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2000 Range Rover HSE
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Discussion Starter #1
I have searched everywhere on this forum but cannot find how to wire up a switch of some sort to force the EAS to go into extended mode. I've found out that it has something to do with wire/pin #42 and #1? I do not take it off road. I just think it looks cool parked in my drive with it raised up that high. I have Arnott 3's that are knockoffs from ebay and are 4 years old. My system works fine except (I know I'm kinda bringing up 2 issues) the passenger front shock lowers down to access when it is really cold. If I try to raise the car, only 3 corners go up. In warm weather, it works fine (except that corner is about 1" lower than the others). Any ideas on either problem? For the lower corner, I'm thinking valve block or sensor? As it only leaks in the cold (below 40 degrees F), I haven't been able to spray soapy solution to find the leak. With the corner sag, it has caused the car to go into extended mode when I go to the highest setting, which is why I wanted to find a way to get it there after I fix the sag.
 

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If you don't actually use it offroad, just reprogram the offroad setting to be a bit higher for posing purposes. I'm not aware of any easy way to force the system into extended mode.
Filip
 

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First fix the leak because it will be putting unnecessary load on the pump each day.. You know it's front passenger, so replace seals on air-bag and where the air-line enters the block.

Next read the LR EAS System Info Document. This explains how extended mode is triggered, so you can figure out the options, and why although it's possible, there's no easy method. (I posted the method on Landyzone a while back)

Finally just do what Escape suggested !!
 

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2000 Range Rover HSE
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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the quick responses. Do I need to rebuild the block or just depressurize the system and replace the seals on the airbag and the seal where that airline enters the block?

Do you mind reposting the method from Lndyzone? I looked everywhere. I know it may be difficult, but I'm pretty good at creative wiring. I'm currently Adding a momentary switch to the driver's door panel so that the occasional engine disable/lockout can be reset with the push of the button, as I don't have a remote.

Thank you both! I will soon post updated pics of my vehicle. It has different mods, including a rear ladder that folds with the opening of the tailgate and rear jump seats in place of the spare.
 

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As Filip suggested, but watch out that there is a range of valid data for the High ride setting - if you set heights outside the range EAS will give you a fault. High it looks for 105-150 and front 120-180 (LR EAS System Info Doc)
 

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From the EAS System Info Doc ...........................

AUTOMATIC HEIGHT SELECTION
The system will default to extended ride height if the system is unable to lower a sensor’s bit
count for any ten-second period, indicating the vehicle is “high centered”. A flashing high
profile lamp will indicate extended ride height. The system will stay in this mode for ten
minutes or until the operator manually requests a lower ride height. The system could also
drop to standard if the vehicle speed exceeds 35 mph.

So the only way to do it other than changing ECU values to their max, is to fool the ECU into thinking it cannot lower !! However this method is likely to trigger other faults.
  1. Interrupting sensor lines will trigger the mode after 10 seconds, but then the ECU still needs the sensor values to raise to extended height.
  2. Interrupting the valve solenoid lines could also fool the ECU into selecting extended mode, but then it cannot raise the car.
So you need to figure out how to fool the ECU for 11 seconds, and then allow the ECU to do its stuff !! Any longer and the ECU will sense a fault because it cannot raise to extended. It all depends how long the ECU takes to make decisions. It could be within the 10-11 second window ??

Accept the car as designed . . . . much better option.

BTW, there is no pin-42 on the ECU. It's a 35 pin connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is all great information. I just finished wiring my engine lockout switch, and it works great. On the suspension, from what I am reading, I can cut into one of the sensor wires and place a momentary switch that runs into the cabin? Hold the button for 10 seconds? I know leaving it alone is the best option, but this is keeping me busy, and it's a fun car to tinker with. By the way, each time I spray the block and air lines with soapy water, it seals the leaks. It must be a slow leak. I am going to put a 4-pin relay in place of the timer relay so that it stops self-leveling. Sorry to put so much in a response!
 

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Why not just reprogramme the heights for High setting? Then when you want it to sit high all you do is poke the rocker switch to send it to high. If you leave the standard and Motorway heights as they are, it will still be drivable as normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I thought about that, but if I program it for a higher setting and then the extended is triggered for some reason, won't that overextend the sensors or wires or brake lines and cause a fault and put me on bumpstops?
 

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No because the shocks won't allow it to go any higher. It would be no different to jacking it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you all for your advice thus far. My concern is that Romanrob mentioned that the EAS maxes out at is 150 and 180 (rear and front). Will I even be getting into the extended range with those values? It seems easy enough to cut into one of the sensor wires (not sure which) and place a momentary switch that runs into the cabin and hold the button for 10 seconds? Also, I have newer Arnott 3's and factory shocks. Should I switch shocks for the extra travel?
 

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EAS will max out at under 180 when the shocks reach their fully extended so can never get to that anyway but this is only when you are storing the numbers for the heights. I'm not sure how you think you can achieve what you want to do anyway. You've got 4 height sensors so to force it into extended mode you would need to alter the readings from all four so it thinks it is beached. That's the only time extended is used, the the body is resting on something and the wheels aren't supporting the weight, it extends the suspension to lift the body clear of whatever it is sitting on. But even then, as pointed out, it only raises it for 10 seconds, if it can't drive itself clear in that time you are stuck.

To take full advantage of the Gen 3s you do need longer shocks but you also need to extend the arms on the height sensors and fit longer brake hoses.

Have a look at the current height settings. You'll probably find that the readings for high are in the 140-150 range. If all you want is to use it for posing purposes, just add 10 to each setting but leave the other heights as they are. That way, when you press the rocker switch to send it to high, it will go to the height you have set. You wouldn't want to try to drive it like that, it'll feel like it is about to fall over, and it will automatically drop to standard when you reach 35 mph anyway.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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There was a fellow on this board, I think, that had a method whereby he used a 1.5v battery and rheostat wired into the pink wire on the EAS control module under the seat so that it basically subtracted that voltage from the input to the controller making it think the sensors were lower down than called for so it raised the suspension. I was going to do that and made up the box with switch but then I just used the RSW Solutions software to reset my heights so my raised height is plenty high enough for me when off-roading. I guess you could drive around town at that height OK but not on the highway. I bought the software, cable and USB to Serial converter from eBay for something like $60.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you all for your tips. I thought only one sensor needed to be triggered. It sounds like from Gordo51 that I would have to trigger the common line to them at the plug and that it would not stay up for very long anyways.

Later this week I am going to swap out the timer relay to stop the auto-leveling and raise the settings with the RSW program. I'll see where that gets me. Maybe longer shocks (putting rear in front and getting newer longer rears), sensor arms, and brake hoses. When it was put into extended by some fault, the wheel arches were a good 15-20 cm above the tires. It made the nerf bars necessary and looked good. I guess adding 10 to each setting will equate to a few cm?

I've never joined a forum. This is very helpful. I'll have to post some pics of my Rover. It has a lot of unusual work done to it (jump seats in the trunk, snorkel, pitch/roll gauge, winch, roof rack, fender flares, defender vents, etc.) I'm sure not everyone likes it, but it makes it unique. A P38 is already unusual. I usually see one a month here....maybe.
 

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You have got it the wrong way round. Front shocks have a longer travel than the rear shocks. A cheap solution is to fit front shocks all round to allow the higher lift.
Only the rear sensor arms need to be altered. The fronts are OK as is.
Either fit +2" hoses all round or else lower the brake hose brackets.
 

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Just a note on the RSW software. You can only alter and save the height settings for one level at a time, for example, off-road height.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I am glad you mentioned the one level at a time with the RSW. That explains why it didn't take years ago. I changed all the levels just a tad, followed by an EAS fault and me thinking I destroyed it after just having added new springs and shocks all around. I'll order the front shocks for the rear and look up how to lower the brake hose bracket and alter the rear sensor arms in the near future. I gave up on the lift after that scare, but you all have given me the confidence to give it another shot. I'm going to get a bike pump and a set of 6MM to shraders just in case. Thank you! I'll post pictures of my ride later this week. I guess I would just attach them to this thread.
 

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I think a bike pump would be a lot of work. Just get a 12v tire inflator unit, If you go offroad you should lower your tire pressure to around 20 psi and then use the inflator to pump them back up again,
 

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Look up “Proud Rhino Lift Rods” on eBay . They replace your lift height sensor rods to allow your truck to think it needs to pump up higher . They are about $80 . I have been wanting to put them on my L322 .
 
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