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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2001 4.6 with 96,000 miles on the clock that will not crank. I was out running some errands yesterday with several starts and stops. At the last stop it will not crank at all. I used the nano to check sync, and the code in the BCM matches the ECU. There are no error messages on the message center and no faults in the Nano. In the last year I have replaced the fuse box, all battery cables, etc. The key fobs both work and have not lost sync. I checked the inertia switch and waited until the vehicle was stone cold to try a restart. Still nothing. The battery has a charge of 12.46 and will be replaced. I am leaning toward the starter solenoid, but have not had a friend handy yet to help with the testing.

As this is my daily driver and I need to get it going again ASAP, I thought I would ask you gents for a hand. `)

Any other thoughts?
 

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You can check if it is the starter solenoid by dropping a jump lead down the side of the engine and hooking it up to the starter motor terminal on the back of the solenoid (the one with the short link cable between starter and solenoid). Then touch the other end of the jump lead on the positive battery terminal. If the starter spins, it's the solenoid, if it doesn't, it's the starter. If the starter is OK so spins, if you turn the ignition on first, it will start.
 

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I have a 2001 4.6 with 96,000 miles on the clock that will not crank. I was out running some errands yesterday with several starts and stops. At the last stop it will not crank at all. I used the nano to check sync, and the code in the BCM matches the ECU. There are no error messages on the message center and no faults in the Nano. In the last year I have replaced the fuse box, all battery cables, etc. The key fobs both work and have not lost sync. I checked the inertia switch and waited until the vehicle was stone cold to try a restart. Still nothing. The battery has a charge of 12.46 and will be replaced. I am leaning toward the starter solenoid, but have not had a friend handy yet to help with the testing.

As this is my daily driver and I need to get it going again ASAP, I thought I would ask you gents for a hand. `)

Any other thoughts?
what are the best battery maintainer?? visit autofthings website to find out
The battery is 12.46V. I think it is not problem, you can check cable, terminal again.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have checked the starter and the solenoid and both are good. Checked the starter relay, and it tested good as well. Ran test A from section B1 of RAVE Starting and Charging, and failed. I then ran a wire from the solenoid to the positive terminal of the battery and it started and ran with the key in position II. Headed back out to run more test from RAVE.
 

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My p38 has not started around 5 times in the last 3 years. I had to wiggle the shifter and it started every time.
I am not sure why that happens.
 

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My p38 has not started around 5 times in the last 3 years. I had to wiggle the shifter and it started every time.
I am not sure why that happens.
"That happens" due to the fact that there is a safety switch attached to the shift mechanism that will not allow the engine to crank unless it is in Park Or Neutral....Yours want's some attention. It is either failing or loose....... Jiggling it just causes it to function.....It will not work one of these times....Obviously, it will be a dark and stormy night,8-0= and you will need to get somewhere in a hurry........
This is a really good example of one of those early warnings we get from our trucks telling us to fix a small inexpensive detail before it becomes a crisis!:thumb:
Ignore the warning at your peril!:naughty:
 

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You can check if it is the starter solenoid by dropping a jump lead down the side of the engine and hooking it up to the starter motor terminal on the back of the solenoid (the one with the short link cable between starter and solenoid). Then touch the other end of the jump lead on the positive battery terminal. If the starter spins, it's the solenoid, if it doesn't, it's the starter. If the starter is OK so spins, if you turn the ignition on first, it will start.
You don't even have to go to that much trouble. Just jump pins 30 and 87 on RL16, the SM relay. If fuse F40 is good and the starter is good it will turn. Key or no key. If the key is in position 2, it should start even if it is a sync problem. I got my dead for 3.5 years RR to start with the key this way when all it used to do was crank over and not fire. It looks like starting it this way re-synced the computer and it is good now. Check the fuse and relay. My other one turned out to be a bad/flaky fuse board. Swapped and all is good now, but replacement is on the short term to do list. Just a tip for the future.
 

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Range Rover P38 95-98 Neutral Safety XYZ Switch STC2944
Next time I am under I will check the switch.
 

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You don't even have to go to that much trouble. Just jump pins 30 and 87 on RL16, the SM relay.
That will work if it isn't the starter or solenoid but won't if either of those have died but it won't tell you if it is the starter or the solenoid. Using a jump lead on the output side of the solenoid will tell you if it is the solenoid or starter at fault.
 

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That will work if it isn't the starter or solenoid but won't if either of those have died but it won't tell you if it is the starter or the solenoid. Using a jump lead on the output side of the solenoid will tell you if it is the solenoid or starter at fault.
Yes it will test it the same way and using the cars electrics to do it, so it tests other things as well. It could be something else if it does not work, the fuse board in my case, but if those are good and the starter does not work, it is still most likely the starter. Just putting power to a starter is a bare minimum test to see if the starter is any good. It really needs to be bench tested and the output checked to see if it is still in spec to a new starter. A starter that just turns with power applied to it can still be bad and run slowly or draw too much current and blow fuses. I can do this test dressed in a suit and not get dirty and have another answer in the troubleshooting process.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I ran more test and RAVE is showing it is the fuse box. I replaced it with a new one right at two years ago, but it could have failed since then.


The prior post mention the shifter needing to be in a certain position for a NAS spec to crank. I have had it not want to shift out of park on startup three times in the last couple of weeks. With a bit of fiddling it has shifted when that has happened. It is not currently doing this though.


Do I need to dig into this fiurther before replacing the fuse box again?
 

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had the same problem once. The dash lights come on with the key but not crank. I started it by jumping the starter from the ignition wire to starter solenoid. that will get it running. I ended up finding an issue with the air compressor. The thermal switch was open. hence not eas either
 

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I ran more test and RAVE is showing it is the fuse box. I replaced it with a new one right at two years ago, but it could have failed since then.


The prior post mention the shifter needing to be in a certain position for a NAS spec to crank. I have had it not want to shift out of park on startup three times in the last couple of weeks. With a bit of fiddling it has shifted when that has happened. It is not currently doing this though.


Do I need to dig into this fiurther before replacing the fuse box again?

The problem of shifter not shifting out of P is most likely a separate issue than the issue mentioned by another poster. The cause is most likely the shift interlock solenoid dying. You'll want to tend to it sooner than later, as it will not heal itself. Eventually, frequency of failure increases and most likely strand you in a very bad way. In my experience, I could not shift out of park from middle of a drive thru at a fast food restaurant. That was not a fun experience. Remedy is easy and free, btw. Just fiddle around with the solenoid and you're done.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Only a Rover... I didn’t mention my air compressor blew up because I thought it was completely unrelated. The prior post reminded me of an old post by Shupack I read a while back mentioning this same issue.

I changed out the air compressor with a spare I had in the garage and gave it a new 40 amp fuse. When I reconnected the starter solenoid it will now start with the key.

Thanks to you all for your help!
 

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Good stuff... I usually ask people when they email me about issues with P38's if there are any other electrical issues with the vehicle, even if they seem totally irrelevant - for reasons like this! I guess LR used the same Maxi Fuse for the SM and EAS compressor as they figured they wouldn't be running at the same time!

Glad it was an easy fix!
 
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