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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. New to the forum, just bought my first Range Rover, a 2001 4.8 HSE. It's a real junker. Bought it sight unseen, for next to nothing. 117,000 miles. Now I'm in the process of trying to fix all that's wrong with it.

Here are some of the problems:

EAS: On bump stops now. Never seen it rise up.
FUSE 8 error: Fuse tests good.
Right side window and sunroof work but register faults. Window makes a rattling noise at top of travel.
The HEVAC, Radio, and navigation are blank. No lights, no power.
Locking mechanism has a mind of it's own. Exterior front door handles pulling away from the door skin.

On the PLUS side, the motor sounds great, body looks great, engine and under body passes visual inspection, fluids look good.

My big question is what is a good diagnostic tool for the above problems? I know I will need something that will reset the EAS (if it is, in fact tripped?).

I have searched the forums, and all the OBDII notes are a number of years old. I know technology changes quickly, and manufacturers are always updating their product.

*** What is a good all-around OBDII reader, that will also reset the EAS? I don't need to get into deep settings, adjustments, and tinkering. I just need to reset things, isolate problems. Of course, less $ the better.

I'm new to Range Rover, but not new to working on vehicles, electronics, etc.

Thanks for all your help. I look forward to resurrecting this beast!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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First the EAS, the usual story is that the air bags start leaking, no one replaces them, the compressor works overtime keeping the suspension inflated and eventually dies. So my guess is the compressor and the bags are shot. There is lots on this forum about the EAS. I would start the old girl up, and then see if there is power at the compressor, if there is power but nothing happening then the compressor is shot and that's a good place to start. If the compressor is working, it might not be working well, or the valve block might need some work. If its bad, you will hear the air hissing out of the valve block. It is easy to fix up, just put an o-ring kit through it. For other leaks, a spray bottle full of soapy water is your friend.
If you get a copy of RAVE (the rangerover bible) there is an electric trouble shooting manual which sets out how to trouble shoot various components.
No idea on fuse 8, I could look it up. All the wiring diagrams are in RAVE. There are miles of wiring in these things, and I have had some odd ball things happening with short circuits.
I purchased a nanocom which is available online. I'm quite happy with it, and I think it is the preferred reader on this forum.
What fault is registered for the sun roof and window? You need to run them all the way up and down after the battery is disconnected so the BECM can calibrate them.
You can get a kit for the front door handles, don't have the part number but you'll find it on this site. I posted it recently.
Check the wiring diagrams, I think the HEVAC, radio and satnav are all on the same fuse. Again, the electric troubleshooting manual is your friend.
117,000 miles is about 200,000 ks, that isn't a lot of ks for the motor and transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First the EAS, the usual story is that the air bags start leaking, no one replaces them, the compressor works overtime keeping the suspension inflated and eventually dies. So my guess is the compressor and the bags are shot. There is lots on this forum about the EAS. I would start the old girl up, and then see if there is power at the compressor, if there is power but nothing happening then the compressor is shot and that's a good place to start. If the compressor is working, it might not be working well, or the valve block might need some work. If its bad, you will hear the air hissing out of the valve block. It is easy to fix up, just put an o-ring kit through it. For other leaks, a spray bottle full of soapy water is your friend.
If you get a copy of RAVE (the rangerover bible) there is an electric trouble shooting manual which sets out how to trouble shoot various components.
No idea on fuse 8, I could look it up. All the wiring diagrams are in RAVE. There are miles of wiring in these things, and I have had some odd ball things happening with short circuits.
I purchased a nanocom which is available online. I'm quite happy with it, and I think it is the preferred reader on this forum.
What fault is registered for the sun roof and window? You need to run them all the way up and down after the battery is disconnected so the BECM can calibrate them.
You can get a kit for the front door handles, don't have the part number but you'll find it on this site. I posted it recently.
Check the wiring diagrams, I think the HEVAC, radio and satnav are all on the same fuse. Again, the electric troubleshooting manual is your friend.
117,000 miles is about 200,000 ks, that isn't a lot of ks for the motor and transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info. I'm looking forward to digging deeper into all the problems. I just looked up the Nanocom and it's $500. Do you know of a more basic diagnostic OBDII reader that can also reset the EAS? If not, I may have to just spring for the Nanocom.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Thanks for the info. I'm looking forward to digging deeper into all the problems. I just looked up the Nanocom and it's $500. Do you know of a more basic diagnostic OBDII reader that can also reset the EAS? If not, I may have to just spring for the Nanocom.
There are some other ones available, when I did the research I decided to buy a nanocom. Are you getting any EAS faults on the dashboard? Why do you think it needs resetting?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
There are some other ones available, when I did the research I decided to buy a nanocom. Are you getting any EAS faults on the dashboard? Why do you think it needs resetting?
There are some other ones available, when I did the research I decided to buy a nanocom. Are you getting any EAS faults on the dashboard? Why do you think it needs resetting?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
EAS Fault on dashboard. I just read how to open the door, start the car, wait, to see if the air holding tank fills up. I'll try that tomorrow. From what I've read so far it seems like it's fairly straightforward to diagnose, repair the EAS system. Seems simple enough. An air compressor, holding tank, some lines, and some air bags, relays, solenoids, etc. I'm just anticipating that I'll need to reset it if not now, then in the future some time.
 

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Although I now have a Nanocom, for the first 5 or so years of my P38 ownership all I had was a basic £50 OBD reader that could display live data and for the EAS, as I bought my car with a burst air spring so that was the first thing I needed to look at, a cable and the free software. You can either buy a cable like this P38 P38a RANGE ROVER EAS AIR SUSPENSION FAULT CODE RESET & DIAGNOSTIC PC TOOL | eBay which comes with the software or follow the guide here P38a EAS Unlock Videos to make your own cable (but you will need a computer with a serial port of a USB to serial adapter) and download the software from RSWsolutions.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Front Left Handle (North American drivers side) rebuild kit STC3063
Front Right Handle (North American passenger side) rebuild kit STC3064

Or check the torx screw on the side of the door to ensure it is tight. This screw secures the door handle to the door.

The issue with your drivers side window is the Window Regulator is bad. One or more of the teeth in the big gear are broken.

You will need to remove the interior door panel to repair the window and door handle.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Front Left Handle (North American drivers side) rebuild kit STC3063
Front Right Handle (North American passenger side) rebuild kit STC3064

Or check the torx screw on the side of the door to ensure it is tight. This screw secures the door handle to the door.

The issue with your drivers side window is the Window Regulator is bad. One or more of the teeth in the big gear are broken.

You will need to remove the interior door panel to repair the window and door handle.
Parts on order, thanks!
 
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