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Discussion Starter #1
i had locked the suspension in access height on accident the other day (by pushing & holding down the lower suspension button). didn't realize it was a feature, but i'm wondering what it's for since when i drive off i still get the slow down or vehicle will raise message on the display. about the only thing i could think of is something related to towing something. sounds like it would prevent an incidental hit of the suspension up button and force a deliberate push & hold to raise it back up. any ideas on why this would be useful?

p.s. i noticed it's only for access height & unavailable for offroad height. i tried various combinations to see if i could lock it in any of the other heights. then i saw the lil lock icon near the down arrow. i'm SO sharp these days.
 

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Nope, to lock access height you need to hold the button down a few seconds, until the little icon lights up. If you don't, the suspensions will go back up to normal height almost right away when you start moving again. Locking access height allows you to drive around lowered, as long as you keep it under 20 mph.
 

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umbertob said:
Nope, to lock access height you need to hold the button down a few seconds, until the little icon lights up. If you don't, the suspensions will go back up to normal height almost right away when you start moving again. Locking access height allows you to drive around lowered, as long as you keep it under 20 mph.
Yup the locked at access height gives you a 20 mph limit and regular access height gives you a 8 or 10 mph limit.
 

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How is it possible to lock the lowered mode without reseting to the normal mode so that you can drive lowered no matter what speed?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
not possible without using a tool like GAP or LLAMS to recalibrate "normal" to a lower height
 

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not possible without using a tool like GAP or LLAMS to recalibrate "normal" to a lower height
Thanks! Do you think driving in the lowered mode could cause any problems because of the low air pressure? Or should it work just fine?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
depends on how much you're lowering it. can't speak for the LLAMS, but during initial calibration, the GAP tool determines the upper/lower limits you can raise/lower the vehicle based on your vehicle's specific. i'd be less worried about lower air pressure in the struts and more worried tempting fate with the geometries of the vehicle. lower too much and you could bottom out on a pothole at the right speed. the vehicle would think an obstacle was encountered and try to raise the vehicle up. you might even experience rubbing depending on the size tires you're running. i'm running 285/60-18 (with a bunch of extra weight from RS sliders & a skid plate) and i went ~6 months with normal height adjusted somewhere between -5mm and -10mm. noticed modest mpg gain, but did bottom out on potholes every now & then. i think i only stopped running that setup once i upgraded from the original beta GAP tool to the BT one and never bothered re-creating the profile. ymmv but i think it's worth experimenting with.
 

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I drive my RRS with LLAMs at 20mm below onroad height and the ride is OK - if you tried to drive at the equivalent of Access Height the ride is unbearable - wheel travel is non existent and every decent bump goes through the chassis and body not the suspension.

Garry
 

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I think whatever height you drive in all the time, wheel alignment must be done at that height, besides issues described by other posters, you'd be eating those tires up unevenly and likely have handling issues too.
 

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Logically you are quite correct - however with the suspension that is fitted, in theory the wheels remain vertical and retain their alignment but the reality is different.

When I last changed my tyres I had a wheel alignment done with the suspension set an 20mm below onroad height. While the alignment at this height is different to the alignment at onroad height, at the lower height it is still well within the allowable wheel alignment tolerances for the vehicle.

I do not suffer any abnormal wear on my tyres but I do agree that you should get an alignment done for the height you normally operate at.

Cheers

Garry
 
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