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Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

Go through the 'electrical sticky' tests and post the results.

You should be able to get the starter to crank over the engine, just with a big screwdriver between the correct two terminals on the starter. If you've never done it before, I'm not going to try and teach you - space next to the starter is limited and it makes you jump when your screwdriver 'sparks up'.... :!: Make sure it is properly in neutral (- or maybe in 'TRANSFER NEUTRAL') if you're underneath getting the engine to crank!! :!: Maybe also get someone standing on the brakes...
 

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Re: Where no Range ROver should ever have to go

Alternatively, just try getting 6" of wire with a spade connector at each end, and jump the power-pins (not coil-pins) on relay 16 in the underbonnet fusebox. Relay 16 is the relay closest to the centre of the fusebox. Energising relay 16, is essentially what the BECM does, when you turn the ignition key to pos III.

If you can't get it to crank using your screwdriver on the starter, then I'd check the BIIIG wires that join the battery/starter (also refer electrical sticky). If the resistance of these wires is nearly zero (=good), then I'd be looking at a starter problem. If it cranks using the screwdriver-on-starter method, but not when jumping RL16, then I'd think it could be an internal failure in the fusebox.
 

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Have you dropped the sump yet? Use your faultmate to drive the EAS to 'extended' and you should be able to remove the sump above the axle, or at least have a good look underneath/inside.
 
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