[monjoh]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

No the shut down while driving would be something else. My started engaged but only started to turn the engine over, it acted like a bad or weak battery except all other power looked good lights did not even dim when attempting to start. If you have good voltage at the starter and it will not turn over it almost has to be the starter. When I pulled the starter and bench tested it, it turned over slowly and smoked. When I bench test the first new one after pulling it out it did nothing.
John

 

[RRToadHall]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

It's not that I am fat and/or lazy, but I hate getting under my rig without the EAS in wading mode. QUIET RON AND KAM. My last check tonight is to check the starter connections and jumper test it. I am pretty sure it will test fine. If it doesn't I have TWO issues landing at once. Then again it's a Brit and British problems rarely like to be alone. THey often like a pal to keep them company in the hard times. :?

 

[paul.adshead]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

Go through the 'electrical sticky' tests and post the results.

You should be able to get the starter to crank over the engine, just with a big screwdriver between the correct two terminals on the starter. If you've never done it before, I'm not going to try and teach you - space next to the starter is limited and it makes you jump when your screwdriver 'sparks up'.... :!: Make sure it is properly in neutral (- or maybe in 'TRANSFER NEUTRAL') if you're underneath getting the engine to crank!! :!: Maybe also get someone standing on the brakes...

 

[paul.adshead]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

Alternatively, just try getting 6" of wire with a spade connector at each end, and jump the power-pins (not coil-pins) on relay 16 in the underbonnet fusebox. Relay 16 is the relay closest to the centre of the fusebox. Energising relay 16, is essentially what the BECM does, when you turn the ignition key to pos III.

If you can't get it to crank using your screwdriver on the starter, then I'd check the BIIIG wires that join the battery/starter (also refer electrical sticky). If the resistance of these wires is nearly zero (=good), then I'd be looking at a starter problem. If it cranks using the screwdriver-on-starter method, but not when jumping RL16, then I'd think it could be an internal failure in the fusebox.

 

[Scotty]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

Carl the Battery could show good voltage but not have the amps to sustain the cranking of the starter.
New battery or not.
Sorry for the bad luck there
Scotty

 

[RRToadHall]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

Carl the Battery could show good voltage but not have the amps to sustain the cranking of the starter.
New battery or not.
Sorry for the bad luck there
Scotty

Ahhh, very true... except that the jump start attempt made no difference.

I am guessing that I have two issues that just happened to have landed at the same time. The most disturbing is the sudden ignition failure. It's not a fueling issue because there was no sputter and there is pleanty of fuel pressure. I doubt a mechanical failure as it was sudden without any clanking, screaching etc. All the spark plugs are spotless, oil is squeaky clean (just changed a couple hundred miles ago), no change in coolant level...etc. All items with BeCM and ECM check out as fine and communicating. When I fix the cranking issue I can check for spark.

Second is the no cranking issue. I haven't been able to chack the starter yet. The solinoid is definately working. It engages firmly and rocks the whole rig with key, RovaCom, and jumper. I am guessing that the starter has failed and I already have one on order just for the heck of it.

Since the fuse box PCB was burnt and showed corrosion I ordered one of those as well. However, I am happy to entertain any additional ideas. :thumb:

 

[Iceberg]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

So, Carl, did you take it to Biggs for the diagnosis and you are doing the operation yourself? Those guys have taken care of mine a couple times (unfortunately). Great guys

 

[RRToadHall]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

So, Carl, did you take it to Biggs for the diagnosis and you are doing the operation yourself? Those guys have taken care of mine a couple times (unfortunately). Great guys

Steve and Jim are simply the best around. Terrific guys to work with and very flexible and accomodating. I too would reccomend Biggs to anyone. If I had it towed to Bigg's I am sure I'd be back on the road by now. However I am in no big hurry as I have other cars I can drive. I have been using a buddies testbook and older RovaCom as my RovaCom "Extreme" is once again an extreme paperweight. :roll:

 

[Iceberg]

They are great guys, and I have wheeled with Jim once, almost a year ago.

Problem is that if I have to bring it to them, then the resulting excellent work with discount still have too many zeros attached. Last one was a new tranny.

 

[RRToadHall]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

Thanks to the good folks at Bend Rovers (yes there really is an "R" in their name) and Ron I think I am looking at a MUCH bigger issue. With no spark plugs in place, new bench tested starter and three batteries attempted, my poor babe has a no go attitude. No turnie Mr Magoo! I wil crawl under with a HUGE wrench/socket and give things an attempt. Yes Ron, I did thing backwards. I should have turned by hand first, and then by battery. However, it was getting very dark, it was raining and I am fat and lazy. :mrgreen:

 

[monjoh]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

That hurts. That is not an option I wanted to think a bought or bring up. It did have me worried when the first new starter did not work. I also did not climb under and attempt to turn it over I let my son do it. I was going to post a picture installing the starter to show you do not need ramps with a rover but the extraneous has been cleaned.
good luck
John

 

[RRToadHall]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

sniff sniff

It's official. With no hint of issue, no warning and no easy way out, I have a seized engine. As the old girl didn't make even a hint of a wimper before seizing I am hoping for something simple like a failed timing chain jambing things up. Obviously this is a lack of sleep induced pipe dream, but I can still hope.

 

[Iceberg]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

sniff sniff

It's official. With no hint of issue, no warning and no easy way out, I have a seized engine. As the old girl didn't make even a hint of a wimper before seizing I am hoping for something simple like a failed timing chain jambing things up. Obviously this is a lack of sleep induced pipe dream, but I can still hope.

Daymn.

Hmm, didnt the man from Omaha shupack put some research into a LT1 engine?

 

[RRToadHall]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

sniff sniff

It's official. With no hint of issue, no warning and no easy way out, I have a seized engine. As the old girl didn't make even a hint of a wimper before seizing I am hoping for something simple like a failed timing chain jambing things up. Obviously this is a lack of sleep induced pipe dream, but I can still hope.

Daymn.

Hmm, didnt the man from Omaha shupack put some research into a LT1 engine?

No offense to anyones hard work, but I wouldn't touch an LT1 in this life time. If I want an LT1 I'll go buy a Chevy. :? Nah, The old girl dies too quickly and too quietly to be catastrophic. I get her torn down and figure out what I am going to do.

 

[shupack]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

LS-2, not LT...now I'm toying with the idea of an electric conversion :twisted:

to keep with the original spirit of the thread:

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Rover...#/photo.php?pid=3106899&id=60608797185&ref=mf

 

[Iceberg]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

Electric conversion, that is perfect.

Since Carl is from the same organic green area I am the electric would go over well here. Actually, I do not want the work of a real electric conversion, just want to know where to buy those decals/emblems to put on the back to make it look like I am.


Actually, my engine is great and my tranny is great - the rest of the thing is falling apart around what I have already spent $$ on!

 

[lrscott]

Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

I have thought about converting my rover to electric. I have a golf cart (don't ask) that is electric and I beat the living hell out of it and it keeps coming back for more, long after the internal combustion ones need a rebuild. LOVE THE THING! I wish I could incorporate the same concept into the Land Rover, of course time and money are a very large issue.

 

[RRToadHall]

Steering things back on topic. After a round of rechecking, the engine is firmly seized. No clunks, squeals or bangs. She just stopped. I will have the heads off shortly to check the top end of things. So far eveything is very nicely clean. Coolant galleries are SPOTLESS. almsot no carbon on intakes. Rockers are discoloured from dino oil, but no sign of sludge, fouling or heating. Lifters and cam are nice and shiney as well.

After a hot sunny day beverage it will be time to look for a dropped liner.

 

[Scotty]

Hey Carl really sorry to here that man let me know how the rebuild goes...

Scotty

 

[RRToadHall]

Front engine oil leak finally found

SOrry for not reporting back sooner. With Granny from hell, various high drama bits and getting old I haven't had much time to pull more engine bits apart to find the issue. When last I checked in on subject everything was nice and clean, no signs of stress or overheating. No "sawdust" or even gold dust in the oil sump, there has never been a hint of dust or shavings on the magnetic sump plug.Water pump has been removed and looks like it is brand new. I have double checked with the previous owner and gone through my pile of receipts, and it appears that it really does have 160K on it.

On alighter note, I have finally FINALLY found the source of my front end oil leak. There is some odd ball thing called a CMP sensor that I have never noticed in reading through RAVE before. There is a note in RAVE to remove it to get to the timing chain and discard it's "O" ring. I found what is left of an "O" ring, it looks like a snotty bit of old rubber band left over from a high school science project. The whole front cover, left of the sensor, looks like black cottage chesse from oil leakage.

The sad news is that I am still unable to crank the engine by hand or by starter. I am reduced to something in the front cover (hoping for a jambed timing chain) or something pretty major under the heads.