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Discussion Starter #1
My original thought was wheel bearings and after some internet sleuthing, I can't figure it out.

1989 Rover Classic
I am feeling some grinding in my rear axle.
There is some clunks every now and then with the noise.
I had my girlfriend slowly drive as I walked next to it and the only way I can describe the noise is like this (hard to describe but..)
rubbing wet rubber gloves together makes a very distinct tight rubber sound. I am having a hard time describing it. This is at very slow speed.
Driving it kinda feels like the brake pads have 0% left on the pads.
I put the rear up on stands. Turned the wheels and they were smooth. I got very confused. There didn't seem to be any play in the tires. When I did put some downward pressure on the wheel, I could feel a bit of grinding.
Sound familiar to anyone? I want to take apart and inspect, but kinda want to have the replacement parts ready to just swap in.

Thank you
 

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The noise you describe "rubber gloves" does sound like tyre conflict if the centre diff is locked.

If you've got a viscous centre diff then you need to verify it's OK as it'll get you chasing all sort of things to find fault. I'd check that first, if fitted.

Lifting the rear axle so both wheels are off the ground will just allow you to turn that axle only. When one wheel is turned the opposite one will rotate in the opposite direction of rotation, that's normal and if smooth suggests the rear differential is ok.

To check viscous, lift one front wheel only, then you should be able to rotate by hand that wheel with resistance. It will take over 30 secs to rotate one revolution, but it should turn. If you can't do that, the viscous could be siezed.

We did this on a recent thread which could be worth a look as that example was siezed but will allow you to see the symptoms and discussion.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So, is this the same for front and back?
My prob is in the rear.

I just blocked the left rear tire, put it in neutral and tried turning the right rear tire.
It will turn, but quite a bit of resistance. Prob 60 seconds to get half way around. Maybe more
 

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Only because I've not tried it on the rear, for no other reason than I go to the front routinely, but it does have sound OK from your description.

Just to check, only one wheel lifted, handbrake off (for checking rear axle), you should feel a stiff fluid like resistance as you turn the free wheel by hand. If the VC has locked, you'll only be able to move it about 10mins on a clockface and no further at all.

It does sound like you're OK with that. At least you can now look with confidence for the cause.

To do a rough check on rear wheel bearings, secure handbrake, then get hold of each rear wheel at the top and rock the vehicle "across" the axle. You're trying to push the brake pads back away from the disc which will only happen IF the bearings have too much play.
Once you've done that, lift the axle and check for free play in the bearings by rocking each wheel to check for play. It'll give you an indication that further investigation is needed, and for each wheel.

If you don't attempt to move the pads first tgey can give the false impression of no play in the bearings from clamping the disc assembly after last footbrake pressure was used.

In severe cases the disc will touch the static brake caliper as the whole assembly of wheel+disc+bearings will not be aligned by correct bearing setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, when you put it that way. I only did about (as a clock face) 10 minutes and figured that to do a half turn on the wheels, it would take approx 1 minute or more. The resistance was pretty great
 

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Aah, in that case then it's inconclusive. You really should be able to see one full rotation completely. If it moves 10mins and you can't get any further, then it's most likely at fault. Even though your perception is a rear end fault it's worth checking one front one as well as it'll also eliminate the parking brake mechanism via that test, and so won't potentially cause confusion.

If it's locked solid then the centre differential will not allow the transmission forces/discrepancies that arise from the wheels moving at different pace while cornering to be equalised as they should. The resulting transmission wind up will stress all of the driveline components and make odd sounds from different places. It won't necessarily be the front axle or rear.

In effect it will try to unstress itself with tire slip, which can give that rubber glove sound.

In practice, youve really got to verify that VC before you can move on else you can really chase your tail on it.

That other thread is worth a read as there's quite a bit of description in it to help you.
 

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Aftermarket brake pads like from
Let’s say
Auto zone
Don’t fit exactly and
Can slide down and rub on the hub
Just throwing that out there
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well this just killed my fun.
I was thinking I was getting close to being able to drive this Rover and have fun with it and another problem arises.
I think it is the VC and I don't have a clue where to even find one.

Might be time to take her to the dump before I waste my life savings
 

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Well this just killed my fun.
I was thinking I was getting close to being able to drive this Rover and have fun with it and another problem arises.
I think it is the VC and I don't have a clue where to even find one.

Might be time to take her to the dump before I waste my life savings
I ordered my VC from Ashcroft Transmissions Limited - located in the UK.

https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php

Ordered on Tuesday PM, arrived within a week. Really impressed with their service and response time!

I owe them a core…. Need to sort the shipping cost vs. value in keeping the core.
 

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Well this just killed my fun.
I was thinking I was getting close to being able to drive this Rover and have fun with it and another problem arises.
I think it is the VC and I don't have a clue where to even find one.

Might be time to take her to the dump before I waste my life savings

Or you could replace the VC with a LT230 LR transfer case - that's what I'll be doing to my 95 LSE.
 

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Don't despair! There are many sources for used transfer cases. Start with Will Tillery (call him during east coast business hours on weekdays at 540-462-7353. As the owner of 2 Rovers I keep his number on speed dial), then Overland Rovers (search for them on Facebook). Both vendors sell quality used parts and Will guarantees what he sells. I've had great success with both sellers over the past 10 years of Rover ownership. My trucks would not be running without them.

Also check local craigslist posts, sometimes you can find a vehicle for sale with a blown motor or for parts and you can buy what you need from a donor truck.
 

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You're probably not far from having a decently sorted vehicle so wouldn't give up yet if you can stomach the journey.

As above, it's not that dire a situation.

Firstly make absolutely sure it's not serviceable. I've been underneath mine to get you a concise method. Chock wheels, lift one front wheel to just clear ground, get underneath with a lever and putting through the joint where the front propshaft bolts to the transmission ( not the axle end) and turn it there.
You'll have more of a mechanical advantage there to work with and it'll show definitively if you have a locked VC. If that is confirmed, initially you can remove the front propshaft from the vehicle as it'll drive without it when the VC is locked. It won't damage it like this but you'll have no 4 wheel drive obviously. But it'll give you time to consider options.

The thing is (and I don't wish to be presumptuous about anyone's finances) there's cost to running any vehicle. We've a not particularly interesting 2ltr diesel family car here which they quote minimum of £580 plus tax to replace the cambelt as part of routine service! That's more than replacing a VC and nothing's failed on it.
Really one of these is also running finance in the opposite direction to buying a new vehicle, low entry cost plus decent servicing to give you overall figure. It could be new vehicle at much greater cost that's going to loose far more in deprecation, even if you don't drive it.

But you have a much more interesting vehicle with a RR to use and have fun with.

Sure there's some hiccups along the way, but I think they are well worth it.
 

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I agree with RRLondon's commentary about not giving up on the Range Rover yet. There's a chance that your problem could have a solution that is not prohibitively expensive.

As for driving the vehicle with one drive shaft removed, that is something you might think about carefully before attempting. I know some people do it for short distances with no ill effects, but the Rover drivetrain was designed to be used with both axles sharing the work. Doubling the stress on one axle, particularly a ten-spline axle (which I think yours has), comes with risks of further damage.

Confirm the nature of the problem as RRLondon suggests, seek out an inexpensive replacement part from one of the vendors I mentioned, and if the Rover deities are benevolent you'll be back in action again with minimum pain and disruption.
 

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I don't think there will be any harm in driving with the front drive shaft removed. The earlier versions (Series 3) have no permanent 4 wheel drive and drive rear wheel most (if not all) the time. The transfer case is not any different in principal design and the rear drive shaft and axle are near identical to series verhicles. The diffs are, I know I swapped then in and out of Series vehicles at several occasions.
 

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Agree with above. Prior to Range Rover transmission they were effectively all rear wheel drive but using a simple dog clutch to engage front propshaft and so axle to provide 4x4. Because they didn't have a centre differential this facility was not used on high traction surfaces to avoid transmission conflict, the same as you get with locked VC.
In reality, any 4x4 vehicle with lever to engage "4x4" is the same, just rear plus front when needed, and no permanent 4 driven wheels.

But just as relevant to these transmission with centre differential, if you have one axle with no traction then the VC will become actively locked and all the available torque will be leveraged through the other propshaft and axle, each (front or rear) has to be able to accept the total output from the engine in this circumstance, as such being rated to accommodate that.

They even warn, as far as I remember, in drivers manual about applying maximum torque if front axle is stuck and steering is locked fully to left or right as the torque rating of the front CV joints diminish like this.
It's most likely that the front CV are generally the limitation in the whole transmission as they crack the inner track if overload takes place.

Running without the front propshaft is far less risk than siezed VC.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hello All.
Thank you for you vote of confidence in keeping me from burning this car down haha
I had to step away for a few and work on something else.

One poster said to make sure it is not serviseable. Are these even serviceable?
If the VC is seized, don't I need to replace it?

I think I am going to purchase a used VC (if mine is not serviceable) and figure it out.

I have another vehicle. The point of getting the Range Rover was not to put stupid miles on my Tow vehicle. I have yet to be able to drive my Rover since I got it a year ago. Just been having to replace things 1 at a time. I fix something, and then something else is broken. It really is a nice looking ride and in very good shape. I am just tired of things breaking or just not working
 

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Correct, removing the front driveshaft (UK propshaft) will remove the VC completely from the drive train. I the VC is bad you will find the car will drive normally with the propshaft removed. If it drives normally you can drive forever with the propshaft removed, you just won't have 4wd
 
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