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Discussion Starter #1
My 98 RR's water pump was 30 months old and up to today it was fine. We were going to town this morning and we got about 20 miles from home there was a shutter from the engine, then steam and grinding noises. I was doing about 30 mph.
I pulled over at about 100 yards from when it happened into a parking lot, and raised the bonnet. The radiator fan and clutch was sitting at a 45 degree angle.
Antifreeze was splattered all oner the engine and tiny peices of metal were everywhere.
The water pump bearrings had broken and under pressure it exploded water and shaving of metal out of the water pump housing toward the radiator from around the shaft where the bearing used to be.

I used for the first time, the fuse #11 with the 5amp fuse to disable the system so it can be towed. I had read about that subject in the orginal RR manual that came with the vehicle wen I first got it and I'm glad I did. Since I knew about the procedure ahead of time, by the time my brother-in-law arrived to tow me I was ready.

I replaced the water pump in his driveway in about two hours with his and my tools.
The RR has 106K miles and the water pump that failed only had about 8K miles. That's the first time I ever heard of a water pump bearing failure blowing water under pressure water out around the shaft like a bomb. It's running again now.

The new pump I bought has a lifetime warrenty.
I hope this helps someone else.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Sounds like you had a real cheap pump last time, or dare i say a britpart one !
as for a lifetime warranty, i cant see how they can offer that on a moving part, all moving parts
wear out eventually.
At least your up and running again without to much grief
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had a 91 suburban and it went through 5 alternators in 14 years. I had bought the first replacement alternator at Oreilly's and paid $10 more for a lifetime warranty. The next three alternators replacements were free. I never knew why the suburban ate so many.
I made the clerk laugh when I showed him my receipt that I had laminated.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Glad you were able to get the thing repaired so quickly, and it did not take out the Radiator.
Out of curiosity, was the failed pump one of the less expensive parts? like about 50-60 bucks as opposed to the 140-160 dollar pump?
The more expensive pumps seem to be from Spain, and are a high quality part, whereas the cheepos are a usually a chinese pattern part, and seem to last approximately long enough to fail immediately!8-0=
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The exploding water pump was picked up online from a place in New Jersey. It was advertized as $130, but on sale for $75. Evently the cheap bearings and seal was not strong enough to last much more than the two year warrenty it came with.
Sounded like a good buy at the time. The 98 RR was at the house by the barn so there was no hurry to get a replacement like yesterday. The online store said it came with a 2 year warrenty, which did me a lot of good. Oreilly's cost was $179.00, but with a military discount I got $17 off the price. Life time, this time sound pretty good since I only have 106K on the RR and plan on keeping it.
I would rather pay $500 a year in service cost than pay $500 a month for a new vehicle.
I was able to get a cresent wrench around the big nut that holds the fan/clutch but it was not easy.
Does anyone here know the exact MM of the fan big nut? If I can't find one I can make one with a flat steel bar.
 

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The nut for the viscous coupling is 36mm which is a pretty common size for these things on many cars. Usually they are either 36 or 32mm and a spanner (wrench) is pretty common at most car spares shops over here. I had a similar exploding water pump a couple of years ago but I've no idea of the brand. In the UK a decent Airtex one is around £50 ($66) but you can get a Britpart for £24, less than half the price but I know which I would fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I checked online for a 36mm wrench to remove the fan/clutch from the water pump and called a few places for a price, but yesterday I decided to build a 36m wrench and the bracket that holds the pump pully while removing the fan's big 36mm nut.
I used an old steel framing square and cut out the 36mm and used the short part of the square to cut off some steel to strenghten the wrench sides. It strong now. I over welded it just to add bulk to the sides.

I used an old steel shelf bracket with a steel strap to make the holding tool.
Yeah, their ugly, but they both work great and will last a lifetime.

I tried to add a few pictures but the system here seems to be very slow. I'll try again.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Make sure your fan and is absolutely running in balance. I had a pully break which bent my fan and took out a new water pump.
I took my fan off an could see the coupler was bent resulting in premature pump wear. It would have flown all over
Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
When I changed the water pump last week I still had a nagging tiny water leak comming from the lower hose at the water pump clamp.
I easily removed thr fan/clutch nut again with the 36mm wrench I made to access the hose clamp better and put a new clamp on the hose at the water pump. Two days later I found the hose at the water pump was still dripping. Not much, just a litt drip about every 3o seconds or so.
Once again I removed the fa/clutch nut to reposition the hose clamp and I found my leaking problem. There is a electrical wire that runs alomg near the botton of the water pump hose hat I could not see looking down. And I could barely see it looking up from underneith the RR.
I had mashed the wire and the plactic wire wrap that protects the wire from heat under the hose clamp when I replace the water pump. So when I caught the little wire harness inside the hose clamp there was no perfect 360 degree seal.
No more leaks. I hope this helps someone else to watch out for the little wire under the lower hose.
 
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