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Discussion Starter #1
There are a lots of posts related to this issue and the cross member but I'm looking for specific instructions or advice for removing and replacing this section of the flooring.

For example, how close to I cut to the rear lip/how far towards the raised areas/how deep to not cut into the cross member? Angle grinder or torch?

I really don't want to take on the cross member at the moment, so I am planning to just scrape and treat once it is exposed more (hopefully it isn't too far gone). This hole in the attachment is the only one on the interior.

Thank in advance for any advice on this.
Jonathan IMG_9947.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Right now, I was hoping to just get away with keeping the lip section intact, replacing the rot, and cleaning up the cross member. If more than that is required it'll have to wait until the summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
BTW Portland seems like a pretty great place, really enjoyed spending a few days there with the family last summer.
 

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That doesn't look all too bad, however, if your rear cross member is starting to crumble you really should consider replacing it while you're there. Do the work upfront so you don't double your efforts later on.

The tailgate is easy enough to pop off, just be careful with the wires leading into the bottom for the license plates lights. Once that's out of the way, and the bumper is off, you'll really be able to see how things look.

Also, crawl under the truck, and look up. What looks "good" from the top might not look so great from below.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That doesn't look all too bad, however, if your rear cross member is starting to crumble you really should consider replacing it while you're there. Do the work upfront so you don't double your efforts later on.
Completely agree, especially given the availability through YRM.

Please feel free to provide feedback on this plan:
Remove affected area with an angle grinder
Leave the lip for now
Inspect cross member, if intact clean & treat
If cross member is OK, replace, grind, & paint.
If cross member is shot, go ahead and remove the lip area too and do further research on existing posts for CM replacement before proceeding.

I might be overthinking it but cutting on the old girl to save her is something I'm not used to.
 

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Given that our girls are over 20 years old, I wouldn't even bother with trying to save the rear cross-member. It's only a matter of time before you'll have to replace it. If you're planning on keeping the truck, I'd do the crossmember now as you're in that mindset. As Rangerover mentioned, it may look solid from the outside, but... the rear crossmembers tend to rot from the inside out. Poke around with a screwdriver, but that may be opening a Pandora's box...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Given that our girls are over 20 years old, I wouldn't even bother with trying to save the rear cross-member. It's only a matter of time before you'll have to replace it. If you're planning on keeping the truck, I'd do the crossmember now as you're in that mindset. As Rangerover mentioned, it may look solid from the outside, but... the rear crossmembers tend to rot from the inside out. Poke around with a screwdriver, but that may be opening a Pandora's box...
I'm sure it's the more efficient use of time and money in the long run. Now that I have the rear leaks sorted I think I will wait till camping season is over in late fall to tackle a job that large.
 
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