[FB29]

I have always loved these cars, but have never needed a car. I'm moving to Los Angeles for work. We are going from 0 cars in NYC to 2 cars in Los Angeles.

Well, one of them will be a Range Rover. I can't afford a new or even recent model, so I have my eye on an L322, probably in the 2009-2012 years, definitely in black, probably with the big engine.

I'd appreciate any advice, but specifically

• Engine - I feel like I want the big engine, just for fun. The 4.4L would give me more options for purchase. No idea on N/A vs S/C. Would appreciate any thoughts on this.
• Mileage - what mileage should I try to stay under and/or what's a reasonable expectation lifespan (in miles)?
• Timing guide - I've read about timing guide / belt issues, which seems incredibly common and about a $10,000 cost to fix. The only thing I've seen is to listen to engine running for a rattle. Any other tips for detecting this issue?
• Gasket - How common is the head gasket issue? I've read this is also a $10,000 expense.
• Suspension - I've read that it's possible to DIY replace the air suspension for around $2,000. I assume that only holds if I have a lift in a real garage? Or could could I just roll the car up on those little wheel ramps?
• Options - I would certainly prefer NOT to have the screens in the seats, but I wouldn't say no just based on that. Is there any option I'm really going to miss if I don't have it?

I'd appreciate any advice.

And let me know if you want to sell me your old L322!

-Austin

 

[Richard_G]

I've moved you questions to a forum where you are likely to get some good advice. I'm not sufficiently familiar with the L322 to answer your questions on the engine but the suspension is most definitely DIYable. You don't need a lift, just a trolley jack so you can lift the body up off the suspension.

 

[Googs]

If i was to purchase a L322 again i would purchase a 4.4lt Jag '06-'09 model as the research i've done over the months i believe the engine is out of them all the most reliable as far as timing chain problems, the airbag system is good too (much the same as any others) you can refit new airbags and refit O-rings or renew the valve blocks for under 2K, mileage as with the rest of it is your choice, i would try to keep under 100k. You will not need a lift to do any underneath work on these vehicles (although it would be nice) a 3-4 ton trolly jack will be suffice. these are all my own opinion.

 

[75Jimmy]

I'll answer as i've got a 2011 Santorini black Supercharged.

Engine, the 5.0 is still being used today, so it's not a bad or even unreliable engine. While there have been some timing chain failures, they're few and far between. Most of the time, the car will tell you when you need to change the timing chains via CELs, or you will hear the slapping at start up. Go Supercharged, the 510hp is absolutely mind-boggling. The fact that this brick can hit 60 in under 6 seconds is just fun.

Mileage, if it hasn't had valve covers and timing chain tensioners done, keep it under 100K. If the timing work has been done within 50K miles, i wouldn't hesitate to buy it as long as everything else is in good shape.

Timing guides. If you're not changing the chains themselves and the vanos gears, it's only a $3K job. If you overhaul the entire timing system, it's 6-10K depending on shop. Most of the noise you hear when these things run is the high-pressure fuel pumps on the engine.

Head gaskets, it's a rare failure. Happens on every car if not maintained properly or fixed early when issues arise. Just keep on top of it. When shopping, pull off the oil cap and look for chocolate milk-colored goo underneath.

Suspension, is fairly cheap and easy to completely overhaul yourself with basic tools.

Must-have options, 4 zone climate control, heated and cooled front seats, the upgraded sound system, and power (super rare to fine) or fixed steps to avoid ruining the leather by sliding out of the car.

 

[FB29]

This in incredible advice! Thank you.

I'm closing in on a few options. I'm trying to spend about $20k on the truck and keep $10k saved for maintenance. I have found about a dozen options under 100k miles. I am now in the middle of interpreting carfax reports and figuring out what options the cars have. It's a maze.

The funny thing is I think it will be easier to make a decision if I tell myself that this is just my first Range Rover. I'm leaning towards a 2010-2012 5.0L S/C. I just can't see myself being unhappy with that decision three years from now.

Here's my test drive checklist

• Listen to engine for timing chain rattle
• Pull off the oil cap and look for chocolate milk-colored goo underneath (thanks 75Jimmy!)
• Push all the buttons / test seat motor
• Test raising / lowering suspension
• Floor it probably

I will report back with what I'm looking at in more detail. And of course with the purchase!

 

[Googs]

If you get one with a sunroof check the floors for wetness from blocked drain tubes!

 

[929929c]

2007-2009 годы самые беспроблемные с этими ДВС. 2012 год, но надо смотреть двигатель, цепи

 

[75Jimmy]

This in incredible advice! Thank you.

I'm closing in on a few options. I'm trying to spend about $20k on the truck and keep $10k saved for maintenance. I have found about a dozen options under 100k miles. I am now in the middle of interpreting carfax reports and figuring out what options the cars have. It's a maze.

The funny thing is I think it will be easier to make a decision if I tell myself that this is just my first Range Rover. I'm leaning towards a 2010-2012 5.0L S/C. I just can't see myself being unhappy with that decision three years from now.

Here's my test drive checklist

• Listen to engine for timing chain rattle
• Pull off the oil cap and look for chocolate milk-colored goo underneath (thanks 75Jimmy!)
• Push all the buttons / test seat motor
• Test raising / lowering suspension
• Floor it probably

I will report back with what I'm looking at in more detail. And of course with the purchase!

If it has heated and cooled seats, make sure they work. Replacing the peltier systems (two per front seat) can be a DIY job, I’ve done it, but they are $500-600 a piece.

 

[defendersmn]

@FB29. I purchased a 2012 5.0 SC L 322 about a month ago, with a known engine "issue" Owner had been told it needed a new engine. So I got a reasonable deal for it. 114,000 miles. I have now gone into the engine and have a few thoughts. If there are noises coming from the engine, you would very much want to go ahead and have that managed. The left side timing chain tensioner had failed, and the chain had jumped teeth so totally out of time and bent the valves on one side. I now have the cylinder heads at the machine shop for resurfacing and new valves. Will replace all of the timing chains, guides, tensioners and cam sprockets.

The other thing to consider about the 5.0 SC is the supercharger. I tore mine apart and the isolater between the snout and the rotors was broken. That had lead some damage to the shaft inside of the snout. Also, looked like there was probably some wear to the rotors due to the failure. So, I am rebuilding the Supercharger. Apparently slop in the SC can cause a taping noise, particularly on start up. Good news is you can buy a remanufactured one from reputable people for 1,500 to 2K.

The cylinders look good so I am leaving the block alone. Looking at everything else in the engine bay, I don't see many other potential issues, but I am doing a lot of "while I'm here" things that are most likely not 100% necessary. Alternator, starter, power steering pump, oil cooler, water pump, thermostat, boost sensor, oxygen sensors, all hoses and belts.

Despite being from the rust belt, it looks pretty good underneath. However, the rear aspect of the rear wheel wells to have a rust spot. I am sure that is probably worse than it looks, but I plan to take out the wheel wells to inspect and probably will be taking that to the body shop soon for fixing.

The suspension is worth looking into, replacing the shocks, struts, and the air suspension is probably a bit higher than 1-2 K if you are buying all new parts, I was thinking 3-4 K for everything.

 

[len750]

I have always loved these cars, but have never needed a car. I'm moving to Los Angeles for work. We are going from 0 cars in NYC to 2 cars in Los Angeles.

Well, one of them will be a Range Rover. I can't afford a new or even recent model, so I have my eye on an L322, probably in the 2009-2012 years, definitely in black, probably with the big engine.

I'd appreciate any advice, but specifically

• Engine - I feel like I want the big engine, just for fun. The 4.4L would give me more options for purchase. No idea on N/A vs S/C. Would appreciate any thoughts on this.
• Mileage - what mileage should I try to stay under and/or what's a reasonable expectation lifespan (in miles)?
• Timing guide - I've read about timing guide / belt issues, which seems incredibly common and about a $10,000 cost to fix. The only thing I've seen is to listen to engine running for a rattle. Any other tips for detecting this issue?
• Gasket - How common is the head gasket issue? I've read this is also a $10,000 expense.
• Suspension - I've read that it's possible to DIY replace the air suspension for around $2,000. I assume that only holds if I have a lift in a real garage? Or could could I just roll the car up on those little wheel ramps?
• Options - I would certainly prefer NOT to have the screens in the seats, but I wouldn't say no just based on that. Is there any option I'm really going to miss if I don't have it?

I'd appreciate any advice.

And let me know if you want to sell me your old L322!

-Austin

Range Rover Supercharged 510 HP Land Rover 1 Owner Clean Title SUV... Found this on Craigslist this morning. I'm here in Scottsdale if you need it parked somewhere till you pick it up. This is EXACTLY like mine ... Well, except mine has 60, 000 miles!

 

[johnny w]

This in incredible advice! Thank you.

I'm closing in on a few options. I'm trying to spend about $20k on the truck and keep $10k saved for maintenance. I have found about a dozen options under 100k miles. I am now in the middle of interpreting carfax reports and figuring out what options the cars have. It's a maze.

The funny thing is I think it will be easier to make a decision if I tell myself that this is just my first Range Rover. I'm leaning towards a 2010-2012 5.0L S/C. I just can't see myself being unhappy with that decision three years from now.

Here's my test drive checklist

• Listen to engine for timing chain rattle
• Pull off the oil cap and look for chocolate milk-colored goo underneath (thanks 75Jimmy!)
• Push all the buttons / test seat motor
• Test raising / lowering suspension
• Floor it probably

I will report back with what I'm looking at in more detail. And of course with the purchase!

Plan on 10-12 MPG is the downside but the S/C goes like a bat otta hell. john

 

[NorCal RR]

I love the 5.0 SC both for its incredible output but also its manners just tooling around. It feels like it will always do what you want with a flick of the stick to the left (goes into Sport shifting map) with a feeling of endless pools of power. And on the freeway at a good clip, I still see 15-16 mpg which I think is solid for a heavy brick with an SC V8. Of course the downside of the 5.0 is the timing chain tensioner so read up on that. Carfax reports don't really give accurate maintenance info but the owner should be able to get prior history from a dealer of any work done by them. And anyone claiming to have done the tensioner upgrade should be able to provide receipts. Or plan to handle on your own. Personally, mine is fine at 83k but I do plan to do a major service including the tensioner upgrade and a whole bunch of nearby items sometime in the next couple of years. I had a black P38 and thats a whole lot of blackness to keep clean, but thats a personal choice and they do look great. Personally, I don't find the option list to make much difference to me. I like the camera package (called Vision package), the upgraded stereo (although not as much of an upgrade as you might hope). Mine didn't have the tow package but I added the hitch for a few hundred and a couple hours DIY. Of course in the western US we don't have to worry about rust. But if you look at anything that has much time in the east coast, I would inspect underneath. Any L322 should be on its second set of front suspension air bags by now so look for that in the history. At your budget of $20k plus $10k, you should be able to find some nice options.

 

[gstrudler]

I'll second most of what's been said; I have an '11 S/C that I've now owned for 5 years. I have 140k miles and haven't needed to do anything with the timing chain components (yet), but air suspension has definitely needed work (replaced or rebuilt almost every single component in the system minus the air lines).

The S/C is definitely a blast. Two other major benefits of the S/C trim is active damping on the struts and larger brakes. I also typically see 15-16mpg mixed city/freeway, but I don't drive aggressively that often.

'10-'12 doesn't include the tow bar by default, so you may have to add that if you want it (hint: you can get one from the '06-'09 from a wrecking yard).

Should be somewhat standard practice, but you'll want to replace all the fluids in the truck at this age (transmission, diffs, etc). I had to do the transmission fluid twice for it to settle down and be happy after resetting the adaptations. Unfortunately changing the S/C oil is not feasible unless you're pulling the S/C to do timing chain or other engine work.

As long as you understand that you'll be having to do some periodic maintenance and repair (you are talking about a 10+ year-old vehicle) it's a great ride.