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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

I'm in the (probably long and drawn out) process of trying to source my L322 battery drain (yes another one) and having done the heater hedgehog & replaced the battery I am now focussing on the boot electronics.

I stripped out the gubbins in the left hand side of the spare wheel and I'm trying to figure out what exactly these tin boxes are. The black DVD is obvious, but below that are two silver tin boxes, one of these has two connector blocks on the top (one blue, one white) and a pair of small co-ax type connectors. I've opened both these boxes looking for water damage, all looks pristine. It appears I have no CD multichanger as this area is empty and the connectors not plugged in to anything.

I had a badly fitted aftermarket TV and DVD player so I've removed this but I've noticed that one of the (video/antenna??) cables on one of the boxes has been crushed in the spare wheel sump. Can anyone suggest what these are?? Its the one highlighted in picture.....

Cheers
Video.JPG
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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2,316 Posts
Yes those are the coaxial aerial cables for the TV (which may be the original analogue unit so will no longer work)

Phil
 

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2,467 Posts
What year RR? For 03-05 most common battery drain issues are, FSR(already replaced, but if not OEM it can fail again quickly), condenser fan, headlamp wiper motors(very suspect if not resting at bottom of lights), Nav ECU, HVAC head, upper tailgate latch/striker adjustment, and I feel like I'm leaving out a big one...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Phil,
Thanks for the reply, yup, its original analogue. Good so I can safely leave them off without worrying about the damaged cable and keep on searching for the electron leak.....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dave,
Thanks for your reply, it's a 2002 facelift but I don't seem to have headlamp wipers. I've opened up the nav ECU to look for water damage, all 'looks' clean, tidy and dry. I've not heard about the tailgate striker adjustment as being a cause (despite hours of web trawling!) and am almost frightened to ask details of the BIG one.... Sounds expensive....

My P38 (which I still have) suffered from a MHz allergy from a wireless PiR in the farm yard, I got through two batteries before twigging it. Disconnected the PiR and the problem has never recurred.... I heard this isn't an issue with the L322?

I've knocked up an Arduino based current draw monitor to help narrow my search. This plugs into a fuse (in parallel ) and logs the current draw over time to a SD camera card which you can then open in Excel. It's a bit tedious as you can only do one fuse at a time, close the doors and wait for the ECU to sleep but its interesting to see how the current on each of the fuses I tested drops off after a few minutes (I guess when the brain falls asleep). Being a bit geeky I plotted the results on a graph and it looks like fuse 49 carries on drawing current after an initial drop off.

I'll post the results if anyone is interested and the arduino circuit design and program code if anyone wants it. Bear in mind that my coding isn't pure though, I'm a farmer not a computer programmer....

Cheers
Steve
 
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