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window switch pack

28941 Views 35 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  GeorgeL
So, I left my sunroof tilted over night and it rained. Now none of the switches in the center console switch pack are operating anything. No windows, sunroof, or mirrors. It didn't look like the switch pack took any water, but there were little puddles in the cupholders.

The switches in the rear doors are not working either. I have no AC and i cant possibly drive this truck with the windows up :(

Anyone have a trick to diagnose if a new switch pack is needed? Being in the USA, I can't get one easily without shelling out $400 or waiting for several days on ebay. Don't want to do this to only find out that it's the BCM.

Thank you in advance for any replies.
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more investigation:

I read on another thread to check voltage at the switches. I took apart the switch pack and couldn't really see how to do this. I did notice that the light did work for the switches. The 8 pin (only 6 used) conector also had 11v on one wire and 5v to the three beside it (tested this unplugged from switch pack). The two wires in the row below these 4 had no power, but I know at least one should be a ground.

Here is the bad news. I got a little sizzle and a puff of smoke on the back side of the board behid one of the switches when I was poking around with the multimeter.

So I'm pretty sure that I need a new switch pack now. But anyone want to guess if this was the problem all along?
you sir, need the wiring diagram for the power windows.
i would "think" that it would blow a fuse before grenading the switch pack, it is what fuses are for after all... :thumb:
let me see if i can find the diagram on my alldata account real quick. if so i will post it here.

her ye go

if you need any more detailed diagrams shoot me a pm/email



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Thank you kind sir! That was more than generous and I'm sure I need that.

But now I am even more confused than ever :shock: Why does it have to be so freakin complicated?

Ughh...........I have no idea where to start!
well lets start with basics....
the diagram shows which becm pins supply power to the switch pack. so check there first. if all is good there, check to make sure the correct terminals are getting the SAME voltage as the pin on the becm.
if not, there is an issue between the two, or a bad ground at the switch pack. check ground first, then chase the voltage drop.
look at it logically and it makes sense, if i can figure it all out, anyone can :thumb:
a half decent multimeter will pay for itself ten fold over time.
if everything else checks out, try jumping the switch, now you know which connector does what. if it works when jumped, the switch is fried. if not, there are further issues. if the switch pack is indeed at fault, i feel you have nothing to lose by either taking it apart yourself to see if you can fix it, or taking it to an electrician to see if he can.
if the becm is indeed at fault, i would look into powering the switch pack from a different source myself. anything that could supply a switched 12v signal through a relay will suffice IMHO. that would need looking into though when the time comes, as i would want to see if that would effect anything else in the "system".

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Thanks again Martiin.....

Did you see my 2nd post? the one before your first one? I may have fried the switch pack myself :oops:
yeah i saw that mate.
a little smoke never hurt anything though.... :lol:
still run through the checks and see what the results are, those switch packs "should" be pretty robust, as they handle a fair amount of power going through them.

martin, I think I have the same problem on my 2002 rover. I have used the diagrams you posted to confirm that I am getting proper DC voltage to the window switch pack. I have also checked the internal regulator on the PCB and confirmed that it is providing a solid +5V to the microprocessor and other components on the PCB. I was wondering if you have any details on the INPUT/OUTPUT specs of the window switch pack itself in terms of how it communicates with the individual motors? What I'm confused about is that there are only 6 pins/wires used to connect the window switch pack to the vehicle. Of those 6 pins, 2 are used to provide voltage (+12 and ground). So this leaves only 4 pins to control 7 separate motors (4 windows, 1 sunroof, and 2 side mirrors). In order to troubleshoot further, I need to know, for example, what to expect on those 4 pins when I engage a window switch UP or DOWN. Any ideas? :think:
i dont have the time needed to review the wiring diagram, but i would guess the switch pack just sends power to the door out stations?
maybe someone else who has dealt more first hand with these chime in? is there just 1 feed from the switch pack to each of the out stations??

Had a customer a few weeks back, same thing, left sunroof open and it rained.
Switch pack swopped out for a good 2nd hand unit.

Incidentally if you can only get a non sunroof version it will work, with some basic hand tools know how its easy to
convert to allow for sunroof operation, on original switch pack the rocker switch is removed and installed onto the non
sunroof pack by removing dummy blank, the PC board is identical to each other and contains a IC for control of all window
Given that 2 of the six pins on the window switch pack are used for power and that there are only 4 pins available to control 7 separate motors, I can only guess that the IC on the window switch communicates with other IC's to tell them to go up and down and that they, in turn, power the actual motors. I would assume that there is some kind of communication bus (like RS-485) that connects everything together. I might be over thinking this but I'm curious if anyone knows the answer.
Havnt delved that deep into the full function of the IC, just done loads of swopping out due to the the exact same reasons that happened to you, seems IC is not liking water at all even though its mounted other side of PC board, it proberly keels over at the slightist wif of moisture....
I agree. At this point, I'm just curious to find out how things work. I've already come to terms with the fact that I'll need a new switch pack. I'm hoping my local dealer will be decent enough to try a new board without charging me a diagnostic fee.
Thanks to Dennis Altman (Shupak) for offering me a replacement window switch pack. Plugged it in and it worked right away. It's good to have fresh air again. :D
Atlantic British shows two different part numbers for RR P38 switch packs:

http://www.roverparts.com/Nxt/search.as ... witch+pack

I have a 2000 P38, so need the YUB100930LNFG one. However, found the other on ebay, from a 95 RR P38, for cheap, used, good. And it looks from the picture EXACTLY like the one I pulled from my 2000 RR.

Anyone know what the difference between the 2 parts is? I assume I cannot get away with using the one for older P38s in my 2000?
The most usual fault of BCM (switches pack) is caused by coroded contacts, here`s the example. The BCM stopped acting after rain (sunroof opened case). As it was mentioned in the early replies the clue is to check all the power supply lines using multimeter. I have two BCM, the one was under "catching rain" stuff the other one under working cond. The first one was lost the contact to the 2nd connector wire which leads to becm, the other one is working good but the corrosion is also has been starting so its a matter of time when it`ll loose the contact. Well to make it work again, just need to clean up all the dirt and corroded deposits, then insert the conductor to the contact hole and resolder it. Enclosing pics. Hope it`ll be usefull. p.s. I`ve heard that the same thing happens with the doors outstations sometimes... Best regards, Michael
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Here's the current status with my 2000 Range Rover 4.0 SE (USA) purchased two weeks ago - knowing full well that the windows/mirrors/sunroof were not working (rest of car is positively immaculate, with 118K miles). Brand new compressor and airbags. RR was amazingly cheap.

I'm about to purchase a new centre console window/sunroof/mirror switch pack from from Atlantic-British (roverparts.com), $285.

I would greatly appreciate it if some of you with experience on the subject would weigh in on my decision before I make the purchase.

I've already blown $50 on one that's not changed a thing (used on eBay - said "tested").

1. Window switches backlighting works.

2. I tested the six wires (in the 8-pin connector) that connects to the switch pack. With key in first position, I got 11ish volts next to the ground (for the lights), then got 12V and 5ish volts on the other three. This jives with Miket5's outputs.

3. I get the complete set of beeping messages in the dash for all four windows and sunroof NOT SET every time I shut the engine off.

What would you do?

Please reply here for the benefit of anyone else that's searching.

Thank you in advance for your help

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If you've already tried one change then I would hold fire on paying $285 for another until I was 100% positive it was the switchpack.
If you've already tried one change then I would hold fire on paying $285 for another until I was 100% positive it was the switchpack.
Have you worked through Marty's "how to" on window switchpack repair in Sticky's section?
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