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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Just wanting to throw this one out there - I have been doing some research and have found out a few ideas, but wanted to see what other people thought....

The vehicle in question is a 2001 DHSE (not mine - I am trying to help a fellow RR owner out!)

There's been a lot of issues with the vehicle before which the owner has been working through, mostly due to bodged wiring from a previous owner, but now there just seem to be a couple remaining.

One of the current issues is the 3 amigos coming up, and the ABS pump running all the time - but only for a short period of time. The ABS system comes up with a Brake Switch fault at times and also a ABS Pump Relay Driver fault - though the brake switch has been changed, kick panel connectors have been removed and the wires cut/soldered together. Fuse box is new. I have advised (as he has access to a parts vehicle of the same year) that he swap the ABS pump unit and accumulator as this is definitely shot! As the parts vehicle is the same model I have also told him to acquire the ABS ECU as I have heard that these can randomly fail with weird symptoms.

The bigger problem is that when the vehicle is started and running it will quite happily sit there and idle nice and evenly. As soon as you put the vehicle into gear - either drive or reverse (it's worse when put in reverse) the engine revs drop and a lot of the time it stalls. It is almost like it tries to adjust itself, but doesn't quite get there. However, if you shift the transmission into Low Range, and try it, then whilst the revs drop off, it manages to recover and goes back to idling at normal speed. This is also the case if you put the transfer case in neutral. The revs still dip (but not as much as I'm guessing the engine load isn't as much with the transfer case isn't connected through to the rest of the drive train) but doesn't get close to stalling.

If you manually hold the revs up a bit when changing, then it won't stall and will go into gear (slight dip in revs still though).

When driving, the vehicle goes up and down through the gears properly and according to the owner the TC lockup comes in when it should aswell.
I've had a look on diagnostics and there are proper readings from both the crank sensor and the sensor on No 4 injector. Engine cranks a few times before firing when cold. If it's just stalled then it seems to fire back up straight away.

Charging voltage reads 14.2V at the battery, and doesn't flinch when the vehicle stalls, or gear selected - so fairly sure it's not a voltage problem.

So... thoughts... FIP timing out? Problem in the gearbox/torque converter which is causing there to be too much of a load when the vehicle goes from idle to being in gear?

A couple of posts mentioned about it possibly being a voltage problem but the gearbox ECU (as we know how finnicky it is with voltage, being as GEARBOX FAULT is usually the first warning sign of charging/voltage issues!) shows battery voltage as 14.2V when engine is running and at idle. (same a multimeter on battery terminals)

Thanks in advance for any ideas or pointers - I haven't worked a lot on the diesels and trying to help him out a bit as he likes the vehicle and has invested a fair bit of time into it so far to get it back to a usable condition!

Cheers,
Marty
 

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You have to set pump top(electronic governor) - moving it(slight tapping on loosened bolts) towards bulkhead will increase base fuel rate. You need diagnostic equipment to set it properly.
4-6 mg/stroke is what it should be set at.
 
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if you do so, it will most likely start to leak....best marque the top and middle part to eachother and the main housing and put new gaskets in (set is 20 or so at bosch service)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I have got a 2000 DSE and I have also heard the 4 wheel TC ECU can fail. Not very common I understand, but it does happen. It uses the later (black coloured) Wabco unit. They are expensive to buy new and not many come up s/h on Ebay.

Regarding the gearbox, I would check the MAF before you go any further. It affects the gearbox operation. How, I don't exactly know, but I had a new HP24 gearbox fitted by Ashcroft Transmissions and they strongly recommended cleaning/replacing the MAF if there were gear change problems. Try unplugging the MAF, the engine should resort to default settings.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,198 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input guys - I will pass this on to the owner.

He gave me a call this evening aswell and said that he had been doing something else on it and had moved the engine wiring loom out of the way near the FIP - and then had started it and taken if for a test drive... the problem was gone...

He has said he is going to pull the engine wiring loom apart and check it all out and see if he can spot an issue - but it sounds very much like it's another wiring gremlin. He was saying that some of the joins he had fixed were where previously wires had been spliced in simply by twisting the bare ends of the wires together!!

Will update again once I've heard if he's found any other issues in the loom, and will pass on the suggestions from here so far.

Thanks again,

Marty
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Also, try cleaning the TPS multi plug as this could effect the idling.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,198 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for that - will pass it on too :)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Where there any updates? How did it end with the gearbox/converter?
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,198 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I never really heard back from the owner to be honest...

I resynced a spare engine ECU for him as he wasn't sure if it was that or not - but I don't think it made a big difference. I know he was looking into the wiring on the engine loom and came across a few prior bodge jobs to it - so ended up swapping the engine loom out, and that sorted most of the problems from where wires were shorting out.

After that, I am not sure what else was done or tried... I wondered if it was wear or something in the FIP where the sudden change when the gearbox was selected meant that the FIP wasn't quick enough at reacting to the engine load change - but I don't think a definite answer was ever found, sorry...

Marty
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi Marty - sorry to hear that.

You might remember, I had similar issues with my 2000 TD, couldn't get any further, hadn't the cash to change components on a hunch... Had to buy a car for my GF... I got around some money, so I'n on track again.

I still don't believe in the FIP, as mine goes smooth, nice gearchanges when I get it to drive (with a little throttle in D, it's possible, reversing only in Low Range). Engine starts fine, fuel quantity OK, revs up as expected.

I'm down to a gearbox or converter issue. I suspect oil pressure, lock-up clutch or something like that. Clocket oilchannels in the gearbox, valves stuck...

My plan: Change oil filter, add Lucas Transmission Fix, see how it goes (problem is to change through the gears after filling transmission oil into the box again, planning to raise the car on stands, so wheels are free to spin). Next step would be to change the converter, maybe get one at Ashcroft. If that ist ruled out, next is a rebuilt gearbox (Ashcroft again) and fit it. And hope...

Faulty lock-up clutch or its control (oil pressure) seems the most plausible, as evetything runs, no faults, smooth gearchanges... But I have to admit, I'm not completely sure yet, if it's the right mode of operation (alternatively get a used, nonrebuilt box from the bay, if possible)...

Right now, my battery is totally dead, couldn't even start it with help from the other car, after charging the battery with an old-faschioned, non-electronic 7 Amp. charger for 24 hours. So I have to order a new one online, coming next week some time.

I'll keep posting either here or in the other thread...
 
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