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Hey all...what a day. couldnt cut my vent to get to the o-rings. then, when igrabbed the sawzall (rotary cutting tool could only cut the front of the duct), i accidentally shaved the corner and gears off the **** blend door motor. Unreal. thank goodness I had another lower motor to splice in. Im just whooped from all of it. the truck isnt even 100% back together, but it's all functioning. I don't even know if the blend door motors are working. I kept the airbag loose so I can watch the gears of the heater box move when i change venting directions, but I'm really not sure if it's working because it only moved a VERY small amount. plus i havent even gotten the long chunk of vent back in there. We need to create a rectangular piece of flex-tubing that we can use to replace it easily. getting that monster back in and taped is going to be a nightmare. i'm dreading it.

I couldnt reach the o-ring screw, and had to run to napa and borrow a 24-30" screwdriver and it worked ONLY after I used a holesaw to cut a hole in the exact spot (see photo). meanwhile it fit perfectly it was soo easy (after an hour and a half of trying to reach the **** screw).

Here's an issue, and I feel like i was sooo careful with the glovebox cable. It wont catch anymore. What am I doing wrong?

one other thing- I flushed the coolant system so i didnt have any more leaks as I undid it. I think i followed the directions on how to drain and fill, but I wanted to know why the big hose running to the radiator is still empty. i pumped revs to 3k as requested.

I'm going to upload pics later tonight. At this point I just want to eat my dinner.. :doh:
 

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Discussion Starter #2


the 30 inch screwdriver i needed that got RIGHT into the screw....well, after I drilled into the plastic frame with a 2" holesaw...hahaha



my butchered blend door motor courtesy of my sawzall to remove the duct. this one was painful...
 

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The name "sawzall" wasn't a dead give away that this might happen?
Sorry to hear that anyway. At least you got it going again. :thumb:
 

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Hi It suposed to easier with a left hand drive car, try doing it with a steering wheel in the way etc, my only advice is cut away any plastic that will not be seen or structural. It did this when doing mine now can get to the screw in about 5min easy. all the hacking and slashing is covered by the outer plastic stuff.
Onetime
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah I don't know if it actually worked out...orings are done though. Now the issue Ia that I took a great blend motor and made hamburger meat out of it. I spliced in the replacement but can't tell if its workingl. The only one that was busted before was the one on drivers side but it looks like I have to also cut that vent there, right? I wanted to try to get to it easily with everything already off but I just don't think I can. Let me know your thoughts.
 

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I haven't done blend motors yet!! just about everyhting else though, you may have to do both sides and if you are doing this you may aswell do the third too, see if you can gat a cheap set from ebay new not used as if you are replacing 3 you don't want to be going back in there again if one is fooked. hope that helps i thing there is a thred on blend motors some short cuts etc. one thing, don't take it a dealer unless youve won the lottery.
Onetime
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh and about the sawzall...I was able to cut the front of the duct but couldn't get a hacksaw back there at all and then pulling it out was a total nightmare. That's why I turned to that. I tried razor cutting wheels hacksaws and I couldn't get close. I reached my hand behind duct and it felt clear but I guess at the angle I was cutting I butchered her.

One more question...any suggestions for fixing the glovebox? The **** thing is just hanging there because the latch won't catch.
 

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The o ring are for the pipes that connect to heater matrix they get old and then it leaks coolant, thus in turn leads to overheat then loads more trouble about £800 to fix at a dealers as they have to take out the dash etc as per the manual. They cost about 50p each and you need 2 of them.

The latch on the glove box cannot really say, but go to breaker and get another if it gone or look on ebay, something must be a miss if its not fix back as it should. sorry cannot help more
Onetime
 

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For the glove box - take it back off. Look at the end of the cable that attaches to the glove box and actuates the lock mechanism. Push the lock button - see how that moves- then look at the box where this cable attaches. It is hard to describe without a picture. Basically the cable has "hook" type end that engages a "loop" in a rod. When the "hook" pulls on the "loop" it disengages the lock. If the "loop" is not positioned correct during reassembly then it will not latch. This "loop" probably fell flat and the "hook" cannot engage it, therefore, the box will not lock. But if you play with it you should be able to figure out how this mechanism works. I bet the cable is not engaging the locking mechanism on the glovebox. THis was my problem when I changed the Orings last year. Hopefully, this is what your problem is.
Good Luck
 

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inside, Glovebox side (lhd) steering wheel (Rhd)
wet carpets[/quote]

Fouled electrics will follow wet carpets, Body control is a real worry if it get damp and stays damp for extended periods of time.
 

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regarding your glovebox... what rodog said.

I haven't got around to narrating my o-ring replacement but a bunch of pics are located at http://paulp38a.com/gallery/v/99RR/heaterorings/ and I had the same problem with the glovebox. I found that with the help of two flat-blade screwdrivers I was able to prise off the pretend wood panel above the glove box and then remove the button. The glove box hinged bit actually has a fair bit of flex in the closed position, or perhaps I was just lucky?
Cheers, Paul.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thanks paul. i've already taken the wood veneer off and it's still off. i never removed the button. are you saying just taking it off and putting it back on will fix the glovebox latch?
 

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afox04 said:
thanks paul. i've already taken the wood veneer off and it's still off. i never removed the button. are you saying just taking it off and putting it back on will fix the glovebox latch?
No, do what rodog said. Remove the actuator end of the cable from the glove box and reinstall it correctly. You have not mated the cable actuator correctly with the "wire loop" in the glove box latch mechanism that rodog mentions.

Brett
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Alright thanks brett. are you talking about the box-shaped latch next to the passenger door or the one by the button? I can't really see how to take it apart and fix it (brain cramp?). Any chance anyone has a Youtube post on the way it interlocks and repairing the common problem I have? I am sure we'd all benefit greatly.
 

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afox04 said:
Alright thanks brett. are you talking about the box-shaped latch next to the passenger door
yes. the terminus of the cable mechanism that clips into the glove box latch.

afox04 said:
I can't really see how to take it apart and fix it (brain cramp?).
Since you've removed the glove box completely once already, you've already done it. Pop out the box-shaped actuator part from the glove box and have a look at it and also at the glove box mechanism that it interlocks with. Make sure you mate the moving parts correctly. With the box-shaped actuator popped out, you can close the glove box, see how it latches, then unlatch it manually by pulling back the "wire loop." You'll know what we're talking about when you see it in action. As already said, a little study, and you'll see how to mate the parts correctly.

Brett
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Will do thanks....hope you're around tomorrow..:) i was worried about popping the black box part off of the back of the glovebox plastic frame, so i guess i'll try it again.
 

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Mine has been a nightmare with a happy ending. The screw holding the O ring retaining bracket on my latest aquisition was rusted solid. So the only option was to drill it out. I welded a 5.5mm drill bit on a 6 mm rod around 45cm long. I used one of the holes (see pic) in the facia to get the drill to the screw and spent around 15 minutes drilling at a low speed. The angle was exactly right and the head finally came off. Then it was a case of cleaning all the corrosion and putting it back together as per the sticky. Big relief.

I had to cut off an un-used bracket in order for the drill to reach the screw - seen to the left of the drill bit.

Caution though. If the dill bit slips off the screw it will go through the plastic of the matrix in a flash.
 

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