RangeRovers.net Forum banner

21 - 31 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
2000 Range Rover HSE
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Thanks for the suggestions. Out of strange coincidence, I bought an EAS kicker yesterday and needed it for the first time since owning the car for 5 years! I also swapped out the EAS timer for a 4-pin relay. It seems like it doesn't self-level while driving and will also raise or lower when the door is open. I'm calling Lucky8 tomorrow, but I don't think that there is any other alternative than cutting my rear sensor arms and welding or epoxying an inch or so of metal in the middle of them. I'm going to add 15 bits to the rear and 20 to the front (with the EAS timer reinstalled) to see how close I am to needing to mess with the sensors and brake lines and longer shocks in the rear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,550 Posts
Why did you buy the Kicker when the EASUnlock software does everything that does and far more? You'll need the software to reprogram the heights anyway.
 

·
Registered
2000 Range Rover HSE
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
I bought the Kicker because I wanted it to be easy for my wife to reset the EAS if it ever failed, which was strangely the first time ever just hours after I got it in the mail. Also, I didn't have a reliable tablet or laptop to run the EAS software to store in the glovebox. I tried a windows tablet and had no success, no matter the port. I have used different laptops supplied through work, but I can't keep them in the glovebox. By the way, I am thinking of putting the EAS timer 5-pin relay back in. The 4-pin did stop the self-leveling, killing the battery, and turning a minor leak into one corner into the whole car on its axle after a few days. I will probably put in a toggle switch to the purple/orange (5th pin) and mount it under the seat so that I can leave it on except when parked for a few days or I could also only turn it on when wanting to mess with the EAS software. It might be my imagination, but the self-leveling was nice while driving; if I had it on high and got up to 35mph on a slanted road, it seemed to be a bit off kilter until I hit the rocker switch to another level.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,257 Posts
The 4-pin relay will not stop self-leveling when the engine is running, only with ignition off. It can have on behaviour with the doors open, though that signal also goes to the EAS ECU.
 

·
Registered
2000 Range Rover HSE
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
I guess it makes sense then to put back in the original 5-pin relay and put a rocker switch on the black/pink wire, leaving it off unless I want to use the EASunlock or Kicker?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,550 Posts
If you leave it off, the EAS won't work at all as it will have no power to the system.
 

·
Registered
2000 Range Rover HSE
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
I thought that putting in the 4-pin eliminates one of the wires (maybe I got the wrong color), but I guess I have it all wrong. Is it the purple/orange wire (pin #5), then that I need to cut and put the rocker switch to so that I can disable self-leveling and have it essentially act as the 4-pin relay......or am I just completely misunderstanding the relay setup and that it can't be done?

I just noticed that my EAS relay has a 6th pin that is smaller than the other 5 and runs nothing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,550 Posts
Power goes to the relay on the Purple/Red wire and that starts the timer that kicks in every few hours and applies power on the Grey/Green wire to self level the car when parked. That is the one you would need to put a switch in if you want to turn off the self leveling when it is left. The timer relay will still operate but it won't be doing anything. So if you put a switch in either the Grey/Green or Purple/Red, the EAS won't work when the car is running, it will cut power to the EAS ECU all the time it is off. The Purple/Orange is the feed from the BeCM to the EAS system and it is this one that disables any change of height when a door is open and will probably also stop it dropping to Highway height after more than 30 seconds at over 50mph (and rising back up to normal after 30 seconds at under 35mph). Although breaking it at the timer relay doesn't disconnect it from the ECU, it only disconnects it from the timer relay. Although nobody has mentioned it, I suspect this is what inhibits EAS movement while the brake pedal is pressed but allows it after 3 minutes.

By swapping the 6 pin timer relay (not 5 pin, it is a relay incorporating other electronics) for a 4 pin all you are doing (in addition to disconnecting the diagnostic connection) is allowing the relay to only operate when the ignition is on. So when off, no power to the EAS ECU, when on, it is powered up and things work as normal (except possibly the exception mentioned above), so it will still drop to Highway at speed and rise back up as you slow down. If you have no leaks, then the self levelling won't have any adverse affect and the car will remain at the height it was left at. If self levelling causes it to drop to the bumpstops when left you have a leak which needs to be fixed before you wear the compressor out by causing it to work too hard. Swapping for a 4 pin is a useful diagnostic to identify which corner has a slow leak but it can cause other odd problems so it's just better to leave it as it was meant to be. It won't cause a battery to discharge as all it does is open solenoid valves on the 3 highest corners, it doesn't cause the compressor to run and draw a lot of power.

If in High, whether reprogrammed to make it sit higher or not, it will drop back to Normal as soon as you reach 35mph as a safety feature as the centre of gravity is that much higher making it unstable at speed.
 

·
Registered
2000 Range Rover HSE
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
So theoretically, if the purple/orange is switched off while the car is sitting, it will not self-level. If it is switched off while the car is running, it will operate normally. I will only need to switch it on if I want self-leveling or to hook it up to EAS unlock? Very sorry to be so repetitive, but I am still learning....a lot, and I appreciate your patient and thorough replies!
 

·
Registered
2000 Range Rover HSE
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
So I cut the middle pin (number 5) and put a rocker switch mounted under the seat. It seems to stop the self-leveling and still raises and lowers the vehicle. I'm planning on keeping it switched off unless I need to use the EASunlock software. I attached pictures of my vehicle. I'm not sure where else is a good place. It's a 7-seater with an articulating ladder attached to a Chevy suburban roof rack and lots of other modifications and repairs.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
2000 Range Rover HSE
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
In case someone is checking on the success of my wiring, it works perfectly. I have the original EAS timer relay in place. I just cut the wire going to the middle (pin #5) and wired a toggle switch under the seat. I leave the switch off all the time, and everything works great. It still raises and lowers like normal. If I need to use EAS software, I just need to toggle the switch on.
 
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
Top