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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Atlantic British shows two different parts for the Bosch radiators:

PCC106850 - without SAI (Secondary Air Ingection)
PCC108080 - with SAI


Rock Auto shows the same part for both:
NISSENS 64319A {#PCC106850, PCC108080}

If somebody could please let me know what is the difference between the two radiators? I am a lot more familiar with the SAI on P38 Range rover than I would like to be (I have just replaced coils, plugs and plug wires on my P38 with SAI). As far as I know the SAI does not connect to the radiator.

Is Nissens a good brand? Seems to be the more expensive option. Who makes a good radiator for P38? Any reasonably priced heavy duty all-aluminum options? Years ago I fabricated a few myself, but I had a lot more time available for projects back then... I would buy one for a few hundred, but for $600 I'll find time to make my own.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #2
I see Denso for $102 and Koyo for $96 on Partsgeek. I have used both before on other cars, these are decent brands. Does anybody here have any experience with their Range Rover product? Nissens seems like a premium option that's $75 more. There is also Spectra Premium on Summit for $150.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #3
Denso and Koyo are labeled as "Radiator - rear" and the pictures look nothing like P38 radiator. Neither manufacturer lists a Land Rover/Range Rover radiator in their catalog. Probably an error on the parts of partgeek. What's a "radiator-rear" on a P38 anyway? Their "radiator" options look like legit P38 radiators, but they are more expensive.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,242 Posts
If you dont want to spend the extra $75 to have a reliable radiator, then dont. I've used Nissen in various Rover's and never had a problem.
As far as aluminum radiators go, yes there was an option until he got sick of the "I want custom stuff but want to pay off the shelf prices" crowd. I know the feeling all to well unfortunately. How anyone can think that having custom parts made, for a relatively rare vehicle is cheap, is beyond me. IIRC the radiators were in the neighborhood of @$600, were not some home made junk, and worked flawlessly.
Of course, ten minutes using the search function would have netted you the same information too....... Maybe give it a go sometime.

Martin
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #5
If you dont want to spend the extra $75 to have a reliable radiator, then dont. I've used Nissen in various Rover's and never had a problem.

Martin
Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. I ordered the Nissen radiator. Nissen has an iffy reputation in the BMW community, so I wasn't sure about the quality of their Rover radiator. I used Koyo and Denso on a lot of cars and never had a problem. Unfortunately the supposed "availability" of these for the P38 seems to be a catalog screw-up by the vendor. All other options I saw in $100 range were junk. I used Canadian Spectra premium and they were great. Some of their radiators are re-branded Koyo, and they are great too. I have never used one on the Land Rover, so I have no clue where they source them.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,242 Posts
Ive got them from Amazon without issue, for the '98,'03 & '11. All Nissen.
I'm debating going back to stock on my LS Rover, the aluminum isnt cooling in hot weather with the AC on. Lot to be said for a quality stock item IMHO.
hp97done.jpg
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #7
Ive got them from Amazon without issue, for the '98,'03 & '11. All Nissen.
I'm debating going back to stock on my LS Rover, the aluminum isnt cooling in hot weather with the AC on. Lot to be said for a quality stock item IMHO.
That's a pretty awesome setup you have there with the LS motor. I am a big fan of the LS, I had a C5 corvette for many years. If memory serves, the original P38 radiator was made by Behr, but they don't make them any more. While it was a quality option for the Rover, the BMW people generally throw the Behr radiators away and replace them with custom aluminum units. The stock BMW Behr radiator has a pretty bad reputation. But then, given the design of the BMW cooling system, so would any other brand.

Back when I had time on my hands for projects like this, I did fabricate a some custom radiators. It's a lot easier than people think. You don't even need to to TIG weld anything, with the right kind of rod you can braze them using a MAPP torch (the new MAPP substitute gas will work fine for this application). It's kind'a like oxy-acetylene welding, except different metal, rod and temperature. Cleanliness is key, if the surfaces are not perfectly clean it won't work (neither will TIG or any other kind of welding). I used cardboard for making templates based on original radiator tanks, then slapped them on aluminum sheet, traced them with a marker and cut the part from sheet. Good quality hole saw bit will go through aluminum sheet like knife through butter, making nice round holes for the pipes. The cores, bungs and pipe ends are all available online. Once you figure out how to braze weld aluminum, it's not hard, just time consuming. The upside is that you can make the radiator exactly to your liking. I suspect that if you start with an appropriately sized three-row core, it will be more than adequate. I went from a stock 2-row to a 3-row core on a souped up Dodge 5.9 and it ran perfectly cool smack in the middle of Death Valley, crawling at pedestrian speed with AC on. If that's not torture test, I don't know what is :) In the spirit of full disclosure, the rig ran two good sized electrical fans, none of that engine driven viscous coupling silliness.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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This is a double pass, and kinda junk IMO.
I have a TIG welder, along with MIG and a spool gun, and stick, and plasma cutter, and so on.
I am running a single electric Taurus fan and a high flow PRW pump. I'll try a stock pump and change the radiator this winter.
Ive used Behr and never had a problem, but thats in stock stuff....
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #9
You clearly have the equipment (provided its the right kind of TIG for welding thin aluminum) and the skills. I would be curious to know why you would not want to make a radiator for yourself. You probably know something I don't, and I am always happy to learn more.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Its a Lincoln square wave TIG 200, so good for anything.
Never even contemplated making my own, that's the only reason lol
I'll have to look around for the tanks, core, etc

Martin
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #11
Griffin sells cores for sure, probably other stuff as well. Wizard cooling sells all kids of parts for this project.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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I'll look into them for sure, thanks for the heads up!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #13
Scotty has provided this valuable info, that I would like to put in this thread:

The Bosch 2001 to 2002 were the only rover to that had the temp sensor in the lower tank on the radiator.

99 Bosch is the year that did not have Secondary Air. The 2000-2002 did have Secondary Air.

I suppose that the difference in radiators is due to the temp sensor. It also explains why Nissens has one radiator for both applications. They probably have a plug that you can remove if you need to install a sensor.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I just changed mine out. They do have a removable plug for the early Bosch P-38's without secondary air. Just unscrewed the plug ind installed the sensor. No issues.
 

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Administrator
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Dead on Markin. Bosch aftermarket radiators all have the sensor hole. You either remove the plug for the sensor (if fitted) or leave it your SAI system does not have the sensor. The sensor part number ERR2081 and is a radiator output temperature sensor fitted to some 4.0 and 4.6 in later P38s and some Disco IIs with SAI.
 
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