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Discussion Starter #1
What is the power split on the RRC? Is it 50/50 or 60/40 in favour of the rear wheels? Or is it variable according to grip?

The reason I as is that when energetically pulling off (roundabout/juction) the front wheels do seem to spin a lot.

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Discussion Starter #3
In that case why is it only the front wheels tht spin? Do the rears not take up any power when the front loses traction? it is a noticeable amount of spin.

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Are you sure your rear wheels are getting power?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thats a good question. In the snow she went well without any snaking and I couldn't get the rear to breakaway at all. Now that could mean the answer is no or that the 4wd is really working well :? How can I test it? I could jack up the front with the bottle jack until the tyres where of the surface then try to drive forward I suppose.

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I can't see that you haven't got power to the rear unless you've taken out the rear propshaft (which I assume you haven't). The fronts spinning is just because you're asking the tyres to cope with turning two tons of vehicle whilst applying power to the road, which is why powerful front-wheel-drive cars tend to spin a wheel under acceleration whilst cornering hard and understeer.

Just because the front wheels spin, there's no reason for the rears to do so - apart from the fact that the rears don't do any steering, there are so many other considerations such as what weight is over each wheel (which is dependent on load in the vehicle, turning and acceleration forces etc...) and even the condition of the shock absorbers.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Fully understand what you are saying there. I first noticed this when urning right out of a junction. But even with the wheel straight ahead if I apply ample power, say half throttle, the fronts will spin quite a lot. Other 4x4's I have driven inc. my Disco never did this. Maybe a very small slip but then the rear would grip and off it would go. The tyres are also fully road pattern so I would have thought they would give better grip than the 50/59's I have on the Disco. Very odd. Could it be the centre diff lock?

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I suppose that if the viscous coupling had failed open (though I'm not sure if that's possible - they normally seize up) you could have the situation where if the front wheel starts spinning the centre diff wouldn't lock - I'm assuming that you have the correct viscous transfer box, and haven't put in a manually locking transfer box.

But that wouldn't actually cause the problem in the first place. And if you say it was ok in the snow, I'd be surprised if that was the problem.

If you remove the front propshaft, you can prove to yourself that the viscous is working - if the car moves with one of the propshafts missing, then you know that the transfer box is locking up ok.

If you're getting wheelspin under fairly normal conditions, and tyres are good, road conditions are ok, you haven't accidently fitted nitrous(!), etc, then I'm a little stumped. A badly work shock or broken spring is all I can suggest.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Went to a local garage recommended to me today.

Company name Protech. Near Llantrisant. South Wales. UK
Had the Diags run.
Cost £47 inc.
System: Autologic.
Service: Way above the average. In fact excellent.
Knowledge: Excellent. Over 20 years working on LR/RR's

Outcome.
All faults cleared and then tested run and re-check. No new faults diagnosed on the Engine ECU, Air suspension or the ABS.

The timing is set fully for gas it would seem, so running on petrol is lumpy. A "mid-way" point on the timing would help this. I have also noticed a click through the radio speakers that suggests there is a stray spark somewhere. So Dizzy cap and condensor are next to be changed and I will probably do the rotor arm at the same time.

The only minus side is that the Viscous coupling does look like it is beginning to fail, Oddly open, as the front wheels are getting most of the power and do spin quite often. Price for fitting would be c £90 so not to bad but the price of the unit :eek:

All in all a good outcome with excellent service from knowledgable "Mechanics" (not fitters)

Next hurdle. M.O.T in March....
 

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Just had a new viscous coupling fitted in my Dakar - £500+ :(
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The thick plottens.....

Having had a puncture repaired the other day (the first I have had in probably ten years) I re-fitted the wheel and while I had it up in the air I thought I would do a little test.

First of all let me make clear that there is no noise fron the gearbox/transfer or rear diff at all. They are completely silent surprisingly.

Tested like this.
Start up and into reverse. Handbrake off and slowly release the footbrake getting ready to re-apply as soon as any movement is felt. No movement except for the front wheel which is spinning.

Next with help and a lot of care I did the same but this time had someone check the prop was moving (they were nowhere near the car and too the side. (I really don't need the extra work LOL) Prop is spinning.

Also the T/C light came on again as before and stayed on until I switched off and on again.

Conclusion? Well I am not sure. If it were the diff I would hear it surely. If it was a Series Land Rover I would guess that it had snapped a half shaft but even then it should make some noise.

So unless anyone has any other suggestions I will have to see if I can pull the rear half shafts.
 

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TehPriest said:
Conclusion? Well I am not sure. If it were the diff I would hear it surely. If it was a Series Land Rover I would guess that it had snapped a half shaft but even then it should make some noise.
That is odd. Could the gears in the rear diff be completely stripped? Although I agree, you'd probably hear something if that were the case.

One way or another, it seems no power is getting to the rear wheels.

How about jacking up the left side of the RR, lifting both left wheels, see if both left wheels spin, and then repeat for the right. If you have no power to either rear wheel it points to the rear-diff (or both half shafts).

If one of the rear wheels spins, and not the other, points to a half shaft....

(assuming I've thought this through right...)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Working only from Series experience then sadly, no that qwould not work. I would need to raise both front wheels or it would move and then raise each of the rear wheels but then the power would take the path of least resistance which would always be the broken half shaft so neither wheel would turn no matter which was grounded. Will have to pull the both and see.

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Discussion Starter #14
Just found these posts

Hi,
I've had several rangies with that problem.
It's simple: the visco is completely blocked so it is like driving with difflock on always. Something has to break and thet is normally the front or rear diff.
You can drive normally, there is no special sound but you have only 2-wheel drive. Repair is siple but expensive: change visco and one diff/axle.
That visco is rubish on older cars, better have a manual difflock like defenders and older rangies.
Good luck, Cai (Liège)
I had this exact problem last month - turned out to be the r/n/s half-shaft which had stripped it's inner splines. Cost of repair - £12.50! (ebay) & 90 mins struggling in the cold. Are you sure your rear half-shafts are okay?. Also, you can check your viscous coupling very easily - put the transfer box in low neutral, hand-brake on & jack up a front wheel. You should just be able to turn that wheel if the v/c is okay. Also, if it's gone the front wheels will scrub like buggery going forwards on full lock (if you restore the 4wd first...). V/c's only ever seize solid, it seems - they never go to full slip. Cheers, Mark.
So it could be that it has stripped the splines or seized and stripped them or seized and taken out the diff (no noise so unlikely)

Onwards.....

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Discussion Starter #15
Re: Wheel spin - more info

Well I had the chance to lift each back wheel in turn today and.....

Both turn very freely (no resistance) with no noise at all. Now this may sound good untill I say that the other three wheels are on the ground and the handbrake is on and gears in Park. Thank goodness the handbrake works on all four wheels..

Though there is no noise my guess is now that either both the half shaft splines have gone or it is the diff thats blown (more likely). Very odd there is no noise though.

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When I sheared one half-shaft in my MG Midget there was no noise as I revved the engine aside from the spinning of the tranny gears and prop shaft. The differential itself made no noise, even when I rolled backwards down the hill. I broke my half-shaft taking off from a stop sign at the top of a hill. It sheared at the end of the spines at the differential itself. And, yes, I used my brakes to parallel park on that hill; I didn't roll to a fiery death. Since I couldn't knock the broken tip of the half-shaft out of my diff, I ended up buying a rear axle complete off a junk yard Midget. I still have the good half shaft out of the old axle in my garage, 20 years later. You should be able to simply replace your half-shaft, though.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update..

Well I pulled the 1/2 shafts today and.







Oddly it is the short one that's gone. So next job is to find the time to pull the diff to get the broken bit out.

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Discussion Starter #18
After 4 hours today, three and a half of which were spent with hammer and drift in hand, I finnally got the stub out. Good thing I am on holiday and am allowed to voice my frustrations at stabbing myself and crushing my fingers :)

Now a new problem, well sort of.

To get the stub out I had to take the diff out of the casing. I did this by un bolting the four bolts that holds it down by the bearings. I did not move the adjuster ring just simply took them both off (and made sure they went back on the correct side) as a unit. Everything has gone back together and the Rangie drives fine. The problem is there is some noticeable but not loud whine.I think is coming from the rear diff though cannot be certain as yet. It is more noticeable when slowing down.

Any ideas?
 

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From what I understood from your post, you´ve replaced the broken half-shaft and are again driving your rangie.

In my humble opinion you should be careful and check what has caused this seizure! The main suspect is the viscous coupling. There is a conclusive test you can do which I quoted below:

classicjack said:
Remove front driveshaft and use big breaker with socket an flange nut, 32mm I think, turn clockwise and coupler will turn with much resistance. I cant remember the specifics but its something like at 40lb ft torque it will turn 1/4 turn in 30 sec. Test is done with wheels on ground. If coupler is seized it will not turn at all. If you want to drive you can leave driveshaft off. I'm sure if the ex drove for some time wilh bad coupler it damaged cv joints.
Try this before driving further! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I am fairly certain thatthe Viscous is seized. On full lock I get some scrubbing and skipping so that confirms it to me. I will be removing the new rear H/shaft and putting the broken one back on (to stop any oil leaking out). I have driven like this for six months so a few more days should not hurt. I have a replacement viscous hopefully on it's way soon.
 
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