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hey all curious to know what OCI's yall are running/recommend for the dealer Castrol Edge Professional EC 0W20?
I don't know exactly when the truck would have told me to do it based on a mileage example because I just passed the 1st year of ownership and at that point I was at about 6500 miles. I was busy for a bit so couldn't get it into the shop until 7000 miles but this is my first OCI!

I probably only had like 1500 miles on highway, remaining 5500 was all city

Just curious what OCI you guys are running disregarding the 'once a year timeline'


thanks!
 

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Most forum members change every 6 months/8,000 miles (cut the LR recommendation in half) some folks (myself included) changed it at 1,000 miles for the first service just to be safe. The oil and filter on this vehicle is so simple you can do it in dress clothes from the top of the engine.

The oil probably can go close to the 16,000 miles (if all highway) but the oil filter is the weakest link. City driving means the oil may not reach a high enough temperature to destroy sludge/particulates. Especially for repeated short trips of less than 5 miles or repeated short trips less than 10 miles with the outside temperature below freezing.

The AJ133/126 uses timing chain tensioners that rely on oil pressure. Vehicles that follow the LR service guide of 1yr/16,000 miles for oil and filter may need timing chains, timing tensioners, and other parts before they would be due had a more frequent oil change interval been performed in the same driving conditions.

JLR spec for the oil has changed several times. Originally it was 5w-20. Then timing chains, guides and other crank components were oil starved during cold winter starts so it was changed to 0w-20 (in 2 different versions).

The latest spec is attached as of February 2018 it is now STJLR 03.5006 - that meets the latest spec excluding certain cold climate markets that still use the previous 0w-20 STJLR 51.5122. So far I have only found Castrol or LiquidMoly TopTech 6600 that meets STJLR 03.5006. You can find the previous spec by Castrol, Motul, or LiquidMoly LRTech meeting the older STJLR 51.5122.

I have yet to determine if there is any difference between the 2 specs. I currently have LiquidMoly LRTech (51.5122) and for my next change I'll use LiquidMoly TopTech 6600 (03.5006) to see if I notice any difference. I mostly do repeated short trips and some highway.
 

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2010 SC 5.0 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I would change it at 5 K mile intervals oil is cheap compared to the valve train components.
4K miles if you do a lot of stop and go
 

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2013 Autobiography RRS 5.0SC...L322 03 Vogue 4.4lt
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I change mine at 5K kilometres...as you say oil is cheap as apposed to engine repairs and paying for parts, so what's a filter and a couple of gallons of oil aye.
 

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2010 SC 5.0 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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think of this,
someone get a lease truck and follows the FROCI,
thats a change every 16k miles,
at 48K miles its had 3 oil changes.
Would you want a truck with a service history like that?
I certainly wouldnt,
working in a shop its easy to see the many problems created from long oil change intervals,
VS the cars that get frequent servicing.
usually oil issues effect the valve train components first,
followed by the engine seals and then crank and rod bearings.
Like I said oil is cheap compared to replacing all 4 cam phasers and timing chain and guide system.
 

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2010 SC 5.0 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Fuddy with a new engine it will last longer if you lower the oil change interval,
I suggest 5K ESP if its a SC engine.
NOTE since these are direct injection engines using cleaner oil will result in longer valve seal life,
and thus the intake valves will stay cleaner longer before the supercharger has to come off and clean the intake valves.
 

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2013 Autobiography RRS 5.0SC...L322 03 Vogue 4.4lt
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532 Posts
I just had a rebuilt 0 mile engine put it. First oil change was at 1k miles. 2nd at 5k, now all changes will be at 6k.
What happened to the engine to warrant you build a 0 mile engine and fit...i understand it's a big expense and no one would want to go through that.
After reading that i had a thought of re-evaluating my oci's...i think it's too late if any ware is done from before my ownership it would be evident already so i can just keep the clean oil up to the engine for now and hope the chain and top end gear is safe from ware.
All the best with that new engine fuddy...i'm sure you're on the right oci to keep it safe.
 

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2014 Range Rover Sport Autobiography
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219 Posts
What happened to the engine to warrant you build a 0 mile engine and fit...i understand it's a big expense and no one would want to go through that.
After reading that i had a thought of re-evaluating my oci's...i think it's too late if any ware is done from before my ownership it would be evident already so i can just keep the clean oil up to the engine for now and hope the chain and top end gear is safe from ware.
All the best with that new engine fuddy...i'm sure you're on the right oci to keep it safe.
My engine threw the chain, so I got a rebuilt engine from tapa in california. I covered it here: Engine replacement - 2014 Autobiography
 
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