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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The driver's window of my RoW (Spain) 1991 RRC gave up the ghost--it's stuck in the 'Up' position. I troubleshot the fuse, window switch, relay (it's a 2-door), etc., it appears to be the motor or connections to it. My manuals all say the regulator has to be detached from the window with it in the 'Down' position, tape window in up position, then remove regulator & motor. See picture, access to the regulator and motor is only possible with the regulator in the down position & the window taped in the up position. How am I supposed to get this d**n regulator & motor out with the window stuck in the up position? Others must have dealt with this, help....
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My DriverSide Regulator.jpg
 

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I have my door apart to fix my drivers side window regulator right now as well! However I have a 4 door. It can't be that different. But I've just had a look at pics of the 2 door regulators online and here's what I would do:
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Tape up the window with packing tape to stay in the up position.
Then - I would start with these bolts/screws in yellow - undo them.
Then undo your tape gently... it should all fall -- or be lowered -- down in the door together - the window glass with the regulator and motor attached... Be gentle... lower it down!!!
Then you should be able to unattach the bottom of the window from the regulator.
Move the now-unattached window back up and tape it again in the up position.
And maybe undo the motor from the regulator. (not sure if required or not on a 2 door)
And remove the regulator out the bottom hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I considered that option too, but am afraid the scissors action of the regulator will leave the window attach bolts still inaccessible even after lowering the regulator. It appears that is my only option, other than cutting an access opening in the inner door panel. That seems extreme, I don't think the designers would have left that as the only option...I'll give it a try. Thanks for the reply.
 

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Hey, happy and sad to see someone with the same issue. I also have a RoW 1991 from Spain and my passenger window has given up the ghost too. I have removed the bolts as nashvegas suggested and lowered the window. The bottom of the regulator is in fact visible through the bottom hole. Now I am trying to figure out the removal of the glass; on other RRC models the bracket unscrews but there aren't any screws on mine; so wondering whether it's just the glass that needs to be pulled out from the regulator.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for being one step ahead of me to show the way...! It's gotta be that the window glass comes out of the channel that holds it, or the channel detaches from the rest of the regulator. Maybe try moving the whole assembly up as far as you can and still have access to the channel, then tape the window to the window frame, then tug on the channel to see if it disconnects from the window glass. Or see if the channel somehow disconnects from the rest of the regulator. Pita problem we have.....

Where are you located? I'm in the Pacific Northwest.
 

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Gig Harbor, and you?

I did try to remove the glass from the channel with no luck, didn't push it too hard though. The channel looks pretty well attached to the regulator; metal plate welded between the 2. I also tried lifting the window up manually to see if the square plastic bushing might just slide out of the end of the channel which is open but no luck there either.

You mentioned a manual; I can't find anything other than the 4 door versions, where did you find it?

Rob
 

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So I tried a couple more things today; put wooden blocks under both ends of the glass so the channel was hanging free and gently tapped the channel with a screw driver and hammer; couldn't get it to budge at all. I also managed to remove the 2 screws holding the motor to the regulator but I can't get enough leverage inside the door panel to pry the motor off the regulator. Any luck your end?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Smokey Pt. here (north of Seattle).
The manuals I mentioned are all for USA RRCs, they don't show our RoW type of window. The US regulators & motors are more accessible. These RoWs are cool (is yours a factory 5sp. 2-door too?), but they are a pita parts & knowledge-wise imo. You're well ahead of me now. I had to put my Rangie on the back burner, as now is the time to sell my OBS 1995 F350 Powerstroke truck. Need to get that done soon, it needs a lot of cleaning up and a few minor repairs. Nice truck I'd like to keep, but too much stuff, not enough time....

If you do find a way through on the regulator, I'd appreciate your posting here about it, thanks. My AC doesn't work and it doesn't help that the driver window won't come down, now that summer is imminent.
 

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Instead of removing the window from the metal piece at the bottom, which is impossible in the door, tilt the regulator every which way and slide out the plastic wheel from the track (not sure which end, but it should just keep going out the end of the "track"it's in). See arrow. Or slide it out the other end.
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To do this, the regulator must be unbolted from the door as in my earlier post.
 

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I had the same thought and have spent a couple of hours trying that. Ive tried it with the with the window all the way up, all the way down and varying other positions. A Jeep friend says he thinks the whole upper frame needs to be removed; something I had to do with the vent window in other cars; I guess that is what you have to do with a CJ7. I’ll keep at it and see what perseverance gets me....
 

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I don't have the ultimate answer, but can confirm that the window comes out of the channel/rail at the bottom. Recently had to fix mine back in as I couldn't get them to stay in! They are supposed to have some sort of sealant/bonding in there to keep fixed. Perhaps the US version is stronger. Could try running a sharp blade down the bottom...
 

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Thanks for the suggestion, I have tried that but can’t get enough leverage on it while it’s inside the door. I’ve had a few people tell me the upper window frame needs to be removed in order to give the regulator enough movement to slide off the channel. I’ll be trying that once I receive my replacement motor to install it.
 

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So is demo considered half of the job? If so I am half way there! Having spent another hour or so trying to wrangle the regulator out as well as having spoken to a few people back in the UK I came to the conclusion that removing the entire window frame was the only way.....

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well-done, unfortunate the nuclear option was required. I will be doing it too--were there any tricks or pitfalls in taking the whole frame with window out?

I'll need to get a window motor too, where did you get yours? Did it have a part number on it? Past experience has been purchasing from UK or Oz to get parts for my RoW, perhaps window motors too.

Appreciate any advice now that you've made good progress.
 

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It wasn't too bad, another pair of hands always helps, but once you have the 6 screws and nuts removed it lifts up easily enough. Mine stuck a little at the top but otherwise you can leave the wing mirror in place and just disconnect the mirror wiring. As you lift it the regulator will slide off the channel, which leads to what is probably going to be the most challenging part putting it back together; as you will need to position the regulator arm in the right position for the guide to slide back into the channel; all of which takes place behind sheet metal; so I'll let you know how that goes.

I ordered from Famous Four in the UK, they also restore vehicles so have technical expertise as well as parts. I got it in under a week too.

My part numbers and pricing are below;

Part No.
Description
Qty.
Price
FF003845​
Electric Window Lift Motor - Right Hand Front - GA399973 to MA659910 - Range Rover 1986-95
1​
39.95​
FF003846​
Electric Window Lift Motor - Left Hand Front - GA399973 to MA659910 - Range Rover 1986-95
1​
39.95​
PARTS​
79.90​
CARRIAGE​
28.00​
TOTAL​
107.90​
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Many Thanks for making the job easier to do due to your experience with it. I hadn't heard of Famous Four before, have to look them up.

I'm wondering if now that you have control of window regulator position via the window switch, you can put the frame back in with window taped in up position, then slide regulator in and attach it to the window channel by moving the window (by hand) and regulator (with the switch) as needed. IOW, reassemble it per the (USA) shop manual, which says it can be done without having to remove the hole window frame....?
 

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That was my initial goal, but I wasn't able to maneuver the regulator to the point where it came off the channel.

The good news is that the re-assembly only took about an hour; but with another air of hands. One person held the window frame in place and the other used the window switch and a bit of juggling by hand to the get the slide back on the channel. Ended up being fairly easy; put the window all the way up and then tip the front post down so that you can position the slide onto the channel. In your case I think you should be able to just lift the frame it a few inches until the slide pulls out of the channel and not remove the frame entirely.

As you can see in the video my window does shudder a bit initially; not sure why but that's a battle for another day.....

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the tip. Wow, that's fast! My working (passenger, it's a 2-door)) window takes about 3 to 4 times longer for the same job. I thought they were all slow like that.

Spraying some silicone spray on the window guide felts may help with the shuddering.

I had a look at your YouTube channel and saw the leaking dripless stuffing box. Here's an article by a guy (well-known for excellence in the marine field) about dripless boxes:
 
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