[BillConn]

Hi folks,
I have a couple questions regarding the water pump replacement procedure on the 2010-2012 Range Rovers w/ the 5.0L motor.
(FYI, I have the workshop manual docs already)

1) Are the two metal water pump gaskets (included with my Beck-Arnley pump) installed dry? Or is some sealant or dressing preferred?

2) When refitting the Pump, is it easier/best to fit the plastic oil cooler pipe adapter onto the water pump first or install it onto the metal tube on the engine first? Of course I will use a silicone o-ring lubricant on the two o-ring to ease assembly and avoid damage.

3)On that same plastic oil cooler adapter, there is an asymmetric round “disc” in the middle with a ridge on it and a generally odd profile. Does this need to be oriented in a specific way? It appears to fit in any rotational orientation on the water pump but perhaps there is a feature on the engine that will make its alignment more apparent when I actually have the old pump off.

4) Is it preferred to install the Water pump mounting bolts dry or with a dab or anti-seize on them?

Thanks in advance for your replies. I will be tackling this job tomorrow.

 

[BillConn]

Anybody?
With the high failure rate for the water pump on these engines, I figure somebody would have some insight.

 

[BillConn]

So what are you all using to counter hold the fan pulley? I have a proper 36mm wrench but can’t properly hold the fan pulley while loosening (reverse threads) the fan nut. Do I actually need the Land Rover tool to accomplish this? I’ve seen pictures of it and it looks pretty different to the tools I’ve got on hand.

 

[armozo]

I just did replace my fan and fan clutch and borrowed for O'reilly's their fan clutch tool.
I hope this helps.

 

[BillConn]

So what are you all using to counter hold the fan pulley? I have a proper 36mm wrench but can’t properly hold the fan pulley while loosening (reverse threads) the fan nut. Do I actually need the Land Rover tool to accomplish this? I’ve seen pictures of it and it looks pretty different to the tools I’ve got on hand.

Well I just wasn’t paying close enough attention to the service manual. It clearly states RH threads for the fan. I was treating it like LH ( reverse threads). Fan came out easily once I tried actually loosening it as opposed to tightening.

I just did replace my fan and fan clutch and borrowed for O'reilly's their fan clutch tool.
I hope this helps.

Thanks for the tip. I managed to make my on-hand tools work once I started turning the nut the tight way...

Still looking for insight regarding my original questions, though.

 

[BillConn]

Well since none of the resident experts chimed in, I’ll share what worked for me.

1) Install the metal water pump gaskets “dry”

2) Plastic oil cooler adapter should be installed on the engine side first to ensure proper orientation. (See item 3)

3) It will only fit one way on the engine due to the engine block casting. It is pretty obvious once the water pump is removed. (See attached photo)

4) A little anti-seize on the Water Pump bolts is a good idea for the aluminum engine block to prevent corrosion.

 

[CLJ]

BillConn, thanks for the post and for filling in details for us. Putting it to use now.

 

[Sharifrover]

Just had mine replaced on my 2010. Amazed at how small these pumps are... Mechanic said there was a slight leak and noticed Billconn's comment about the high failure rate so did some preventative maintenance.

 

[leftlanetruckin]

You nailed it with the correct answers.
I've done plenty, and install the pipe to oil cooler, then slide the pump over it. I dont use anything on the bolts, they dont go tight enough in my experience.
I also replace the SOB hose that goes into the pump with the push to connect fitting. There are new hoses that replace the single hose, unless its been done already. That fitting can and will leak if it isnt perfect, then you have to start over
I bleed them with a pressure tester. Fill, pressurize, bleed off the pressure, top off, repeat as needed.

Martin