Range Rovers Forum banner

Worth repairing L322 with these issues? Valve Stem Seals, Rear Main Seal, Waterpump bearing etc....

8K views 40 replies 17 participants last post by  stemikel 
#1 ·
So.....I love the L322...except all the issues :)

4.4L BMW V8...

Owned this one only about 6 months.

Started puffing smoke out of exhaust at startup. A few times while driving as well. (Mechanic said valve stem seals and doesn't have tools for it, quoted 30 hours labor approx).....$2,800 USD

Also getting a P705 Range Position trans sensor once in a while code

getting a loud squeal noise after decelerating and idle after 10-15 minutes running vehicle....which only stops after cooling down and shutting down for 30+ minutes.

I bought the truck for $4,200 so not a ton but still a good amount to me. Probably could dump it with all the issues for $2,500? But it is low miles and I like it.... only 112k miles 2003.

Also rear main seal has an oil leak.

I put in Lucas oil stop leak, and valve restore additives..no change.

What would you do in my situation (not that handy mechanically)


Dave
Florida USA
L322 2003 4.4L
 
See less See more
#8 ·


May or may not be your problem but it came to mind based on the symptoms you are having and is a much more common failure than leaking valve stem seals. I'd recommend researching more into it. There are many forum posts and vides on youtube. You will also find the BMW guys talking about it on their forums. Let us know if you get a second opinion or end up getting this fixed!
 
#9 ·
I have a 04 Range Rover Sport HSE, 175K from new. As you know, they are nice rides but they do have issues and at 112K they will start to appear. If you fix them, whether yourself or through a shop, it still has a high repair cost compared to other brands. Over the last 2 years I have done transmission rebuild, air suspension replacement, and just completed a total timing chain kit install (3 weeks ago). Plus routine maintenance along the war. Now I have 2 issues;
1. Humming sound that I'm trying to diagnose.
2. Digital dash is fuzzy upon startup and when indicators are used.

It's constant repairs and maintenance with any vehicle at this age and mileage, I don't care the brand. These just cost more per maintenance hour and parts. For me it's worth it because I'm keeping this one (after saying that about the 2 other Land Rover's listed below). I reside in New Mexico and want a good off road vehicle for back country driving. I have a cabin located 7,500' in the McKinley Mountains and have to access that area all year. Summer dry desert heat, high temperatures, deep mud and water, winter snow packed and freezing temperatures. This 04 is hopefully the answer, as the wife upgraded her vehicle, so I inherited this one to develop. Just installed Yakima Roof Rack system with Mega Warrior Basket. Found a winch kit on line, which bolts to lower bumper. That's the next upgrade.

Another foot note:
1. I have tried with a 98 Range Rover 50th Edition and eventually gave up due to repair cost at 198K. It's on the side of my drive way awaiting part sales and then eventually dumping it. Dumped allot into it over the many years of ownership, and then it became cost prohibitive to go any further. It has a major electrical issues, caused by a blown heater core, flooding the entire from floor panel and it's never been the same after changing out damaged electrical modules. :mad:?
2. I also tried with a 98 Disco 11 and eventually became cost probative over the years as well. Sold. ??

The are well made, can do everything they're designed for and made to do, great rides, beautiful vehicles. Over engineered, as are most European brands. If you can afford it, continue to sort it out, you will be pleased if you keep it. If you cannot afford the repairs, cut it loose and count your losses... because more issues are on the horizon.

Just my $0.02 ... :unsure:
 
#12 ·
I have a 04 Range Rover Sport HSE, 175K from new. As you know, they are nice rides but they do have issues and at 112K they will start to appear. If you fix them, whether yourself or through a shop, it still has a high repair cost compared to other brands. Over the last 2 years I have done transmission rebuild, air suspension replacement, and just completed a total timing chain kit install (3 weeks ago). Plus routine maintenance along the war. Now I have 2 issues;
1. Humming sound that I'm trying to diagnose.
2. Digital dash is fuzzy upon startup and when indicators are used.

It's constant repairs and maintenance with any vehicle at this age and mileage, I don't care the brand. These just cost more per maintenance hour and parts. For me it's worth it because I'm keeping this one (after saying that about the 2 other Land Rover's listed below). I reside in New Mexico and want a good off road vehicle for back country driving. I have a cabin located 7,500' in the McKinley Mountains and have to access that area all year. Summer dry desert heat, high temperatures, deep mud and water, winter snow packed and freezing temperatures. This 04 is hopefully the answer, as the wife upgraded her vehicle, so I inherited this one to develop. Just installed Yakima Roof Rack system with Mega Warrior Basket. Found a winch kit on line, which bolts to lower bumper. That's the next upgrade.

Another foot note:
1. I have tried with a 98 Range Rover 50th Edition and eventually gave up due to repair cost at 198K. It's on the side of my drive way awaiting part sales and then eventually dumping it. Dumped allot into it over the many years of ownership, and then it became cost prohibitive to go any further. It has a major electrical issues, caused by a blown heater core, flooding the entire from floor panel and it's never been the same after changing out damaged electrical modules. :mad:[emoji2959]
2. I also tried with a 98 Disco 11 and eventually became cost probative over the years as well. Sold. [emoji35][emoji2959]

The are well made, can do everything they're designed for and made to do, great rides, beautiful vehicles. Over engineered, as are most European brands. If you can afford it, continue to sort it out, you will be pleased if you keep it. If you cannot afford the repairs, cut it loose and count your losses... because more issues are on the horizon.

Just my $0.02 ... :unsure:
Got a humming sound that started seemingly overnight? Does it change with RPM, mine does. Sounds like a supercharger whine about an octave lower. I’d call it a hum at idle, yeah.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#10 ·
Without even seeing the vehicle I’d put money on a damaged PCV causing the tailpipe smoke. This is a VERY common failure item on the BMW 4.4 engine, while I haven’t really heard of valve stem seal failures on this particular motor. You may also have a clogged oil seperator. The extra pressure in the system due to the clogged seperator may also contributing to your rear main seal leak.
 
#14 ·
I'm agreeing with this post from BillConn. I drove my 2004 up to Colorado, 2 years from New Mexico for the Pikes Peak Hill Climb weekend. Upon arriving in Colorado Springs, sopped to fill up, then noticed smoke 'bellowing' from the exhaust and the engine 'rattled' and sounded like engine failure was imminent. Pulled into a Porsche aftermarket shop who was prepping cars for the Hill Climb, asking for help with a diagnosis thought. Very friendly group of guys. They put the Range Rover on a lift and after a look over they thought the noise was transmission related. I had just rebuilt the transmission was this not a good feeling. They recommend I go to the dealer up the hill in Colorado Springs. Who wants to go to a Range Rover dealer with a broken Range Rover, 400 miles from home, on a vacation weekend. The dealer agreed to a free diagnosis and after 3 hrs came back and said they don't know what it could be. Seriously? I ended up leaving the vehicle with them and had it towed back to New Mexico the following weekend. Nobody in their right mind would attempt to drive it 400 miles home. Upon return, I had it taken to the transmission shop as I had a good warranty with a local shop. After they tore it down and examined the transmission, everything transmission related was good. Had it towed home and after allot of reading and discussions, change the PCV and it fixed the smoking issue. Further discussion with others lead us with a consensus that the 'rattling' was just pressure build up inside the engine. It has run since until the timing chain needing addressing.
 
#11 ·
bet you need an intake refresh, the oil leak is probably the oil return to the dipstick tube its usually a swollen hose thats leaking coming off the PVC plate.
all the parts come from Rock auto buy the valley plate as well, about 90.00 for the plate
NOTE dont think your going to just put a bead of sealant around and it will seal,
many have tried most get to remove the intake again and install a new plate with the factory applied sealant.
figure about 1200.00 in parts and powder coating ,
the cam covers should be powder coated,
get them grit blasted so the new gaskets will seal.
 
#15 ·
Christ this thread is a mess
It's definitely the PCV valve, go with OE or you'll be replacing it again very soon, also check the PCV tubes on top of the rear of the motor.

No need to remove the intake and spend $1200 in this case, or take off the cam covers, or any of this. Just replace any PCV system components with a good Land Rover/BMW part.
 
#18 ·
**** off EE
It's a $100 fix for everything.
Tired of you telling folks to sell their Range Rover on a Range Rover board..makes no sense.


You don't even own a Land Rover. Every car I've ever talked bad on I've owned, unlike you. Go get a job and buy one for yourself if you want to talk bad about it.

It's not even entertaining to see your posts any longer.
 
#19 ·
So.....I love the L322...except all the issues :)

4.4L BMW V8...

Owned this one only about 6 months.

Started puffing smoke out of exhaust at startup. A few times while driving as well. (Mechanic said valve stem seals and doesn't have tools for it, quoted 30 hours labor approx).....$2,800 USD

Also getting a P705 Range Position trans sensor once in a while code

getting a loud squeal noise after decelerating and idle after 10-15 minutes running vehicle....which only stops after cooling down and shutting down for 30+ minutes.

I bought the truck for $4,200 so not a ton but still a good amount to me. Probably could dump it with all the issues for $2,500? But it is low miles and I like it.... only 112k miles 2003.

Also rear main seal has an oil leak.

I put in Lucas oil stop leak, and valve restore additives..no change.

What would you do in my situation (not that handy mechanically)


Dave
Florida USA
L322 2003 4.4L
My advise to you is to get rid of that car , you have taken on a project much larger than you can handle mostly because you are not mechanically savvy and dont have the money to keep up with what it is about to throw at you. You wont be in love with l322 for long if you are not a hands on kind of guy because the alternative is you will watch as your funds move out of your bank to your mechanics. Get rid of it. Its not for you
 
#20 ·
Not you too.

Any good BMW mechanic can easily diagnose this issue due to the fact IT HAPPENS TO EVERY M62TU!! IT'S COMMON!

Valve stems are an N62/N63 issue. Crankcase is over pressurized causing leaks and smoke. Like any car with a failed PCV valve outside of select motors such as the Audi hot-v 4.0.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I am looking at his bigger picture buddy..... 112k he is not mechanically savvy and appears to be a mega penny pincher.. It just doesnt add up for him to keep the car.

AS YOU KNOW to own on of these you need one of two vey important qualities , either you are technically inclined and can solve the issues that pop up yourself or you have a fat wallet and the parts plus mechanics fees will slim it down for you.

That is what i am looking at , Im not saying the issues are unfixable... the guy bought the car while being DOE eyed... in love with it not knowing the back end of the deal...and he does not seem to have the mechanical expertise nor the money to sustain his love affair
 
#26 ·
Back to the OP, according to your math and the likelyhood that this fix is the PCV and a water pump, even paying a mechanic to do this is worth it ($4,200 - $2,500). So either way, DIY or decent independant, its worth it. After that, its up to you. At this mileage and age, you will have some upcoming maintenance. For your investment, its a whole lot of nice car and if you can afford to maintain it, it will be be nice for years to come. If you are hoping to drive it for 50k more miles with nothing needed, probably not likely.
 
#29 ·
What Keralis is trying to explain is that a clogged PCV will not allow the crankcase to vent. Pressure has to go somewhere so it finding the path of least resistance. Multiple oil leaks in unrelated areas point to the PCV. Any mechanic who doesn't check the PCV first isn't someone you should be using. On this engine, the PCV is a common maintenance item. This isn't a repair, its maintenance.
 
#31 ·
So.....I love the L322...except all the issues :)

4.4L BMW V8...

Owned this one only about 6 months.

Started puffing smoke out of exhaust at startup. A few times while driving as well. (Mechanic said valve stem seals and doesn't have tools for it, quoted 30 hours labor approx).....$2,800 USD

Also getting a P705 Range Position trans sensor once in a while code

getting a loud squeal noise after decelerating and idle after 10-15 minutes running vehicle....which only stops after cooling down and shutting down for 30+ minutes.

I bought the truck for $4,200 so not a ton but still a good amount to me. Probably could dump it with all the issues for $2,500? But it is low miles and I like it.... only 112k miles 2003.

Also rear main seal has an oil leak.

I put in Lucas oil stop leak, and valve restore additives..no change.

What would you do in my situation (not that handy mechanically)


Dave
Florida USA
L322 2003 4.4L
Dave i would honestly dump that vehicle now because your going to find yourself dishing out a ton of money on repairs. Like you, i had a 2008 rover hse brought in 2015 and sold it this past January. Im a guy who takes pride in keeping up the maintenance on my vehicles. When i brought the truck my intention was not for it to be my primary vehicle. My main vehicle went down ( 01 ford expedition) and that's where all the problems started. To make a long story short , i pulled all my receipts of the maintenance i had done on it and it total around $9100 with the biggest item being the transmission smh. My 01 ford expedition which i purchased in 04 broke down on me in 2019. It had 430,000 miles with original everything and the only major problem i had with it was the intake manifold cracked. The rovers look and drive great but they are pretty lemons with a lot of hype. A owner of a dealer told me rich people buy and drive them until the warranty runs out and then they get rid of them. Run while you can David
 
#32 · (Edited)
I wasn't going to post since you are obviously spoiling for an argument by posting something like this on a RR forum. But I'll take the bait. I would guess in reality, you are really a guy who prides himself on doing very little maintenance and getting away with it. Take your biggest problem, the ZF transmission on your '08. One of the most commonly used transmission on dozens of European cars. The often go out somewhere between 100k and 200k depending on the power and weight of the car. And of course how they are driven. A RR is probably on the higher wear side because its heavy with a strong V8. If it was driven like a dragster its whole life and never had a fluid and filter change, you can expect on the shorter side. So your Ford had a crappy performing transmission that never did work well but just kept wearing and never actually biting it altogether. If that's what you want, then by all means go back to Ford.
 
#40 ·
So many idiotic replies, with so few actually addressing the OP's question
WTF does a 5.0 have to do with anything here? Different BMW engines? Ugh
And for the Debbie Downer brigade, just go back to your corners and pretend your Chevy/Ford/etc are all perfect. 'Tards are just spoiling for an internet fight

OP, swap out the PCV system yourself and go enjoy it. You'll never know how to work on it if you dont try. I do agree you need a different shop though, as that 30hr job is what book time is....On an above mentioned 5.0! They gave you every reason to NOT take it to them, for a reason. They don't know what they are doing, and dont want to learn. Which is fine

Where are you in the country? I dare say there are a few of us with a brain that would do the PCV for you, just to prove the 'tard brigade wrong.....
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top