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Discussion Starter #1
I have been hunting for info on the pinouts/voltages for a 10 pin LH wing mirror to see if I can actuate the motors directly. I have 2 spare mirrors with I good gear rack on each. I am trying to find a way to remove the rack to repair one of the mirrors. I have dismantled as far as the thing allows but without rotating the motor I cant get the darn bit out without the possibility of breaking it. So I was thinking of powering the motor and driving it out and driving it back in to the repair unit. Or maybe there is a trick in removing the rack without doing this.

Cheers

Chris
 

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Hi Chris, as far as I can read the scheme it is connector C0319L powered by the door outstation.
on position 5 and 3 are the yellow and red wire for left and right movement
on position 2 and 4 are the grey and blue wire for up and down movement.
The outstation / switchpack provides polarity for these two pairs of wires (according to drawing).
Leaves the question is it 12V it works on, I think so.
Tony.
 

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Leaves the question is it 12V it works on, I think so.
Tony.
Probably the easiest way to find out is to stick a meter on the pins of one in-situ on the car, drive the mirror and see what the voltage is?
 

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That's the obvious way to find out but I had a feeling Chris wasn't able to get power to the connector, for whatever reason and therefore needed to manually power the mirror.
Of course we can put a probe in our working mirrors...
 

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Assuming I remember by the time I get to workshop, I'll pop the trim panel off of mine and check the voltage.
 

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It's, drum roll......
12V
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Many thanks, I can now dig in and see if I can repair it. If I get the old rack out I am going to make some spares from aluminium, the plastic idea is too breakable. I might see about investing in a 3d metal printer there are a lot of other little bits I can make then! My previous engineering life may come in handy again :)

Cheers

Chris
 

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A 3D metal printer would be a wonderous thing, but I'm not sure it's been invented yet :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi Orange,
There are a few out there though price wise they can be a tad expensive, having said that there are a few small ones that are reasonably priced. I have a few projects ongoing that may make it worthwhile getting one
 

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Cheez- I'm behind the times. Pretty informed when it comes to plastic 3D printers etc, but assumed that due to the heat required (high powered lazer?), metal ones hadn't gone past the research stage.
Ah well, live and learn. A domestic (ish) one would be a truly great toy to have.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hmm, just found a company that produces bronze and copper filaments that will work on most 3d printers, that may do the trick ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi Ferryman and Orange, a bit of an update, the pinouts you gave are spot on. The plan about driving the old broken rack out and the replacement back in works perfectly, the mirror now does what it says on the box, up/down, left and right. Fully functional once more :)
 

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That's good to hear.What did you do, renew the glass? I have to take mine apart as they have a dead heater, my worries are the brittle plastic ring. What is the best way to take them apart?
Thanks, Tony.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi Tony,
The glass was fine in both my spare mirrors, only the gear racks were damaged. I managed to get the mirrors on both out fairly easily. First tilt the mirror in towards the car then put your fingers into the gap on the inside closest to the car, pull gently outwards and with the other hand pull gently away from the wing mirror body. My plastic clips stayed ok on both, you can buy replacements cheaply though if they do get damaged. try this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GR-_jsmOLc
Let me know if the link doesn't work

Cheers

Chris
https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Oh, one thing, in the video he manages somehow to push the mirror in, in mine the gearing doesn't allow me to do that, this is how some of the racks get broken!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Oh, and another thing, if anyone else follows this post regarding the rack, you firstly drive the rack out as far as it will go and pop out the ball joint that holds it there. The rack is limited in travel by the motor drive by 1 tooth so I had to tug it out. When putting the replacement in drive the motor and rack fully in until it stops and then pop the ball in, a bit fiddly but no problem.
 

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Thanks Chris, I'll give it a try when weather improves.
 
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