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Discussion Starter #1
I could not find this data in Rave? Can someone tell me on the 2004 L322 how many PSI you should see AFTER time goes by? There must be some leak down specification so I can tell if I have a leaking injector???

I have had hard starts in the past and also experiencing heavy fuel odor, however the odor even exists while driving, and no other engine codes exist - but I want to rule out injector leakdown (if someone can provide the above details).

Thanks!
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Nothing listed in Alldata neither, weird.
Gives the pressure, but no leak down vs time, like it does for other rigs.


Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can anyone test this for us? Or anyone have experience on this on the L322? I'm sure there's lots of deviation so we better know what L322 really does in leakdown.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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If I remember, I can hook up the gauge to the wife's 2003 when she returns.
 

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I'm assuming you mean the fuel rail pressure with the engine running. If so, the pressure is electronically regulated so there should be no reduction in pressure with time as the regulator would compensate for any reduction.

If the pressure does reduce below the set point because there is no room left to compensate there would be something that needs to be repaired and you will get a fault code as the ECU finds that it cannot maintain the proper pressure.
 

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I'm assuming you mean the fuel rail pressure with the engine running.
No. A leak down test as noted above is for confirming that anti flow back valves, injectors and pressure regulators are operating properly. This is done stationary with engine off usually using three tests for an average.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Correct Toadhall, i'm looking to test my injectors as i'm having some cabin and exterior smell of fuel, and finding a fair bit of fuel in my intake..... only way to rule out the injectors or other checkvalves is to test against the rail with some known figures; but the book doesn't show it.... so experience of others may be what i need to know, anyone willing to conduct another leakdown test for us would be great.

again, my data: 50PSI (from memory, it was book value) at idle...... drops to 0psi at exactly 30 minutes of sitting engine off. It seems all cars are different leakdown results from my google searches.

-Brendan
 

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This system should never drop no 0psi, and certainly not in a half hour.

I don't think there was ever a published value, but overnight you should be holding over 15psi in the rail to keep from having startup issues.

If you're smelling gas, and have fuel sitting in your intake manifold(sure it's not oil?) you need to pull the rail and check. If you have one injector leaking that much, you run the risk of hydrolocking your engine if that injector's valves are open when you shut off.

Fuel pump is the more common source of pressure sinking down.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the msg Dave, it's fuel - it smells strong, and was leaking out past the gasket on the throttle body to the first plastic intake piece and out.

If I 'pull the rail and check' , what are you recommending I check? I've never pulled a rail, are you saying if I lift the rail all the injectors come out with it and i can pressurize the rail and visually inspect all the injectors somehow?
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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You can pull the fuel rails, and the injectors will come out of the intake. Just be careful as there are o rings on the bottom that form a seal to the intake.
You can then put shop towel over the holes and turn the ignition to number II position to energize the fuel pump relay, while watching for any fuel leaking out of an injector. I put blue shop towel under them after they are dried off, then it's a dead giveaway if one is hanging open. You can also check the upper injector seals too, in case the o rings up there are bad.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thx martin, are those o-rings reusable if i am careful and use oring lube on them to reinsert them, or do i need replacements on-hand?
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Have I reused them? Yep. Should you, if you follow the correct procedures? Nope.
Never had a problem myself, but i inspect them thoroughly.
Be sure the cap is on the bottom of the injector, it sits under the o ring and is a fiber like material. They like to break if you have to wiggle them too much.
Lubricate them with clean engine oil before putting them back in.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #13
...I can get the o-ring from the dealer and even the distributors; but I was told by Atlantic British that the fiber cap you reference is not available except the dealer; the dealer only shows top and bottom o-rings.

.. so what have YOU done when one of those fiber caps break on you? Since i can't find them i don't know what to do or where to source them. Anyone have a source for that?
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Not dealt with it on the mkIII, but on other rigs I can get them online. I have also, if lots are broken, just got them rebuilt/flow matched, or bought new ones.
 

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Are folks possibly becoming scattered on this topic? A simply fibre washer has NOTHING to do with an injector leaking down. It will have nothing to do with a failed nonreturn valve either. The root topic is a fuel smell across a couple of live topics now.

OP, a failed upper ORing, fibre washer or poorly seated injector will cause problems with vacuum leak, not overfueling.

A failed Upper ORing on an injector will cause constant leaking and you would see puddles of fuel, streaking and discolouration at which ever injector/injectors have a failed upper ORing.

A failing/filthy/dirty injector will not full close upon end of signal cycle. It will drop/ooze/leak into the cylinder. There will be NO signs above at the fuel rail. As noted in the other live thread you will have signs on your plugs, O2 codes on that bank or both, misfire codes and at an extreme your oil dip stick will smell like petrol.
 
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