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Discussion Starter #1
I have a vague idea of what the Becm does and am worried mine is fried, but just wanted to check on everything it does as it seems expensive and tricky to replace.

Does it control the message centre? (this works fine)
Does the EAS go through it? (I have an EAS unlock cable and expected it to work without the engine running but it doesn't)

All the Electrics such as the Windows, Sunroof, RCL ect all work fine are these through the Becm?


My main fault is that the Becm isn't activating the relay to activate the Starter Motor, but the EAS not responding concerned me too.

Is there a fuse or something I have overlooked which may just need reconnecting to get it all to work?!

Am I correct that when the becm loses synch with the ecu that the engine still cranks but won't fire?

Am I also correct that the Gems motor doesn't suffer from the lost synch?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Some good reading there thanks!

Will double check the MAXI fuses to make sure they are all OK.

Failing that it looks like I'll have to strip the becm down.

As a further thought how does the start inhibitor switch on the auto gearbox work and how can it be tested / overridden to rule it out?
 

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sotal said:
Some good reading there thanks!

Will double check the MAXI fuses to make sure they are all OK.

Failing that it looks like I'll have to strip the becm down.

As a further thought how does the start inhibitor switch on the auto gearbox work and how can it be tested / overridden to rule it out?
Do you get the gear position indicated on the the message centre.If so there is a good chance your gear selector interlock switch is working.

If sync is lost the motor should not turn over when trying to start.
Gems is not prone to losing sync as are the Bosch versions.

Stripping the BECM is not so simple.It is a complex piece of electronics and circuit diagrams are not available.

If you do not get any immobilized messages on the message centre and your starter motor turns if you apply 12V directly to it,then it is possible a physical wire somewhere between BECM and ECM may be damaged. :pray:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not sure if gear indicator is shown will check tonight,

All MAXI fuses where fine when I just checked them

Other than that the only thing I noticed was that the ECU next to the fuse box in the engine bay has writing on it saying it was replaced in 2005 - not sure if that would have any impact?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I also read that the message centre should display "Select Neutral" if you try in gear - mine doesn't if that makes any difference.
 

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The BECM is god, as far as you are concerened.
Worship it, make sacrifices and please it. Do not
under any circumstances consider yourself above
the BECM. Simply submit to it's wishes and demands.
 

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q-rover said:
The BECM is god, as far as you are concerened.
Worship it, make sacrifices and please it. Do not
under any circumstances consider yourself above
the BECM. Simply submit to it's wishes and demands.
:lol: :thumb: This is very true, sacrificing a Toyota used to be the prefered route however Escalades are moving up on the list of appropriate offerings.
 

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This post is how it should be done clearly a newbie joins the forum asks a question most of us know the answer to but instead of salcastic comments upboardin posts a link to were more information can be found. This is how a Range Rover forum should always work `)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yep that link provided most of the answers about the BeCM.

Right now I'm quite happy as I've managed to sort the issue and it wasn't BeCM related!

I decided to take the fuse box out and take it apart for 3 reasons:
1 - so I could trace the wire better which the BeCM is supposed to ground to enable the relay for the starter
2 - so I could check for any obvious signs of damage inside the fuse box as I'd seen on here
3 - the fuse box looked easier to take apart than the BeCM

On stripping the fuse box I tested each and every fuse electrically rather than relying on them being visually OK - they all checked out fine. I stripped the fuse box down and inspected the board inside - all looked fine. So I traced the pin from the relay back to the connector underneath so I could check that out further later. I then reassembled the fuse box and put all the fuses and relays back in.

I connected it all back up, connected the battery up - turned the key to position II and the fuel pump kicked in (I presume it was fuel pump but it was a bit noisy) - the fuel pump has never kicked in before. Turning the key to position III now has the desired effect of turning the engine over `)

Just got to finish putting a few bits on and fill with coolant and I'll be ready for a real test! :dance:

Not 100% sure what the fault was, no connectors looked dirty and everything was in firmly

Thanks again for the help and advice :thumb:
 

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Congrats on figuring it out, those electrical problems can be a bugger. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
upboardin said:
Congrats on figuring it out, those electrical problems can be a bugger. :)
Not sure I 'figured it out' just got lucky I think! `)
 

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Sounds to me like you made some of your own luck by jumping in with both hands and doing some good troubleshooting. Good luck with the rest of the project.
 

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sotal said:
upboardin said:
Congrats on figuring it out, those electrical problems can be a bugger. :)
Not sure I 'figured it out' just got lucky I think! `)

Relays relays relays.......

After many on offs relays contatct pads build up resistence on this area, they only last so long, a relay can be tested working ok but its the contact area is that very very often overlooked
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Don't think it was down to the relays, but it may be - I had swapped all the relays around before and swapped know good ones for unknown (basically the ones with the fan symbol always clicked so I swapped those with all the others to test but it still didn't work) Don't know what it was with stripping it down that fixed it!

As an upshot I also noticed that the Airbag Fault has dissapeared since and so has the ABS Fault, the only fault left now is the EAS Hard Fault, and I have the unlock cable and software ready to try for that.
 
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