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2009 L322 SC
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22 Posts
I really hope it works out. For me, by the time I pay for the CN900 mini and and the blade, and the transponder, and having it cut, I think the cost difference between that and the dealer would be less than $100. Given that I'd have to have it towed $100 miles to a dealer if I screw up my only working key, I took the safe, but slightly more expensive option. Please post your results here one way or the other. Good luck!
 

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2006 HSE full size 4.4
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25 Posts
Ill post em, the key won’t come until around end of July according to eBay but maybe it will come sooner, anyhow I don’t see an issue as many have swapped the internals over to new key housings and transferred the transponders without issue, but that only serves the purpose of having a new looking and feeling key fob, if I wanted to get a second working key I’d need to copy my transponder with the cn900 mini and proper cloning chip as the car won’t start without it copying my current transponder

anyhow like I said I’ll have 2 working keys cut to my car but only 1 transponder still so I can’t lose it or else I can’t start my car without the dealership intervening
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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174 Posts
Hi There,

I have just got the cn900 and a new key housing and a used fob.

When I put the key together with the coded chips and the used fob pub in the car won't start, but lock unlock from key still works

When I unsolder the grey inductive chip it starts and unlock lock works too.

Can someone tell me if the grey inductive coil is also the transponder? or is the transponder elsewhere on the original pub and it uses this cold to broadcast it?

I am trying to work out if I can buy the copper coils on the bow diamond shape key and solder it on so the key works as oem.


Cheers
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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1,165 Posts
CN900 shouldn't work on the older 02 to 05 trucks, unless its one of the late 05s with the touch screen radio display unit (VIN higher than 198058). The BMW AK90 is for the older vehicles, that is about 60 dollars any you have to pull the immobilizer out of the console and reprogram it to accept the new key chip code. The CN900 mini works on the 06 thru 09's, takes about 5 minutes to program a new chip, as long as you are using the CN3 chips, not the ones that come with the key fobs.
 

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Registered
2009 L322 SC
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22 Posts
Fun update on this topic. I purchased a new key ($246) from the "local" Land Rover dealer which is 100 miles away. It was back ordered, and took a month to arrive. I drove down there for the appointment to have it programmed. The tech looked at the new blade and compared it to my existing blade, and it was obvious that they weren't cut the same. The dealer was really embarrased and offered to cover the $150 programming cost, and is trying to source another key from LR and see if they could just get another blade to swap in. That was a month ago....still no word. Good thing I have a working key.... Really not the dealer's fault at all, they did everything right, and at the end of the day I got to drive 200 miles in my FF, and got a car wash out of the deal and a day off work.
 

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Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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174 Posts
CN900 shouldn't work on the older 02 to 05 trucks, unless its one of the late 05s with the touch screen radio display unit (VIN higher than 198058). The BMW AK90 is for the older vehicles, that is about 60 dollars any you have to pull the immobilizer out of the console and reprogram it to accept the new key chip code. The CN900 mini works on the 06 thru 09's, takes about 5 minutes to program a new chip, as long as you are using the CN3 chips, not the ones that come with the key fobs.

hi Mark

should have said it’s for an 07 supercharged - so back to my question on the original keys is that inductive coil also the transponder? If so I want to replace with a bmw inductive coil from the diamond key which should then charge it and not interfere with my cn3

cheers
 

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Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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1,165 Posts
What kind of soldered chip do you have in the FOB. The transponder is a little black chip that sits down by the blade of the key, in some cases its not visible, it sits under a small plastic cover down in the corner of the FOB. The coil that works with the immobilizer chip surrounds the ignition switch and is behind the switch bezel in the dash (in your case). That coil is activated when the ignition key is inserted into the ignition switch, it sends out a signal to the transponder and receives one back from the chip. If they match the immobilizer unlocks the steering column and if the column unlocks it sends a signal back to the ignition switch that pulls back a pin in the ignition switch so the key can turn, and sends a signal to the ECU to energize the starter solenoid.
 

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Registered
2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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1,165 Posts
What square key? Look at the pictures in post 31 and 21. #31 is my original key that was used in the 02-06 Range Rovers, the other one (or one very much like it) is used after 06. both have separate immobilizer chips in them and a separate door lock/unlock board (the part with the battery and 3 buttons) . The 02-05 chips (ID44) are slightly different than the later ones (ID46), its an internal difference though on the outside they are identical. This is one of those "square" keys in post #21 with the cover over the chip. The left side is the bottom of the FOB and that rubber looking part inside it that extends from the circle where the battery for the door lock board goes all the way to the upper right corner is a cover that is on top of the immobilizer chip slot, that you can see on post #21. That cover comes out, its there to keep the chip from falling out when you open the case. Not all of them have this cover, some just rely on the lock/unlock circuit board to keep the chip inplace.
288120

Got a picture of the FOB you are using, inside and out?
 

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Registered
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64 Posts
Fun update on this topic. I purchased a new key ($246) from the "local" Land Rover dealer which is 100 miles away. It was back ordered, and took a month to arrive. I drove down there for the appointment to have it programmed. The tech looked at the new blade and compared it to my existing blade, and it was obvious that they weren't cut the same. The dealer was really embarrased and offered to cover the $150 programming cost, and is trying to source another key from LR and see if they could just get another blade to swap in. That was a month ago....still no word. Good thing I have a working key.... Really not the dealer's fault at all, they did everything right, and at the end of the day I got to drive 200 miles in my FF, and got a car wash out of the deal and a day off work.
Ugh, glad the dealer stepped up for you and waived some of the costs.
 

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Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
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174 Posts
What square key? Look at the pictures in post 31 and 21. #31 is my original key that was used in the 02-06 Range Rovers, the other one (or one very much like it) is used after 06. both have separate immobilizer chips in them and a separate door lock/unlock board (the part with the battery and 3 buttons) . The 02-05 chips (ID44) are slightly different than the later ones (ID46), its an internal difference though on the outside they are identical. This is one of those "square" keys in post #21 with the cover over the chip. The left side is the bottom of the FOB and that rubber looking part inside it that extends from the circle where the battery for the door lock board goes all the way to the upper right corner is a cover that is on top of the immobilizer chip slot, that you can see on post #21. That cover comes out, its there to keep the chip from falling out when you open the case. Not all of them have this cover, some just rely on the lock/unlock circuit board to keep the chip inplace.
View attachment 288120
Got a picture of the FOB you are using, inside and out?
This is the square fob I am referring to.

in the old donor key under that cover was no transponder And the remote coded to the new vehicle for locking etc fine but when I put the key together with that pcb from the donor key and the transponder in the slot it would not release the steering column the only way I could do it was to unsolder theinductive coil now it work? Hence wondering if that broadcast the original transponder info
 
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