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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Further to my post regarding getting my aircon drained down, I ploughed headlong into a major rebuild of my aircon system.
Stripped down the grill, slam panel and bumper, to allow easy access to the receiver/dryer, which is a pig to remove without removing the bumper.
Neither of my condenser fans sounded particularily healthy, so stripped them down and lubricated them. Attached 12 volts and they spun up beautifully (unlike before).
First problem, two snapped bolts removing the condenser fans!! absolutely corroded to hell.
Removed the old condenser, so simple with the bumper removed, no jiggling trying to get the two bottom bolts out and then back in, after struggling trying to get the aircon pipes apart. They also were corroded as hell.
Thankfully, plenty of wd40 and they came apart.
Next problem, I couldn't unscrew the aircon pipe to the receiver dryer, it was absolutely solid, and putting some leverage onto it was bending the receiver/dryer away from it's mount!! Along came a gas soldering iron with the head unscrewed. With heat and plenty of swearing it moved.....
I was then able to unscrew the receiver/dryer from it's mounting plate and take it to the bench vice to release the other aircon pipe and trinary valve.
Easier on the bench to get the aircon pipe apart but the tri mode switch was messed up in getting it apart from the receiver/dryer. The flange beneath the hexagon that bolts it in place has several vertical splits and is totally corroded inside!!
Thankfully, putting it all back together was a piece of cake, even the bumper slid back on it's mountings and I was able to lock it in place and screw the bolts home without swearing. Trouble is, I'm going to have to take the bumper back off when the tri-mode switch turns up again. Thankfully, on mine at least, the bumper was sooo easy to remove.
Fitted a new compressor as well, no issues there, got it done in about half an hour.
Finally today, I replaced the drivers door window regulator which packed up last weekend.
What a bitch of a job trying to put the new one back in!!!!!
Could've done with another hand. How the hell do you line these things up once the two guides are in place in the bottom glass runners? The motor gearing is so low that you can't turn it by hand.
So I had to pop rivet the bar in place whilst clamping the other end of the frame with mole grips. Got one more rivet in, then moved the window fractionally until the other two lined up!!
Tearing my hair out or what!
Still pop rivets made it a piece of cake to fix in place.
One more thing, if like mine your window rattled terribly when shutting your door with the window down, put the rubber channel back in. Totally rattle free now!!
Result :dance:
 

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Sounds like about 7k worth of dealer repairs. Nice
 

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541 Posts
Congrat's on taking the bull by the horns man!

Did you happen to photo-document your efforts? I'm sure many would like to see your process....
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Sounds like a good day to me...
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,219 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Chris X said:
Congrat's on taking the bull by the horns man!

Did you happen to photo-document your efforts? I'm sure many would like to see your process....
Wish I had, but the day was stressful enough without a camera in my hands :lol:
Selfish I know.....Sorry
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,219 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Got it gassed back up and the compressor isn't running.
There's no 12 volt feed on the white cable going into the compressor.
If I give it 12 volts it's perfect. Could it be the pressure switch? I've renewed the trinary. Any other fuses apart from 42 and 43 which are fine?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #8
Found the problem, one of the wires had got a bad connection in the plug that fixes to the trinary valve. Remade the connection, lovely and cold :dance:
 
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