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Discussion Starter #1
Having read the repair tips for intermittent switches,i thought i would tackle mine but,
Do i need to disconnect the battery before unplugging the switchpack or when plugging it back in??.
Every time i disconnect the battery some gremlin rears it's ugly head:roll:
 

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Common sense says yes, you should always disconnect the battery so you don't short something out between a live feed and the hand brake assembly under the switch pack. only "gremlin" you should have is the possible need to reset windows and radio stations
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Changed the battery recently and the buttons stoped working on the key fobs.(Had to put key in lock and re-sync)
Never checked the radio till a week after and guess what it was dead.
And it's a pain to set the windows when one of the up buttons does not work so have to plug the lynx kit in to set the window.
The list goes on and on.
Never mind i will disconnect the battery as you say.:???:
Just thought it might be ok with the ignition off.
 

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It's a plug in job so no danger of shorting anything. I didn't even disconnect the battery when I took my engine out.......
 

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Ignition off does nothing for live feeds only ignition feeds
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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As RichardG says, and you cannot short out any wires. I have removed and replaced my window switch it packs several times without disconnecting the battery with no ill effects. I always hate trying to re-set my sunroof after a battery disconnect
 

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Yeah, no need to disconnect the battery, it's just a plug and not much live in the area.

How you can take out an engine without disconnecting the battery is beyond me though. What about the big cables to alternator and starter? Disconnect and tape up while live??

Filip
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As RichardG says, and you cannot short out any wires. I have removed and replaced my window switch it packs several times without disconnecting the battery with no ill effects. I always hate trying to re-set my sunroof after a battery disconnect
Ah Music to my ears,Thank you.`)
Just did not want to unplug/plug while live in case it damaged the switchpack.
And the sunroof is turned off using my lynx kit so no re-set of the sunroof needed.
Bloody thing only leaks anyway.:x
 

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How you can take out an engine without disconnecting the battery is beyond me though. What about the big cables to alternator and starter? Disconnect and tape up while live??
Yup, that's right. Disconnect with an insulated ratchet handle and put a piece of heater hose over the ends held in place with tape. Tuck the insulated ends of the cables out of the way and with the battery still connected it's possible to lock the car remotely while in pieces and use the Nanocom to raise and lower the suspension as required. At work I sometimes have to work on 240V equipment while live so 12V is nothing to worry about.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Did you just swap in another pack or fix the old one? They are not simple switches so I would be interested if you fixed it.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Glad that is still helping people out!

I've since managed to actually source the dome switches, so any that I repair, I now just replace the switches instead of having to clean up the old ones :)

Good to see someone actually fixing something though, not just chucking it away!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Marty

Not sure if i managed to stick the little plastic bits on with the soldering iron though.
So if the switch comes loose i will have to resort to araldite.
But your sticky post was invaluable,Thank you.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Thanks for pointing out Marty's repair sticky. I was thinking more about the electronics on the board than the switches. Wonder how all that works? Seems like an overly complicated way to get windows to go up and down but that is the Land Rover way.
 

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But using electronics to monitor current draw is going to be far more reliable than fitting each door with limit switches to control the travel and even then you still don't have the feature that stops and reverses a window if you trap a finger in it. The electronics only ever fail when someone fills the switchpack with liquid, the only failure is the mechanical bits, the switches, not the electronics.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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But using electronics to monitor current draw is going to be far more reliable than fitting each door with limit switches to control the travel and even then you still don't have the feature that stops and reverses a window if you trap a finger in it. The electronics only ever fail when someone fills the switchpack with liquid, the only failure is the mechanical bits, the switches, not the electronics.
Ish - they can get moisture buildup on the boards, and if the whole switchpack stops working rather than just one or 2 switches, then chances are there's a fault on the PCB. Generally not components luckily as they're mostly SMD, but tracks on the board can get corroded through, which are a pain to fix, but are repairable if you want to get into that much nitty gritty and soldering tiny bits of wire.

The easy way to tell if it's switches or the board - if the mirrors still work, then it's switches, if they don't work then chances are it's a board problem. The switches for the mirrors are IP rated microswitches - unlike the dome switches on the PCB for the window buttons.

Being as the communication from the window switchpack to the BECM is done on a serial link, if any of the tracks used in the serial link are damaged on the PCB (there are 5-10 places I've found issues on various switchpack boards I've successfully repaired) then the whole thing stops communicating.

I think in maybe 25-30 switchpacks I've had here for repair at various times, only 2/3 of them have been unrepairable as there's too much damage to the PCB to make it worthwhile repairing - I may aswell join all the components with wire!
 
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