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Went to see a 2000 Range Rover 4.6 HSE today. Owner is asking for $3,500, but I found that the EAS (air suspension) was removed and installed coils/springs, etc.
On the dash the ABS, Traction and SRS lights remain on and while test driving there's an intermittent beep? I'm a newbie to this world and have learned quite a lot reading on this forum, but I don't want to get in over my head in repairs. Also, the driver and passenger front windows do not work when I push the buttons, but the back ones do. Could it be door regulators or some electrical short?
Front display says Bonnet open, but both the bonnet and back window and rear door are closed? I spotted coolant (dry) coloring on the passenger side floor rug area, but it was not wet. Owner said he cleaned it but it has not leaked since he's bought the vehicle. I know that these suffer from Heater coil ring leak? He has owned it less than a year and has no history records from previous owner. I'm a novice wrench turner and plan on DIY repairs on whatever vehicle I purchase, but would prefer a RR P38. What do you experts think? Go for it or run the other way? If it's a buy how much is it worth in the condition it's in? Thanks in advance for all your suggestions.
For $3500 you need to run away..... that’s a $1200 truck
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Went to see a 2000 Range Rover 4.6 HSE today.
Front display says Bonnet open, but both the bonnet and back window and rear door are closed?

There are two bonnet latches. There is an electrical connection to each. Take some brake cleaner spray to free them up, or take them out and clean them. The only issue is the contact is not being made to complete the circuit. I had that problem on my 2000 Rino.
 

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There are two bonnet latches. There is an electrical connection to each.
No there isn't, there's only a switch on the RH latch. Pretty irrelevant now anyway as the OP has decided to look for a better one.
 
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1995 p38a
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I wouldn't pay 3500 for a p38a. I might justify spending 2k on one. And it's good that it's had a coil conversion already, just sounds like it has a couple little things wrong with it that can be easily sorted. I see them all the time for under 2k for running and driving ones. People can't seem to give them away.
 

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You're in the UK, he's in the US, different prices, much different. Coils are an abomination on a P38, if you want a Land Rover on coils, buy a Discovery.
 
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P38's are a steal right now but most of them are like this one. If you really want a P38, buy one as stock as possible and rebuild the engine if its over 150k. EAS, leaky heater o-rings, saggy headliners are all easy fixes if one puts in the time to understand the systems. But despite a few high milers on this forum, most P38 engines are getting tired after 150k and need a refresh before something major happens.
 

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I'd go a grand.
No more.
I bought a 00 p38.
1400 bucks
Im now at 7000 bucks total with all kinds of bullshit.
Dancing locks, door latch issues, replaced 4.0 with 4.6 motor.
I like the vehicle, it had coils to replace air bags, it rides nice, but after all I've had to do with it, i'm kind of screwed.
Go find one thats got no issues.
I use mine for logging
Good luck
287831
 

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Went to see a 2000 Range Rover 4.6 HSE today. Owner is asking for $3,500, but I found that the EAS (air suspension) was removed and installed coils/springs, etc.
On the dash the ABS, Traction and SRS lights remain on and while test driving there's an intermittent beep? I'm a newbie to this world and have learned quite a lot reading on this forum, but I don't want to get in over my head in repairs. Also, the driver and passenger front windows do not work when I push the buttons, but the back ones do. Could it be door regulators or some electrical short?
Front display says Bonnet open, but both the bonnet and back window and rear door are closed? I spotted coolant (dry) coloring on the passenger side floor rug area, but it was not wet. Owner said he cleaned it but it has not leaked since he's bought the vehicle. I know that these suffer from Heater coil ring leak? He has owned it less than a year and has no history records from previous owner. I'm a novice wrench turner and plan on DIY repairs on whatever vehicle I purchase, but would prefer a RR P38. What do you experts think? Go for it or run the other way? If it's a buy how much is it worth in the condition it's in? Thanks in advance for all your suggestions.
Walk Away, No Deal...keep looking you will find the one you want and at a good price, all the best from down under...
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The ONLY P38 I believe "worth the trouble" is a Holland & Holland. IMO coil conversion not a big deal. Pay up for a good one. Cheaper to own. Engines can/will go at any time on these particularly late model P38s. Blocks were faulty from new. I have owned many P38s. Know them well.
Zuno- Thanks for the feedback. What years have the faulty blocks?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I'd go a grand.
No more.
I bought a 00 p38.
1400 bucks
Im now at 7000 bucks total with all kinds of bullshit.
Dancing locks, door latch issues, replaced 4.0 with 4.6 motor.
I like the vehicle, it had coils to replace air bags, it rides nice, but after all I've had to do with it, i'm kind of screwed.
Go find one thats got no issues.
I use mine for logging
Good luck View attachment 287831
Hi Ken, I ended up not making an offer. I'm in no hurry, so I'll keep looking. Thanks.
 

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Zuno- Thanks for the feedback. What years have the faulty blocks?
Any year that has been overheated. There are lots of old wives tales about faulty blocks but most originate from a supplier of very expensive, custom made, blocks. However, like any all alloy engine with steel liners, no matter what manufacturer, overheating can cause liners to slip and blocks to crack.

Coil conversion is no big deal other than as a bargaining tool to drop the price, then you just put the EAS back.
 
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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hmmm. Mine's at 265,000 kms with no engine work ever having done. It burns very little oil, pulls like a train and runs like a Swiss watch.

The point about this thread is that good P38s are getting rare. They're in two camps now: good ones that are well maintained, and junkers (like this one) that are only really good for parts or the wrecker's.
 

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1995 p38a
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You're in the UK, he's in the US, different prices, much different. Coils are an abomination on a P38, if you want a Land Rover on coils, buy a Discovery.
Sorry about that. Corrected my location. My point is still valid.... P38a are cheap. Don't over pay for one. And secondly they are all in different stages of disrepair. I say buy the best rover you can afford. And the newest. Unless you like financial ruin and punishment. Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Any year that has been overheated. There are lots of old wives tales about faulty blocks but most originate from a supplier of very expensive, custom made, blocks. However, like any all alloy engine with steel liners, no matter what manufacturer, overheating can cause liners to slip and blocks to crack.

Coil conversion is no big deal other than as a bargaining tool to drop the price, then you just put the EAS back.
Thanks Richard. I've read this happening to aluminum block engines with steel liners. I plan on installing an ultra gauge on it when I do purchase one and keep a close eye on the temperature.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Went to see a 2000 Range Rover 4.6 HSE today. Owner is asking for $3,500, but I found that the EAS (air suspension) was removed and installed coils/springs, etc.
On the dash the ABS, Traction and SRS lights remain on and while test driving there's an intermittent beep? I'm a newbie to this world and have learned quite a lot reading on this forum, but I don't want to get in over my head in repairs. Also, the driver and passenger front windows do not work when I push the buttons, but the back ones do. Could it be door regulators or some electrical short?
Front display says Bonnet open, but both the bonnet and back window and rear door are closed? I spotted coolant (dry) coloring on the passenger side floor rug area, but it was not wet. Owner said he cleaned it but it has not leaked since he's bought the vehicle. I know that these suffer from Heater coil ring leak? He has owned it less than a year and has no history records from previous owner. I'm a novice wrench turner and plan on DIY repairs on whatever vehicle I purchase, but would prefer a RR P38. What do you experts think? Go for it or run the other way? If it's a buy how much is it worth in the condition it's in? Thanks in advance for all your suggestions.
Did you buy the 2000 P38? If not I have a 2002 I am thinking of selling. Obviously in much better shape than the one you are looking at.
Let me know if you are interested and I will tell you about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Did you buy the 2000 P38? If not I have a 2002 I am thinking of selling. Obviously in much better shape than the one you are looking at.
Let me know if you are interested and I will tell you about it.
I did not buy it. I would not have paid $3,500 for that vehicle and after getting feedback from this community I don't think I would have taken it for $1000, because it needed a lot of work. This community has been very helpful and I'm learning more and more about these P38's. I live in Florida and currently the epicenter of Covid-19 and they just cut staff where I work, so I'm hesitant on making any purchases right now on my selfish hobby. But if a great opportunity were to present itself, I may just decide to buy. I'd like to know more about your vehicle and perhaps other members on this site may also be interested?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
P38's are a steal right now but most of them are like this one. If you really want a P38, buy one as stock as possible and rebuild the engine if its over 150k. EAS, leaky heater o-rings, saggy headliners are all easy fixes if one puts in the time to understand the systems. But despite a few high milers on this forum, most P38 engines are getting tired after 150k and need a refresh before something major happens.
Thanks for your input NorCal RR.
 

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1995 p38a
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Thanks for your input NorCal RR.
If I can assume your name is code for where you live, there's a cheap running disco over in Melbourne for $600 right now. If you desperately need a cheap rover. And I saw a bunch in marketplace on Facebook in the Orlando area for sale. Almost bought a couple.
 
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