RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My Rover was running fine, then a couple of weeks ago it died just down the street from my house. It has fuel and cranks hard, but no start.

Lucas cap and LR rotor are weeks old. I threw in a new Amplifier Module and generic coil to try to get it running - nada.

Now, the truck is moved closer to home: I have no spark at the plugs, and today found that the new coil spark seems weak - yellow, not blue. Thinking the generic coil was incompatible, I tried a new MDI Blaster 2 but, still no difference - still a rather weak spark from the coil - and nothing at the plugs.

I cleaned up all my ground wires recently - including to the coil. What or where may be keeping my spark weak?
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
100 Posts
Check the resistance through the distributor baseplate, sounds like it may be breaking down


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Resistance through the baseplate should be between 2-5k. My reading was 2.88
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,079 Posts
I would check the wire to the spark modulator
And as far as the coil try going to a good junk yard look for a old jaguar they have powerful coils I use these in. My rover
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
143 Posts
I had exactly the same symptoms turned out to be the dizzy pick up. Apologies if this is what you mean by baseplate above.

Incidentally mikieman - if you don't speak English, what on earth do you speak Sir?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,079 Posts
Watch all the episodes of I love Lucy and you can figure it out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The pick up is located on the base plate. I think you may be onto something. Looking back, my numbers were a little low. I find it hard to believe I've gotten two bad coils. thanks, I think I'll re-check the pick-up.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
143 Posts
A pick over here in England is about £25.00 so not too bad. looks like a few screws and job done. I replaced my whole dizzy because the heat cap was cracked to and it was the only part of my sign system I had yet to change.

Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
A pick over here in England is about £25.00 so not too bad. looks like a few screws and job done. I replaced my whole dizzy because the heat cap was cracked to and it was the only part of my sign system I had yet to change.

Good luck
Thank you! I found one on Ebay for close to that price -- awaiting delivery - I hope today.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
100 Posts
Good stuff I got a genuine LR one on eBay need to get it fitted I sometimes have to wiggle the wires about to get the engine running.

Hoping I can fit it in situ for laziness.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
367 Posts
This is very interesting. As I too have battled a bad ignition module eating new coils. This baseplate measurement.
Is this in the rave?
Where am I measuring from and to?
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
143 Posts
After removing the ignition amp module from the side of the dizzy place an ohmmeter on the two exposed male contacts of the dizzy. Should be between 2 and 5k, mine was nil!! Changed the pick up / baseplate - all good.

I had my whole dizzy off the car but I suspect you can do this insitu.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I appreciate all the input into this problem. Unfortunately this issue was the last straw in dealing with this old truck. Running or not, she just needed too much other work - not a confidant ride - and I decided to cut my losses and sell her...
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
143 Posts
Shame - should never really be a last straw:sad:
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top