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Discussion Starter #1
So, the weirdest thing, I had heat, nothing has changed, and now, no heat.

The temperature is all the way to hot, no matter what I try, it will not blow hot, just blows cold. Am I missing something???
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Im rethinkingthis, is the "A/Coff" button supposed to be pressed and the little light above it illuminated for the the heat to be on? :shock:
 

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No. The A/C off button does simply that. You can run the AC at the same time as heat and you'll still get warm air. This can be useful on humid spring, fall, or milder winter days where you have a build up of condensation on the inside of the windshield/windows; the AC dehumidifies the incoming air (that's why you have puddles under your car on humid summer days), the heater warms the air, and what the defroster blows onto the windshield is warm, dry air capable of absorbing large amounts of humidity so you can see where you're going more quickly (and w/o smearing all over the inside of the windshield).

P38's are known to quit blowing warm through the heater when the coolant level drops - not a good thing and the very first thing I'd run out and check. Do a search and you'll find threads.

If the coolant level is OK (warm motor, feel the temp of the heater hoses going into the firewall), it's likely a prob with the HEVAC control. Do you have the book symbol in your HEVAC display (open book w/ an ! ). The blend motors (temp control) are unlikely as only one side will fail first and you'll still have heat on the other. I'd check the coolant temp sensor (clipped to heater pipe just inside the firewall where you felt the temp of the heater hoses. Remove glovebox).

If you don't already, download RAVE and read up on the HEVAC control if you're going to do this yourself. And search the forum.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Stevemfr said:
P38's are known to quit blowing warm through the heater when the coolant level drops - not a good thing and the very first thing I'd run out and check. Do a search and you'll find threads.

This.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have the rave. Have been looking at it. Going to look at the coolant again, I didn't see where the "Low" mark was, but I know the level was about 1/3 (if you split the whole bottle top to bottom in 3 equal sections).
I believe the shop it was at may have had to remove the rad to do some unrelated work, maybe they didn't put enough coolant since right prior to dropping it off, the heat worked.
My LCD display is kinda faded (gonna be replacing it soon), but from what I can tell there is no book symbol

Speaking of glovebox, mine is out and and I've been having trouble getting it to close when I reassemble it.
When I have the inside plastic held by 5 screws which also houses the hinges down, it is able to latch onto the glovebox, but when I attach it to the dash and try to close the glovebox, it will not latch.
Any word on that?
 

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luvs2getmuddy said:
I believe the shop it was at may have had to remove the rad to do some unrelated work, maybe they didn't put enough coolant since right prior to dropping it off, the heat worked.
In my experience as a wrench, in a case like that there are no coincidences. Heat worked, shop did something, heat doesn't work (I did understand that correctly?)

luvs2getmuddy said:
Speaking of glovebox, mine is out and and I've been having trouble getting it to close when I reassemble it.
When I have the inside plastic held by 5 screws which also houses the hinges down, it is able to latch onto the glovebox, but when I attach it to the dash and try to close the glovebox, it will not latch.
Any word on that?
Sounds to me like you're binding the bowden cable for the lock release when you're pushing the glove box home. Essentially, you'd then always be pushing the release button.
 
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