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Discussion Starter #1
Went to see a 2000 Range Rover 4.6 HSE today. Owner is asking for $3,500, but I found that the EAS (air suspension) was removed and installed coils/springs, etc.
On the dash the ABS, Traction and SRS lights remain on and while test driving there's an intermittent beep? I'm a newbie to this world and have learned quite a lot reading on this forum, but I don't want to get in over my head in repairs. Also, the driver and passenger front windows do not work when I push the buttons, but the back ones do. Could it be door regulators or some electrical short?
Front display says Bonnet open, but both the bonnet and back window and rear door are closed? I spotted coolant (dry) coloring on the passenger side floor rug area, but it was not wet. Owner said he cleaned it but it has not leaked since he's bought the vehicle. I know that these suffer from Heater coil ring leak? He has owned it less than a year and has no history records from previous owner. I'm a novice wrench turner and plan on DIY repairs on whatever vehicle I purchase, but would prefer a RR P38. What do you experts think? Go for it or run the other way? If it's a buy how much is it worth in the condition it's in? Thanks in advance for all your suggestions.
 

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It looks like the EAS wasn’t electrically bypassed, the window motors could be dead, the heater core O-rings are leaking, and the bonnet stuff sounds like a gremlin.

Personally I would look for one with EAS intact. It’s an easy system to deal with nowadays, and new bags are cheap.

I also wouldn’t pay $3500 for what you’ve described, especially not a facelift, and with a half completed EAS replacement.

Those are all fixable things by the way, but arguably expensive in price negotiations. You could absolutely rescue this truck, but basically this owner knows nothing about the truck, so you’ll have to take the dive yes wide open
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It looks like the EAS wasn’t electrically bypassed, the window motors could be dead, the heater core O-rings are leaking, and the bonnet stuff sounds like a gremlin.

Personally I would look for one with EAS intact. It’s an easy system to deal with nowadays, and new bags are cheap.

I also wouldn’t pay $3500 for what you’ve described, especially not a facelift, and with a half completed EAS replacement.

Those are all fixable things by the way, but arguably expensive in price negotiations. You could absolutely rescue this truck, but basically this owner knows nothing about the truck, so you’ll have to take the dive yes wide open
Thank you very much for your feedback IceTray. Much appreciated!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It looks like the EAS wasn’t electrically bypassed, the window motors could be dead, the heater core O-rings are leaking, and the bonnet stuff sounds like a gremlin.

Personally I would look for one with EAS intact. It’s an easy system to deal with nowadays, and new bags are cheap.

I also wouldn’t pay $3500 for what you’ve described, especially not a facelift, and with a half completed EAS replacement.

Those are all fixable things by the way, but arguably expensive in price negotiations. You could absolutely rescue this truck, but basically this owner knows nothing about the truck, so you’ll have to take the dive yes wide open
What would be a fair price with current issues?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I reckon this one depends on the condition of the body and interior.

The leaks, gremlins and so on can be fixed pretty cheaply. Wrecker's yards are full of parts and it's not hard to reinstate the EAS. If you buy it, work through the faults on this board one by one. Plenty of users here will help you, as we've all been helped.

Got any photos?

If the interior and body are shot, I'd walk away.

There are plenty around.

It's not economical to refurb the body and interior.

Buy a good one to start with. I wouldn't worry about the faults it's showing; if you buy it you'll be pulling the dash out to do a number of jobs; you'll be kidding yourself if you don't think you will. It's pretty easy.

Send some photos

Good late P38s are either getting scrapped, or like many of ours, well maintained and fixed up.

Once all the bugs are out, they're magnificent

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I reckon this one depends on the condition of the body and interior.

The leaks, gremlins and so on can be fixed pretty cheaply. Wrecker's yards are full of parts and it's not hard to reinstate the EAS. If you buy it, work through the faults on this board one by one. Plenty of users here will help you, as we've all been helped.

Got any photos?

If the interior and body are shot, I'd walk away.

There are plenty around.

It's not economical to refurb the body and interior.

Buy a good one to start with. I wouldn't worry about the faults it's showing; if you buy it you'll be pulling the dash out to do a number of jobs; you'll be kidding yourself if you don't think you will. It's pretty easy.

Send some photos

Good late P38s are either getting scrapped, or like many of ours, well maintained and fixed up.

Once all the bugs are out, they're magnificent

Tom
Thank you Tom for your reply. I didn't take any pictures, but below is a link to the ad on craigslist.
The interior and exterior looks fine. No rust underneath the body and the sunroof is not leaking.
 

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Well the body seems pretty good but the interior is quite ratty. Bits of broken trim and worn seats. Original radio gone.

You can buy spare bits from the wrecker's and fix all that up though.

I think it's a bit pricey. P38s now are worth anything between 'I'll pay you $500.00 to take this heap out of my drive' to north of $20,000.00 for a real peach.

I don't know the American market though.

Any Stateside want to offer an opinion?
 

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Also, headlining good, rubber good, those wheels are OK if you like that sort of thing.

Optional side steps and window rain deflectors are both excellent options and really useful.

Could be a good project, but with the list of faults you could get it for less than the asking.

How many working key fobs? If none, walk away
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also, headlining good, rubber good, those wheels are OK if you like that sort of thing.

Optional side steps and window rain deflectors are both excellent options and really useful.

Could be a good project, but with the list of faults you could get it for less than the asking.

How many working key fobs? If none, walk away
Thanks again for your input. Owner put those new wheels/rims, which I'm not thrilled about either, but he has the original wheels that are included in the deal. He has only one fob and it's not working. He needs to open with key.
Here in the USA there are more enthusiast of the Land Rover Discovery II, but not many of the P38's which have always been my favorite. Of the very few that I've seen for sale here in the States, that are in my budget, they are asking between $2,400 to $5,000. The "Mint" ones that are listed online can start around $8,000 to sky-high.
I was thinking of offering $2,500, but I think only one person from the (USA) has chimed in on this post. So I'm not sure if I'm offering too much? Looks like I'll pass on this one and keep looking. Thanks again! Cheers!
 

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If I was in your shoes looking for a P38 to purchase nowadays, I would be comfortable paying $3,500 for one in good shape.

With the specific one you referenced, the following would be my concern:
-no working key fob.
-no EAS
-some interior leather looks rough. Some missing trim pieces, like the cap that goes on the armrest.
-To me, the left side of the vehicle looks worked on. The left side headlight assembly/turn signal assembly looks noticeably newer than the right side. There is a bulge on the plastic covering of the bumper towards the left side as well. Based on these observations, I would cautiously look for more damage underneath.
-Aftermarket side intake on front fenders. When the time comes to sell the car, these things will certainly diminish the value.

Here in the US, it's of my observation that prices are gradually creeping up and a good example is hard to come by. With the one you found, I personally would not pull the trigger for the asked price. Even with a lower price, I personally would not pull the trigger due to the front fender side intakes. It just makes the vehicle not factory correct, and not so attractive. Other things can be fixed, but once the sheet metal is tampered with, it just destroys the character of the vehicle.
 

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If those vents are cut into the truck I would walk away.

I do like the colour combo, but as mentioned you really want to start with a solid body and interior, don’t worry too much about the headliner as they always droop and need replacing or removing.

Any mechanical or electrical issues can be fixed, but the body should be in great shape, and from the many I’ve owned and looked at for sale, they almost all were.

I’d keep looking but be a bit sad that I had to wait. :) $2500-$3500 for a good truck that has a few of the typical issues like leaking airbags, or leaking heater core, windows not working, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If I was in your shoes looking for a P38 to purchase nowadays, I would be comfortable paying $3,500 for one in good shape.

With the specific one you referenced, the following would be my concern:
-no working key fob.
-no EAS
-some interior leather looks rough. Some missing trim pieces, like the cap that goes on the armrest.
-To me, the left side of the vehicle looks worked on. The left side headlight assembly/turn signal assembly looks noticeably newer than the right side. There is a bulge on the plastic covering of the bumper towards the left side as well. Based on these observations, I would cautiously look for more damage underneath.
-Aftermarket side intake on front fenders. When the time comes to sell the car, these things will certainly diminish the value.

Here in the US, it's of my observation that prices are gradually creeping up and a good example is hard to come by. With the one you found, I personally would not pull the trigger for the asked price. Even with a lower price, I personally would not pull the trigger due to the front fender side intakes. It just makes the vehicle not factory correct, and not so attractive. Other things can be fixed, but once the sheet metal is tampered with, it just destroys the character of the vehicle.
Thank you very much for your input. Great community! I will pass on this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I want to thank everyone who chimed in with your advice. Sincerely appreciate it!
 

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I wasn't going to comment as I'm in the UK so prices and tastes are very different but that one on coils, blinged up with the side vents, big wheels, scruffy interior and non functioning keyfob would be a grand tops. I'd be interested to know the VIN as it is described as a 2000 but has the 99 lights and dash so looks like a 99 model not a 2000.
 

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I wasn't going to comment as I'm in the UK so prices and tastes are very different but that one on coils, blinged up with the side vents, big wheels, scruffy interior and non functioning keyfob would be a grand tops. I'd be interested to know the VIN as it is described as a 2000 but has the 99 lights and dash so looks like a 99 model not a 2000.
Richard, I didn't get the Vin#, because I was leaning on making an offer so I wasn't going to spend $ on a Vin check.
Excellent observation regarding the lights & dash. I'd prefer a stock P38 and want to keep it original in every way. Thank you for your input.
 

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Up to 99 model year they had the amber indicators (turn signals) and no black surround to the headlights, 2000 onwards they got clear indicator lenses with amber coloured bulbs and a black surround to the headlights. I know a US title only shows a year of registration (unlike ours which show an actual date of registration) but it's easy enough to identify the year of manufacture. If you look at the VIN, it will end with WAxxxxxx for a 98, XAxxxxxx, for a 99, YAxxxxxx for a 2000 and 1Axxxxxx for a 2001. Model year manufacture dates started in around September the previous year so a car built in September 1997 would be a 98 model as nobody wants to buy a car in January to find they've got last years model.
 

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Good move.

Better to spend more. Even if you got it for a thousand, there's immediately several thousand to spend. It will cost you far less to spend more at the start! The cheap ones are expensive and the expensive, or well-maintained ones are cheap.

You live in a big country.

And if you buy one interstate, think of the drive home across your spectacular landscapes.

That's what I did. Bought in another state.

Why not post some more ads of what's on offer; it's fun to see what's around.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Up to 99 model year they had the amber indicators (turn signals) and no black surround to the headlights, 2000 onwards they got clear indicator lenses with amber coloured bulbs and a black surround to the headlights. I know a US title only shows a year of registration (unlike ours which show an actual date of registration) but it's easy enough to identify the year of manufacture. If you look at the VIN, it will end with WAxxxxxx for a 98, XAxxxxxx, for a 99, YAxxxxxx for a 2000 and 1Axxxxxx for a 2001. Model year manufacture dates started in around September the previous year so a car built in September 1997 would be a 98 model as nobody wants to buy a car in January to find they've got last years model.
Thanks for the Vin designations so I c
Up to 99 model year they had the amber indicators (turn signals) and no black surround to the headlights, 2000 onwards they got clear indicator lenses with amber coloured bulbs and a black surround to the headlights. I know a US title only shows a year of registration (unlike ours which show an actual date of registration) but it's easy enough to identify the year of manufacture. If you look at the VIN, it will end with WAxxxxxx for a 98, XAxxxxxx, for a 99, YAxxxxxx for a 2000 and 1Axxxxxx for a 2001. Model year manufacture dates started in around September the previous year so a car built in September 1997 would be a 98 model as nobody wants to buy a car in January to find they've got last years model.
Thank you for this Vin # identification so I know what year by looking at the ending letters in the Vin, and not rely on the owners description, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Good move.

Better to spend more. Even if you got it for a thousand, there's immediately several thousand to spend. It will cost you far less to spend more at the start! The cheap ones are expensive and the expensive, or well-maintained ones are cheap.

You live in a big country.

And if you buy one interstate, think of the drive home across your spectacular landscapes.

That's what I did. Bought in another state.

Why not post some more ads of what's on offer; it's fun to see what's around.
Atticus, can't thank you and the community enough for your input and advice. I agree it's better to spend more upfront on a properly maintained one than a badly maintained one which at the end will cost me more.
 

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The ONLY P38 I believe "worth the trouble" is a Holland & Holland. IMO coil conversion not a big deal. Pay up for a good one. Cheaper to own. Engines can/will go at any time on these particularly late model P38s. Blocks were faulty from new. I have owned many P38s. Know them well.
 
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