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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has been covered before; couldn't find it in a hurry. I have a hard Fault that is not clearing using the EAS buddy V1. Going to hook up the computer see what faults are set. Once that is sorted; I like to recalibrate my EAS. Would using 2X2 wood blocks with bump stops attached cause a problem?. Other option is to make the calibrating blocks out of steel pipe to get inside the bump stops. If latter what diameter steel pipe? Any other suggestions? Sorry to sound lazy, just did the intake manifold gasket, Ball joints and axle seals. Just feeling OTT with the Hate side outweighing the love side of the love hate relationship with this mechanical beast with the dark side.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I don't think it matters that much.
I originally made a set from hard wood 100mm / 105 mm F/R. Just simple blocks. Bit awkward to keep in place.
Later I turned some from Nylon 66 as per Ron Becketts drawing that fit inside the bump stops to stop them falling out. (I shortened them to 100/105 since the drawing is only for Testbook).
They just need to sit between the axle and the metal seat inside the bump stop.
Take a bump stop off to measure it. Mine was a bit loose using Ron Becketts drawing.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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If you fabricate the "blocks" from steel tubing there's a possibility that one end will flare given the shape of the bump stop stub. I suggest you purchase a length of hardwood dowel from a timber store - measure the diameter of the opening in bottom of the rubber bump stop and select the dowel size as close as possible -preferably slightly (1/8" or 3mm) larger. Simply cut the lengths accordingly. It also pays to put a slight chamfer on the top edge of the dowel block to ease it through the bump stop. Provided you let the vehicle down slowly, the hardwood blocks work very well:thumb:
 
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