Range Rovers Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
2010 SC 5.0 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
2,013 Posts
its a vent line from the differential
 

·
Registered
2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
459 Posts
If you're asking about the shiny black plastic line with an inverted "U" it's the breather/atmospheric vent pipe for the front differential.

Its orifice points downwards to prevent dirt ingress (via gravity) and this opening is intended to be "high" enough to not allow H2O to find its way into the front diff through normal usage.

Rob
 

·
Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Amazing. Thanks guys. Months ago I topped off the front differential oil, could i have over filled and now it’s dripping out of that atmospheric vent tube? I notice there was oil in that area as well on the driver side height sensor underneath the car.
 

·
Registered
2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
459 Posts
On may other vehicles the differential oil level is normally filled to the bottom of the fill orifice/plug, with the onset of a drip being the trigger to quit adding oil.

In the case of your LR's front differential this represents a little too much oil volume (because the oil fill "level" should actually be a measured quantity/volume per the shop manual, when changing the oil).

This does present a problem when checking or topping up on an LR front diff as opposed to a typical vehicle's topping off the oil level (as you're probably now realizing). If you want to correct any excessive drip from the vent, you could remove the fill plug and suck a little oil out until you can sense the level is half a fingertip lower than the bottom of the fill plug (as a wag) as opposed to draining it and refilling with the correct volume of oil to be certain.

Or you could just live with it for now. At least you know the vent line isn't blocked :)

Rob
 

·
Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Rob that is exactly what I did. I filled it to the bottom edge of the oil fill. I am going live with it for now. First i need to figure out where my slow oil leak is coming from. Any thoughts on my electrical issue where central lock/unlock or key fob lock/unlock will not work for my passenger door? Same goes for the passenger window, it won’t roll from driver side but it will from passenger and can’t adjust passenger door mirror? I did swap the master control switch with no success.
 

·
Registered
2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
459 Posts
Any thoughts on my electrical issue where central lock/unlock or key fob lock/unlock will not work for my passenger door? Same goes for the passenger window, it won’t roll from driver side but it will from passenger and can’t adjust passenger door mirror? I did swap the master control switch with no success.


There are a few "touch points" which would be worth checking first, if you're both handy, patient and methodical.

The body control module on your Model Year (MY) is under the front passenger seat.

You'll need to remove the four seat track bolts (10mm socket) then tip the seat backwards to rest on the rear seat cushion while you work in that area. There may [still] be a shoe box lid size plastic cover over the BCM cavity secured with two Phillips head inserts within larger plastic clips. Remove that too if it's still installed.

Take a good look at ALL the pins in the three BCM connectors. Make sure they're all nice and shiny/clean.

That MY has mostly BMW sourced electrical connectors. There's a 10mm ground connector underneath the back outer edge of the front passenger carpet, adjacent to the B post. To access that, remove the aluminum sill trim (pops up using a non-marring prybar) and the A post lower plastic corner trim, which just pulls rearward with a sharp tug. You may also need to remove the two black plastic 10mm nuts which hold the BCM mounting bracket to allow the carpet to be pried up high enough.

Ensure that the ground post and loop connector is clean and non-corroded. There will be multiple black wires to the connector.

There are one or two similar 10mm ground connectors in the right front lower A post area which need your same attention.

If all's well so far and you're still on the hunt for the next area to check I'd begin with the connector in the A post from the body to the door, covered with a black articulated sleeve.

You probably need to remove the lighting control module (from memory) to gain access to the cavity which secures the connector's plastic mount on the body side.

Peel back the rubber sleeve as it is clipped to the outer A post and roll the sleeve back to gain access to the connector.

The chances are reasonable that there's a loose or bent pin in the body/door connector, given that the window still works from the switch on the passenger door. Separate the connector and use a small mirror to peer into the connector to check the pins. There is a specific shop test called a "pin drag" which is used to confirm the tightness of the individual connectors. Caution - it can be very fiddly/frustrating working in that area if you have large hands (wish I was kidding), especially re-installing that rubber boot.

You might try having a helper open the door at varying degrees while you attempt to use the passenger window switch on the driver master control. Using a screwdriver to "lock" the latch on the open door, cycle the passenger door through varying sweeps between nearly full open to almost closed and again, try the lock/unlock using the key fob.

One last thing... when putting all these pieces back together it may appear that one minute your seat switch works, then it doesn't. This is normal. The numerous modules on the CAN busses wake up and fall asleep depending on time and this is triggered by opening and closing the driver's door. So, if you take the seat out and then re-install it beyond a certain period of time and it no longer moves, just open and close the driver door and hey presto = motion again!

Lastly, it's entirely possible that your passenger door latch is/has failed too. The associated micro-switches do fail. This would need the entire latch replacement (a good used part should work) but before actual replacement further trouble-shooting should determine whether the latch is receiving a signal to lock/unlock first.

Good luck.

Rob
 

·
Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
4 Posts
I have a 2007 RR SC, I found a 1/4" diameter plastic tubing with a white plastic 90 degree fitting on the end. lying next to my air filter. Could this be the front differential vent mentioned in the previous t\messages?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,834 Posts
No the diff breather looks like a black candy cane as pictured above.
 

·
Registered
2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
22 Posts
Any thoughts on my electrical issue where central lock/unlock or key fob lock/unlock will not work for my passenger door? Same goes for the passenger window, it won’t roll from driver side but it will from passenger and can’t adjust passenger door mirror? I did swap the master control switch with no success.


There are a few "touch points" which would be worth checking first, if you're both handy, patient and methodical.

The body control module on your Model Year (MY) is under the front passenger seat.

You'll need to remove the four seat track bolts (10mm socket) then tip the seat backwards to rest on the rear seat cushion while you work in that area. There may [still] be a shoe box lid size plastic cover over the BCM cavity secured with two Phillips head inserts within larger plastic clips. Remove that too if it's still installed.

Take a good look at ALL the pins in the three BCM connectors. Make sure they're all nice and shiny/clean.

That MY has mostly BMW sourced electrical connectors. There's a 10mm ground connector underneath the back outer edge of the front passenger carpet, adjacent to the B post. To access that, remove the aluminum sill trim (pops up using a non-marring prybar) and the A post lower plastic corner trim, which just pulls rearward with a sharp tug. You may also need to remove the two black plastic 10mm nuts which hold the BCM mounting bracket to allow the carpet to be pried up high enough.

Ensure that the ground post and loop connector is clean and non-corroded. There will be multiple black wires to the connector.

There are one or two similar 10mm ground connectors in the right front lower A post area which need your same attention.

If all's well so far and you're still on the hunt for the next area to check I'd begin with the connector in the A post from the body to the door, covered with a black articulated sleeve.

You probably need to remove the lighting control module (from memory) to gain access to the cavity which secures the connector's plastic mount on the body side.

Peel back the rubber sleeve as it is clipped to the outer A post and roll the sleeve back to gain access to the connector.

The chances are reasonable that there's a loose or bent pin in the body/door connector, given that the window still works from the switch on the passenger door. Separate the connector and use a small mirror to peer into the connector to check the pins. There is a specific shop test called a "pin drag" which is used to confirm the tightness of the individual connectors. Caution - it can be very fiddly/frustrating working in that area if you have large hands (wish I was kidding), especially re-installing that rubber boot.

You might try having a helper open the door at varying degrees while you attempt to use the passenger window switch on the driver master control. Using a screwdriver to "lock" the latch on the open door, cycle the passenger door through varying sweeps between nearly full open to almost closed and again, try the lock/unlock using the key fob.

One last thing... when putting all these pieces back together it may appear that one minute your seat switch works, then it doesn't. This is normal. The numerous modules on the CAN busses wake up and fall asleep depending on time and this is triggered by opening and closing the driver's door. So, if you take the seat out and then re-install it beyond a certain period of time and it no longer moves, just open and close the driver door and hey presto = motion again!

Lastly, it's entirely possible that your passenger door latch is/has failed too. The associated micro-switches do fail. This would need the entire latch replacement (a good used part should work) but before actual replacement further trouble-shooting should determine whether the latch is receiving a signal to lock/unlock first.

Good luck.

Rob
I had this same issue that is described above, except it was my driver door that the keyfob/central lock/unlock would not activate. I could not operate the passenger mirror, nor roll down any windows except the driver window, using the driver controls. The inside of the door connector for the driver door had corrosion in it, to the point that one pin had sheared off. I cleaned the connector with some MAF cleaner (ran out of contact cleaner) and removed the broken pin with the wire. Soldered some stiff bell wire long enough to act as a pin to go through the connector. Gave it a good layer of dielectric grease, and everything works again. I cleaned both sides as I also found corrosion on the passenger side, just not as bad.

These aren't my pics, but this is exactly what I found when I took mine apart:
Door connector1.jpg Door connector2.jpg
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top