing? Does the pump and general assembly also wear out?Col said:I think you are talking about a differerent part, I recently bought a new accumulator (Genuine Wabco part) from Island 4x4 for £89.99 inc.vat if memory serves me right.Tango said:I'de had a look for a new accumulator and I can only find new ones for about £700, and used ones I can find in about the £150-£250 bracket. Where did you guys find them so cheap?
Cheers
More often than not it is the Accumulator that fails due to low charge pressure.£90.00 against a £1000.00 for a exchange pump unit from L/R or £200.00 for a second hand one that may not last a day. Worth trying a Accumulator for £90.00 first in my view.
Unless your pump is faulty of course.
Cheers
Unless your pump is faulty of course.
Cheers
Col beat me to it, but I got my accumulator from Island 4x4 as well.
Since I'm in the US, I didn't have to pay the VAT, and on top of that the BP to USD exchange rate is very good. The shipment was by Royal Post, and the fee was a reasonable $10 dollars, If my memory serves me correct. Drawback I suppose is that since it was an international shipment, it took about a week for the part to get here.
As for Tango's question, accumulator is what regulates the pressure when you depress the brake pedal. The abs pump builds up the pressure to a certain level inside the accumulator then shuts down. So, if your brake system is building up pressure, but if you have a flicking brake related lights, it's almost always the accumulator problem. However, best to act VERY QUICKLY, before the problem gets worse. Also, do bleed the brakes afterward.
Regards,
Since I'm in the US, I didn't have to pay the VAT, and on top of that the BP to USD exchange rate is very good. The shipment was by Royal Post, and the fee was a reasonable $10 dollars, If my memory serves me correct. Drawback I suppose is that since it was an international shipment, it took about a week for the part to get here.
As for Tango's question, accumulator is what regulates the pressure when you depress the brake pedal. The abs pump builds up the pressure to a certain level inside the accumulator then shuts down. So, if your brake system is building up pressure, but if you have a flicking brake related lights, it's almost always the accumulator problem. However, best to act VERY QUICKLY, before the problem gets worse. Also, do bleed the brakes afterward.
Regards,
After replacing the ABS Accumulator will the "TC, Park Brake and ABS" lights that currently flash on, go out after installing a new accumulator or do I have to reset them some how?
No resetting necessary. Unlike EAS faults, they go away by themselves if all system is OK.
Sounds good, I will order up a new ABS accumulator and let everyone know after installing it, if it makes the flashing TC, ABS and Parking Brake warning lights stay off.
Report back :
The brake modulator repair was done and one of the plastic washers was CRACKED ! (Thanks Russell and Dennis for the BMR kit)
The indy mechanic is convinced that the brake accumulator is working fine . (It switches on at ignition and pressurises the modulator and then switches off).
He reckons if it runs constantly then it should be replaced.
However , the ABS and TC dash lights are STILL flashing when brakes are applied and he reckons it is an electrical fault.
So , it's at the auto electricians now who will check firstly for faults logged using testbook or will have to trace electrics as per rave.
Any other suggestions?
The brake modulator repair was done and one of the plastic washers was CRACKED ! (Thanks Russell and Dennis for the BMR kit)
The indy mechanic is convinced that the brake accumulator is working fine . (It switches on at ignition and pressurises the modulator and then switches off).
He reckons if it runs constantly then it should be replaced.
However , the ABS and TC dash lights are STILL flashing when brakes are applied and he reckons it is an electrical fault.
So , it's at the auto electricians now who will check firstly for faults logged using testbook or will have to trace electrics as per rave.
Any other suggestions?
Fakawe. I think your indy is getting confused. A bad accumulator does not cause constant running of the pump. A good way to check its operation is to switch on the key and wait for the pump to switch off when the system is pressurised. Then apply the brakes a few times. If the accumulator is bad the pump will run virtually every time the pedal is pressed - maybe every second one. You should get four or more applications before it runs.
That is assuming the system is 100% air free. If there is air in the system it can appear that the accumulator is ok as it takes a while for the air to get compressed. The accumulator is in effect a big air (nitrogen) bubble in the system except it is contained.
From another ABS thread -
That is assuming the system is 100% air free. If there is air in the system it can appear that the accumulator is ok as it takes a while for the air to get compressed. The accumulator is in effect a big air (nitrogen) bubble in the system except it is contained.
From another ABS thread -
If you are still battling in a week or so you are welcome to visit me in CT and I can fit my spare accumulator to your vehicle and see what happensghur said:The lights coming on with brake application is a classic symptom of a bad accumulator - as you apply the brakes there is a sudden drop in system pressure due to the lack of reserve pressure in the accumulator. The ECU interprets this as a problem and the lights illuminate as a warning but simultaneously the relay is triggered and the pump runs to restore the pressure which puts the lights out.
Thanks for the offer geoff. The auto electricians also reckon it is the accumulator and i have copied this thread to them to test the accumulator as you describe. They will do a testbook session anyway while it's there.
Will get an accumulator from LR tomorrow.
Will get an accumulator from LR tomorrow.
REPLACED THE BRAKE ACCUMULATOR TODAY AND THE XMAS LIGHTS HAVE DISAPPEARED ! `)
Glad the problem is sorted. I guess we have to convene a SSRR meeting soon to discuss the accumulator changing procedure. Over a few beers of course !!
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
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