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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
What is the cheapest and will work test tool to get me into whatever I need to get into to re sync my key to my 1999 P38 4.6 I have tried everything I can find here and on the net and before I tow it 200 miles to a dealer I would look into doing it my self. Can not get the alarm to go off every time I try to crank it.
 

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Your issue is not going to be solved by diagnostic equipment nor do you need equipment to sync your key. Most likely you have a failed driver latch not recognizing your inputs. See the testing stickie above.

BTW, dealer will want vast sums of money on top of your tow bill because they do not repair things they will insist on replacing bunches except the root cause.

We also need to know GEMS or Bosch for your 99.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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As RRTH says.....If we knew if you have a Bosch or Gems system, this could help.
There are hundreds of threads on this site alone dealing with this issue. Search is good.

If it is in an alarmed state, and asking for you to push the button on your fob, then a sync mate probably will not help. You will need to enter the EKA if it has one assigned. In this case, you MUST have good door latch switches. As stated, the test sticky is above.
In any event, if you have "Tried everything you can find" like removing the battery terminal, Pos II on the ignition, shorting things, etc. You could have put the Becm into an "alarm lockdown" state which will require removal and physical unlocking of the electronics inside.
Once the alarm is active, doing all of the above "Fixes" will be seen by the system as attempts to steal the truck, thus it can and will eventually lock down (Ask me how I know? :oops: )

As TH says, do NOT turn this thing over to the dealer (Unless you have a couple of grand to drop on it) as they no longer support P-38s and most likely, any one there who once knew how to correctly diagnose and repair these trucks has retired. Find a good indie with the proper test gear if you can.......
Try the door latches first. from there, something like an BBS Nano would be the minimum if you need to get into all the systems yourself.
 

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1999 P38 HSE 4.6 THOR
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My Canadian 1999 4.6 Bosch P38 stopped reacting to the button inputs from my fob. I read somewhere about inserting the key in the driver's door lock and then fully turning the key "left, right, left, right, left, right". I don't know if it was a fluke, but its worth trying, just in case! Good luck.
 

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Chad, if he truly has tried everything he has already tried the sync process. If his latch is duff it will not do any good. He needs to verify a properly operating latch be for he ends up locking up his BeCM.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry took me so long to reply been working on getting a Mack truck of mine back going. Mine is a Bosch 4.6 and I have searched and tried every thing I could find here and no luck will get replacement door latch and try that. Things I have tried have been the 1515 code 20 or so times disconnecting the battery turning on and reconnecting it and couple of other things I found here, have not crossed any wires yet but will try it but 1st I will get latch then go from there. (You could have put the Becm into an "alarm lockdown" state which will require removal and physical unlocking of the electronics inside.) How would I know if I did this.
 

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Jim, what did I suggest in the first response a week ago? Did you actually test your latches using the stickie tests at the top of the P38 section? if not, then you have not tried everything nor have you searched. I'd hate to see you start tossing money at parts without testing them first.
 

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Well now, that is a good question.....
When I have managed to screw around until it locked down, I discovered this by not being able to communicate with the Becm with my BBS Nano or faultmate II. These are test boxes specifically for Range Rover. When it is in an "Normal" alarmed state, it will allow you to input the EKA, or, using a proper piece of test gear, get into the Becm far enough to enter the EKA, or if you have lost sync between Becm and Engine ECU, it will allow you to read the remobilisation code from the ECU and input it into the Becm (Possibly the other way around....?)

NOTE: Not all NAs p-38s have the EKA function turned on in the Becm. In this case, a dead fob = a dead Rangie
~Most~ seem to have it enabled, and 1515 seems to be a common code.

In the case of a total lock down, the Becm will not respond in any way to the test gear and will not allow any access at all to disarm it. In the old days, when dealerships had trained techs, and all had Testbook diagnostic gear, they could (supposedly) get into the Becm past the firewall and disarm the Becm. Those days are long gone and the only way to recover a locked down Becm is to remove it and send it to a specialist with the right gear for physical unlocking. This is done by soldering a few wires onto the board past the firewall chip in the circuit and sending it an unlock command.
Incidentally, the best way to have this happen is to have a dodgy door microswitch, and NO working fobs. I cannot over stress the importance of having at least one working fob and good door microswitches!
You have said you will get a new door latch. have you taken the advice given above and followed Marty's great test procedure to be sure it is a microwsitch issue before tossing money at the problem blindly?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #11
Tried this and no luck not sure if this means anything but when door is closed and you turn key you get no response from truck but if door is open and you turn key you get the response you expect like lights blinking etc. I have both remotes that came with it and both get this same response but still nether remote will do anything with the buttons as far as locking or unlocking.http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdet...ce.html#remote
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is another post I made detailing what happened to my truck.. I will post my question here since my problem started with locking and unlocking by my 99 p-38 4.6 by it self. I found my wiring in driver door had melted and fused several wires together replaced entire harness in door found on e-bay also found the outstation had fused itself to a connector so replaced that also. Now the problem can not get either key to sync with truck have tried 3-4 different methods to re sync key here along with the battery disconnect, the 1515 code but no luck with any of them. I can manually open driver door with key without alarm going off but any other doors I try alarm goes off can not open back at all it is locked. Have called the dealer in Jacksonville Fl to see if there is another EKA code I could try all the info I can get from them is tow truck 200 miles and they will check it out. Sent an e-mail to Landrover USA this morning to see if they can be any help have not heard back from them. I did notice this morning on my 20th try at code only way I can get truck to react when I try code is to hold door open when I try but it still does not work. Any help would be wonderful and believe me I have searched for answers and tried most every thing I could find and would love to be able to move this truck again. I been fighting it for 15 years.
 

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So you have copied your original post on this site over here now. Why did you not start your own thread with that information in the first place? Everything you have posted up until today leads to a duff latch which folks have responded above to test. So with adding in your first post information today, we know what really happened is you had all the signs of a bad latch, did not address it and had a pretty serious short and electrical meltdown inside your door. Have you double checked the harness any farther or did the outstation take all of the damage?

I am not trying to be hard on you but 15 years with the same issue is a bit over the top. Was the outstation and harness out of a same '99 Bosch? Are you sure you ordered the correct part numbered latch... as in the same part number as was on your original?

Are there any more details that may help us help you?
 

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Let's back up a bit here. All of your problems seem to go back to ignoring the signs when they first started. The random dancing locks is a sign the microswitches in the latch are failing which, as you did nothing about it, almost certainly caused the locking motor to try to run constantly which is what burnt out the wiring. Assuming the loom, outstation and latch are the correct ones for your car and not from an earlier model, and that the wiring between the BeCM and door haven't also been damaged, then you need to enter the EKA code. RRTH has posted numerous times that the default 1515 code is a fallacy so won't work. From various comments on here I think NAS cars did not have an EKA programmed so it would default to 0000. To enter it you would simply do the unlock, lock, unlock, lock, unlock on the key but on a later car (which yours will be if it is a 99 Thor) you need to turn the key to the lock position 4 times BEFORE doing this to get it into EKA accept mode. If you can open the drivers door without the alarm going off, the door ajar switch isn't working so the BeCM doesn't know you've opened the door (I suspect the interior lights don't come on when you open that door either). If one switch isn't working then it's pretty likely that one of the others isn't too. The alarm going off when you open any of the other doors says that the system is in an alarmed state which means it won't be possible to sync the fobs, that can only be done when the car is in a normal, not alarmed, state. The only method of syncing a fob is to put the key in the door lock, turn to lock and hold there, press the lock button on the fob until the light flashes faster, release the fob button, turn the key to unlock, hold there and press and hold the fob unlock button until the light flashes faster. Other methods floating around the net are also wrong. The tailgate release gets it's ground supply from the RH front door, if that is locked there's no ground so it needs to be unlocked for the tailgate release to work. Finally, the disconnect and reconnect the battery with the ignition in position 2 is also a fallacy, all it does is cause you to have to reset the windows just the same as disconnecting the battery without the ignition in position 2.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
1st yes I have had this problem for last 2-3 years and the only really issue was a blown fuse from time to time so I did not look into it any further. # 2 while I was searching for answers I found a thread that someone had same issues as I did so instead of starting a new thread I posted my problem there because I know from experience how people react to a new thread that is covered somewhere else but I got no reply's. #3 I got the new wiring harness off of e-bay and I bought 2 different ones to see which fit the best and 1 of them matched perfect, the outstation other than the connector going to the latch had experienced heat and was very hard to get off could not tell if it was bad or not so found another outstation again on e-bay out of a 97 model and replaced it have tried putting my old one back in to see if that created the issue no difference, Have not ordered latch yet was hoping to test it 1st, is the pdf file on testing latches available any where else or can someone fix that one where I can open it? Last I started this thread because I thought getting into Becm was my only out wanted to know what to use to do that did not mean to get this sidetracked as much as it has sorry. One more thing I have enjoyed all the injector, brake problems because I like a challenge and when I get this one fixed probably will keep this truck around my shop for running here and there.
 

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There's slow and there's really slow. I posted the link 7 hours before you posted your reply.......
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #18
Guess I am getting senile because I swear the last responses I did not see till after I posted. But anyways I will get on testing latch 1st of week and see from there got the download from off site. THANKS..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
GOING AGAIN 1st off latch was bad replaced it and still nothing is working. 1st special thanks to chris no 10 for his tip on dis-arming truck worked great. Next I tried all the ways posted here to sync fob and some other ones I found none of them worked, then I found this response by Rich 998a https://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/20784-eka-emergency-key-access-need-help.html WORKED 1st time all is fixed and going. So thanks for all the reply's and yes I know should have checked latch 1st would have saved me money and time but then I would have missed out on all the cussing and fun in getting this truck going again.
 
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