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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

What engine oil (brand & viscosity) are you using and how often do you change it?


Me, I'm using Penrite HPR 30 (20W-60). Its a mineral with a high zinc content, which is essential for Rover V8s. A lot of Aussie Land Rover owners use the Penrite range.

I change it every 5000kms (3000 miles) or annually. Not much of a consumption problem, the oil level on the dipstick only drops a few mm between changes.
 

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Using Unipart/Partsco (they are the original Leyland parts suppliers now a private company) 5w40 fully synthetic £17 for 5L. Bargain. I wil be changing it once a year.

:pray:
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,113 Posts
Castrol GTX 10W40 summer, 10W30 winter, changed every 3000 miles. 160K miles on engine, 30K on recon'd heads. Oil is dark gold at 3000 miles, maybe 1/2 quart eaten/leaked between oil changes.
 

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Castrol GTX high milage 10-40. Wix filters. Change it every 2500 miles. Im at 230,000 miles so I figured it cant hurt to change it before 3000miles. Im doing 9000miles a month so I change often.
 

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I use whatever is on sale. Having picked the brains of a lot of mechanics over the years, I've come to the conclusion it is not AS important what oil you use as it is the frequecy in which you change it. I change mine every 1500 - 2000 miles. I've got 171,000 on the 4.2L and its never had any engine work done. Runs like a top and doesn't leak a drop of oil......anymore (that accomplishment took me nearly a year).


Just did an oil and filter change today. The Rover will be running a synthetic blend for the next 1500 miles. Got it on sale for $11.50 for 6 quarts.


Colin
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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138 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I had issues with the Fram filters, the oil light would take 10 seconds to go out on a cold start. I changed to a Mahle oil filter after 2000 kms on the oil and the problem went away, light goes out immediatley. I won't touch Fram anything again!

I might try the Wix filters next time, I know someone who can get them 40% off. They are also quite larger; more filtration capacity.

All you guys running 10W oils all from cold areas? New Zealand is quite temperate so I'm sticking with the 20W, although a 10W or 15W would be better on startup. Most of my driving is done on the highway.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Butt cold! Have had days in the winter when I'd have to leave the vehicle in the sun to get her warmed up enough to turn over. Reptilian... Use K&N filter HP3001 (long). Expensive, but love the hex fitting when it comes to removing them.
 

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Mobil1 full syth. 10-30 winter 10-40 summer. I change oil/filter in spring and then in fall(3-5000mls). Fram actually was sued due to a manufacturing defect that blew up several motors in US years ago. I still use them because there's not much choice otherwise.
 

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I use Kendal 5W-50 full synthetic oil and maybe around 5000km is now..used to be 10000km/1 year..Now i use that 5K because lower kilometers as i have bought a Rover P6 for summertime vehicle :D

Rgds:Jukka
RR92 Westminster 4.6efi
-73 Rover P6 3500Si
 

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I too use whatever oil is cheapest, but I'm a little picky about the oil filter. I change oil twice a year, in early Spring and in the Fall. I last used NAPA dino oil, and I usually use NAPA oil filters since they are made by Wix, which seem to be well made.

I'm of the old school who believes that non-turbocharged engines can get along on just about any modern oil. The type of oil isn't as important as changing it before the oil is "used up." I usually use 10W-40 in Oregon's non-taxing climate. We seldom get to even 10°F in the wintertime, but we do hit 100°F several days in the summertime.

Scott
 

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20w60!!!! never even saw anything that thick, but here in Canada we dont need it. I stick to 10w40 whatever i can find, castrol or quakerstate. I dont cheap out on the lifeblood of my engine too much, exceswsively good is a waste. the engine was designed 20 years ago and ANY oil is a big improvement over original
 

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Bandit, the engine was designed by Buick fifty years ago. It was redesigned by British Leyland forty years ago, with constant redesign until they pulled it out of production only a five years ago.

Scott
 

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TehPriest said:
Using Unipart/Partsco (they are the original Leyland parts suppliers now a private company) 5w40 fully synthetic £17 for 5L. Bargain. I wil be changing it once a year.

:pray:

once a year????
 

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CSK said:
Hi,

What engine oil (brand & viscosity) are you using and how often do you change it?


Me, I'm using Penrite HPR 30 (20W-60). Its a mineral with a high zinc content, which is essential for Rover V8s. A lot of Aussie Land Rover owners use the Penrite range.

I change it every 5000kms (3000 miles) or annually. Not much of a consumption problem, the oil level on the dipstick only drops a few mm between changes.
I would think that HPR30 is a little thick for NZ, I use HPR 15.
I am only changing oils every 10,000kms. It appears to be a reasonable timeframe when a good oil is used.
 

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There are two parameters for changing your oil. One is how quickly the oil itself breaks down with heat and age, but the other is how quickly your filter plugs up with filtered particles and then opens its bypass valve. Modern synthetic oils can last a lot longer than dino oils because they don't carbonize under heat as quickly, but filters fill and plug up with particulates from many sources. You've really got to trust your filter to go for a year between changes. Twenty years ago Mobil 1 ads used to advertise covering 12,000 mi. between oil changes, but I could never trust that any oil filter could last that long. Friends of mine experimented with this idea by changing filters twice a year and changing synthetic oil once a year. I used synthetic oil but stuck to the OEM oil change intervals.

On the other hand, driving only 10,000 km or 6200 mi. per year isn't an extreme duration between oil changes. It's about the number of miles my Rover covers between each of the two oil changes I perform on it in a year.

Scott
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Castrol GTX 20w50 year around. We only have a couple of months where it gets cold enough to be concerned about weight. Of course with all the global warming (sarcasm) lately I'm thinking about a lighter weight in winter.

I use a Wix filter and when not available I use NAPA Gold (made by Wix).

3000 miles. Change the oil. I've never had trouble with any vehicle I've done that with. I've been told that is too frequent but why tempt fate? I drove a 1993 Ford Ranger pickup with Castrol and 3000 mile changes and that truck's engine was still bulletproof at 185,000 miles. No smoke, no oil burning. I'm 187,000 on my Range Rover Classic...I loose about 1/2 a quart at 3000 miles.
 

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Rotella 15w50 every 2500 miles (just easier for me to remember the mileage in 2500 mile increments). Check out the oil discussions on Discoweb.org discovery and general sections. These engines require a high temperature high sheer rating of 3.5 or higher..because of the flat tappets if I remember correctly. Anyway, people who know a hell of a lot more about this than me provide some great information in both threads.
 
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