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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I have some water coming in during rain or car washes. The leak is at the very top around the area of the rear view mirror. I took a look and the black trim piece is in place but seems to be not as flush as it could be. The windshield is in otherwise great condition but being the car is a 2001 I'm sure it has been replaced at some point. I suppose I could get some silicone sealer in the gap to see if that would work but I don't know if that would complicate doing a proper fix. I'm guessing that trim needs to be removed and some sort of gasket sits between that and the windshield? I don't want to play with removing the trim so I'm not sure if this is body shop work or windshield shop. I would think the latter is more interested in replacing glass than chasing leaks with hard to obtain parts?

I tried attaching a picture but the "Manage Attachments" window opens but has no content. :oops:
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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A favourite is when you remove the trim, at the end of the roof rack rails there’s a really bad joint, which LR used to plonk a blob of silicon, it’s been known to fail as it gets older, the top trim is on plastic clips, push through type, might be worth ordering some first, before you pull the trim off.
 

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A favourite is when you remove the trim, at the end of the roof rack rails there’s a really bad joint, which LR used to plonk a blob of silicon, it’s been known to fail as it gets older, the top trim is on plastic clips, push through type, might be worth ordering some first, before you pull the trim off.
Could you provide a bit more detail on this? My wife’s just started a small leak that had water come out of the overhead light and around the passenger side grab handle above. I don’t think it’s the sunroof drains, and based on it being at the side, this joint sounds like a winner.
 

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remove the two front to rear trim pieces on the roof, they just snap in place. Easiest way to get started is the open the front roof rack mount "door" stick your finger in and pull straight up. The nearest clamps will release. sliding your fingers down each side of the trim piece work your way to the hatch. Clean the area that has been covered. Inspect the roof seam full length. A heat cured PVC Plastisol sealant was used during assembly. In some climates this can dry out, crack and fall away. If you are missing any take plastic putty knife or pry tool and make sure that the sealant around the missing section is not loose or failing. I use Henry Wet Patch 209XR in a caulking tube to reseal. It is a rubberized sealant that never dries out and remains flexible. It can be found at your local Home Depot in the roofing section.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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We’ve come across it behind the top windscreen trim, gently ease it off and you can salvage the clips your see the ends of the roof rack rails where we’ve had a failed joint.
I’m still at a loss as to why the joint wasn’t welded shut !.
 

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Too close the the windscreen lip which has to be very even around the full perimeter. The heat cured PVC is used at the bottom of the wind screen as well. Actually it used in quite a few places. The material used is ahigh-temperature, heat cured, nitrile phenolic which serves both to bond two metal surfaces and also to seal the joint against ingress of dust, water, petrol and fumes.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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About two years ago I went through this same issue with multiple leaks. I pulled all the trim and tried to reseal with a rubberized sealant. It worked until the next heavy rain. Ultimately, I cured the leaking issue by replacing the entire windshield. If you go my route, make sure you replace with a LR OE windshield.
 
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