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Discussion Starter #1
Its been sitting for a few weeks while I have been trying to figure out why it is overheating, and I notice it is sinking down.
Looks like its a square leakdown... ie its not front or rear or any side... but now I see that it is I will measure it over time.
I recently replaced all the o rings in the valveblock and the pump seals.
Its been a week since it last ran and I left it in HIGH... now I see it was close to access or maybe on the bumps.

I wondered if there is an "acceptable" amount of EAS leakdown over a period of time or if I have a problem still?
 

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"Normal" is a relative phrase. As "designed" it would be zero. I am sure however it is more likely to leak a little as a matter of "common". My rig sat for almsot three months at wading height while I rebuilt the engine and did a few other things. I would be very surprised if she dropped more than a cm in that time. My components are about three years old with 60K+miles save for a replaced driver pack.
 

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none,... mine sat for 9 months while awaiting engine rebuild - did not drop more than an inch.
 

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Mine has sat for a few weeks at at time without dropping anything noticeable.

Be sure you are on level ground. If you really want to check leak-down, leave the hood open or a door ajar so the ECU doesn't "self-level" it down to the bumpstops.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
spikemd said:
Be sure you are on level ground. If you really want to check leak-down, leave the hood open or a door ajar so the ECU doesn't "self-level" it down to the bumpstops.
I had her all locked up, so maybe thats it.
I didnt know the hood being up stops the EAS self leveling, I thought it was only the doors and tailgate...
 

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KeyRange said:
I didnt know the hood being up stops the EAS self leveling, I thought it was only the doors and tailgate...
I think that's correct, as it'll go up/down (engine running) with the hood up, but not doors/tailgate.
 

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mine seems to have a mind of its own - its gone down to bumpstops in as little as as 2 hours, then again about the longest it has stayed "up" is a week. Seems to be happier is parked on uneven ground.

I know my issue is a valve block rebuild which I have been putting off for ages....

When my classic was in for a transfer case replacement it sat for 2 weeks and went from high to about highway level, the place who had it said it was the best one they had ever seen.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I am puzzled...
Some days it goes down in an hour to flat on the bumps, and other days it sits high and proud no probs.
I did the valve block, and pump unless I missed something or did something wrong..
I have parked it and been working in the garage close to it and not heard the "ting ting" of the valves self leveling...

Ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have just been looking at it...
The pump is running too much... it runs, then shuts off for maybe 10 secs and then runs again.
I can see a very small micro-bubble leak at the pipe joint on the top of the dryer, but I can hear a hissing noise in the area of the EAS box/dryer zone.
The problem is that I cannot hear it with the engine running, and when i turn off, the EAS pump goes off... and the hiss tapers off within 20sec..
A search with soapy water showed nothing on the pipes..
A search listening with a length of hose, narrowed it down to the area between the EAS Box and dryer again, but cant feel or see a leak.
As the hiss dies away, I can hear a pulsing to it..
Does that give anyone clues?
 

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jumper relay#20 in the engine bay fuse box, the compressor will run with the engine off, should let you track down the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I think I figured out the noise...
Getting my GF to come out and run/stop the engine for me gave me more time to listen...
The noise of rushing air/leaking is coming from the pipes to and from the Dryer....
I cannot find a leak, but the noise is apparent for about 15 secs AFTER the pump switches off.
Seems that its the pressure in the air line from the pump to the dryer is venting.
If I listen carefully you can hear a pulsing in the air noise, that slows and fades as the pressure drops.
Is this normal?

Thanks for the help Dennis btw, oh, and do you have those air pressure gauges back in stock yet?
 

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KeyRange said:
I think I figured out the noise...
Getting my GF to come out and run/stop the engine for me gave me more time to listen...
The noise of rushing air/leaking is coming from the pipes to and from the Dryer....
I cannot find a leak, but the noise is apparent for about 15 secs AFTER the pump switches off.
Seems that its the pressure in the air line from the pump to the dryer is venting.
If I listen carefully you can hear a pulsing in the air noise, that slows and fades as the pressure drops.
Is this normal?

Thanks for the help Dennis btw, oh, and do you have those air pressure gauges back in stock yet?
Sounds like a diaphragm with a weak spring to me. What do you think, Dennis?
 

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If the air's going through the dryer than it's probably escaping through the silencer. Have you tried removing it, to check if you're loosing air after the compressor stops or while during its operation ?
 

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the compressor discharge and dryer circuit vent to near 0 after the compressor stops, if you remove the exhaust muffler you'll hear a blast of air, then a slight hiss as it finishes. The spring on the diaphragm will keep about 20 PSI in the circuit. If you can hear it, likely the leak is that last 20 psi coming out where it shouldn't, either a hole in the line, or the orings where the lines go in. with the compressor running, wiggle the 8mm lines to/from the dryer, if it's the orings you'll hear it, if it's a cracked line, you'll hear it.

No gages, I've had to switch several distributors when I moved, the gages fell through the cracks... I'll work on them today.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I did notice the lower line going into the dryer gives a little hiss when I wiggle it, so the O ring maybe toast... I gotta find the pack of O rings... not sure where they went after my move!

I have a gauge floating around somewhere... where do you plumb it in, between the pump and valve block, or by the tank?
I think its good to 160psi, what is the system pressure?
 

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KeyRange said:
I did notice the lower line going into the dryer gives a little hiss when I wiggle it, so the O ring maybe toast... I gotta find the pack of O rings... not sure where they went after my move!

I have a gauge floating around somewhere... where do you plumb it in, between the pump and valve block, or by the tank?
I think its good to 160psi, what is the system pressure?

150psi max if your pressure switch is working.
Otherwise 200psi if it has to vent thru' the pressure relief valve.
Else....KABOOM
 

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:lol: Depending on the rig that might be a good thing. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
shupack said:
the compressor discharge and dryer circuit vent to near 0 after the compressor stops, if you remove the exhaust muffler you'll hear a blast of air, then a slight hiss as it finishes. The spring on the diaphragm will keep about 20 PSI in the circuit. If you can hear it, likely the leak is that last 20 psi coming out where it shouldn't, either a hole in the line, or the orings where the lines go in. with the compressor running, wiggle the 8mm lines to/from the dryer, if it's the orings you'll hear it, if it's a cracked line, you'll hear it.

So, with the system full and pressurised, if I pull the silencer off the compressor, and shut off, I should NOT feel any air flowing back from the silencer?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Came out to it this am... it was on the bumps.
Ran the engine with a door open fro maybe 5 mins.
Shut the door and it jumped up to normal height.
Pulled the silencer off the compressor, and killed the engine... It windy here today, but I could feel no air flowing back from silencer hole.
The hissing sound was again loud around the dryer for 20 secs and it faded away.
Restarted the engine...
What I noted is that the compressor runs for maybe 30 secs, then stops... then after maybe 5 secs it restarts and runs for 30 secs... and stops for 5 secs... and repeats this over and over.
Clearly I have a leak!
Could it be in the body of the dryer?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Still no sign of a leak...
I drove it today and did notice something odd...
Whe it pumped itself up, and we got on the freeway, it lowered to freeway mode fine, but when we came to a stop, it stayed at freeway height.. When I bumped the switch up one notch, it went up to normal.
This was not a one off issue, it does this every time..
Just searching for clues.
 
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