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Discussion Starter #1
199 RR 4.6HSE
I have read MANY posts and hoped someone might have a suggestion. I have not had any luck with the locals whom have T4’s and Autologics. In my vehicle, every single light on the instrument cluster illuminates when the battery cable is connected. The gauges do not work and the display only shows a few vertical lines. This happens with the key in the ignition, out of the ignition, vehicle running, not running, ignition on or off. The vehicle operates normally in every other aspect. Everything works. The BECM and the Cluster have been replaced with no change in condition. I have not found any wiring damage. The ignition switch is not the problem.

Do you have any ideas? I have been trying to figure it out for over a year now. I have the whole interior pulled out, even the dash.

Any ideas will be greatly appreciated!
Thank you,
Raphael Puzio
 

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Sounds like a ground problem, I assume you are only disconnecting the neg batt. ( if you are disconnecting both leads, you have discovered a new source of power, and in line for a Noble Prize) lead. Power is then grounding through the bulbs
David
 

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When I was looking thru the forum and saw the title on this thread, my first thought was "what range rover doesn't have electrical gremlins?" And aren't many of those gremlins named "lucas"?

Sorry I don't have suggestions for the dash issues...
 

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This sounds very much like a connector/wiring problem.I would suspect corrosion/contamination of a connector or even somewhere in the wiring loom.I presume you havent actually pulled the loom apart to see if any form of corrosive liquid has damaged the individual wires insulation .It probably is quite a job,but you seem to have covered all the obvious possible causes.Happy hunting :think:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
amv8vol said:
Sounds like a ground problem, I assume you are only disconnecting the neg batt. ( if you are disconnecting both leads, you have discovered a new source of power, and in line for a Noble Prize) lead. Power is then grounding through the bulbs
David
You are correct in your assumptions. The lights go out when the negative battery lead is removed from the battery. It does appear that power is grounding through the bulbs. Nevertheless, I have not found any suspect wires, connectors, junction blocks or relays. I will just have to keep going. I still have faith. I replaced the IAC unit yesterday. She sounds nice when idling and the only oil leak is from the front crank seal. Thank you for the input.
Raphael
 

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Discussion Starter #7
John W said:
This sounds very much like a connector/wiring problem.I would suspect corrosion/contamination of a connector or even somewhere in the wiring loom.I presume you havent actually pulled the loom apart to see if any form of corrosive liquid has damaged the individual wires insulation .It probably is quite a job,but you seem to have covered all the obvious possible causes.Happy hunting :think:
I have not pulled the looms apart. I will bite the bullet and get it done soon. No issues with the connectors. I just have to start pulling split loom off and individually following wires. Someone probably put too big of a fuse in sometime and melted 15 wires together for a fun wire orgy. :x It will be all that much sweeter when she is working properly. Yesterday, I used her to pull my Nissan PU out of a hole I dug by spinning the wheels. I can hardly wait to put her back together. Thank you for the input. Raphael
 

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That's an easy one.

Your becm has failed.

It fails in two ways, Either all the dash lights stay on, or they all stay off except the srs light.

Dont waste anymore time taking looms etc apart as it wont improve anything. Change your becm.
 

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Isn't there a ground somewhere in the footwell which can be prone to corrosion, which has something to do with the binicle?
 

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He might of changed his becm, if he has then he has replaced it with a bad one.

It's a 100% becm problem. I must have 100+ stacked in my workshop with exactly the same problem, & unfortunately, it's on part of the becm that cannot be repaired.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Rick-the-Pick said:
He might of changed his becm, if he has then he has replaced it with a bad one.

It's a 100% becm problem. I must have 100+ stacked in my workshop with exactly the same problem, & unfortunately, it's on part of the becm that cannot be repaired.
Thank you for your input! :thumb: Is the failure on the logic board or on the power Distribution board? I did replace it with a becm from a salvage vehicle. However, the vehicle was running when brought in. Nevertheless, I can not rule out the possibility that the second BECM is bad since it is not new. I need to find someone else with the same year and plug their BECM in without even inserting the key. That way none of the data (mileage) gets corrupted. Does anyone know of anyone in North central Florida who may be willing to let me use their BECM as a guini pig?
 

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Your logic board has failed.

It might of been caused by your powerboard?

Was the logic board from the original becm placed into the replacement to keep your vehicle settings?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Rick-the-Pick said:
Your logic board has failed.

It might of been caused by your powerboard?

Was the logic board from the original becm placed into the replacement to keep your vehicle settings?
No, the replacement was reflashed with my data and then installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Is there anyone in Gainesville, FL or the surrounding area who would let me test something on their P38? I want to install my BECM in your vehicle WITH THE KEY OFF AND NOT IN THE IGNITION. The BECM will not talk with the cluster and the mileage will not get messed up. I just want to verify that my BECMs are in fact the culpret. If my BECM is bad, the lights on your cluster will come on upon connecting the negative battery terminal with the key out of the ignition. If there is some other problem then the lights will not come on. The whole procedure will take an hour. Please, help me solve this ongoing mystery!
 
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