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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My water pump looks like it blew a gasket, coolant spewing from the gasket area right under where the PS pump clamps thru it. Is blowing a gasket like this unusual?

Anyway, I'll need to remove/replace the radiator, but the viscous fan coupling has me worried. All posts I find here pretty much say it's a PIA, but no real insight as to how to hold the shaft from turning. Manual just says "Threads are reverse, turn in anti-clockwise direction when viewed from the front".
Any suggestions before I begin? Any suggestions on the radiator removal, too? Looks like some tranny lines going to it, and it doesn't look easy like some have said. I'm scared.
 

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This is probably improper technique but I jam a very large flathead screwdriver (it's about 2 feet long) between the 10 or 11mm pulley nuts on the water pump, then use the largest size adjustable crescent wrench around the nut. Point the wrench about straight up.

Then using a dead blow hammer (the orange plastic one with the sand or whatever is inside of it) - and bang it hard as I can to the right. It's reverse thread. So standing in front of the car, over the grille, you swing the hammer from the left to the right, Passenger side (US) to drivers side (US). One good knock it has always come off for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! If it's no more cave-man-ish than that, I can do it. I've used that procedure before on other things.
 

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Be careful bc you will start breaking fan blades off the plastic fan if your aim isn’t amazing... :)
 

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Literally just finished changing my waterpump right now !

As Nash says, big adjustable wrench and wack it with a mallet standing in front it's turned left to right (as it's opposite thread) usually if the pump belt is done up and tensioned that will be enough to hold it while you undo. If you undo the small screws holding fan cowl and you can lift out both fan and cowl together. There's no fixing at base just two tabs the cowl sits in but they can take a bit of energy to get them sliding upward.

No need to remove rad as you can pull pump easily.

Unusual to see gasket fail there.

First remove all drive belts, you may have to remove ps pump pulley with it's three bolts to get the belt off and it'll give you better access anyway.

The bracket holding the steering pump that covers that end of pump casting, you can just about undo the top 12 o'clock fixing with a thin 13mm flat ring as it's tight access next to the distributor in there. Move about 5 degree then flip wrench and another 5 (yep one of those situations) until you can get a finger in each side and spin it off. Saves having to get to any other pump bolts as they are badly awkward.

Once that's done it's just straight unbolt and remove.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Unusual to see gasket fail there.

The bracket holding the steering pump that covers that end of pump casting, you can just about undo the top 12 o'clock fixing with a thin 13mm flat ring as it's tight access next to the distributor in there. Move about 5 degree then flip wrench and another 5 (yep one of those situations) until you can get a finger in each side and spin it off. Saves having to get to any other pump bolts as they are badly awkward.
Thanks (all) for confirming the fan-nut technique. Sounds too easy, hope it works for me.
Regarding the gasket failure: I suspect a gasket failure because to view the coolant spewing out, it looked like it was a flattish-spray as if it was being ejected out of a blown-gasket section, and it looked like it was coming from behind the PS pump bracket......looking at the WP housing, it looked like (and the manual confirms it) the housing is sandwiched behind the PS bracket.

So there's a massive spewing leak, and if it's not the gasket, hopefully it's a cracked WP housing, but I gotta get in there and find out. And since there's 200k mi on the thing with no known history of the radiator, I'll replace that, too.

While I'm in there: Is there any additional access to the PS pump to replace whatever is leaking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, I looked at it myself, saw the big nut and have a large adjustable wrench, length of pipe, and a large-ish screwdriver, but see no obvious way to HOLD the WP pulley so it doesn't budge at all whist I whack the wrench/pipe.

HOW again do you hold the WP pulley? I get how you jamb the screwdriver between a pulley bolt-head and the pulley body, but there's no way to lever against a 2nd pulley bolt....the screwdriver has to be held fast somehow.

Not seeing it.
 

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I don't hold the pulley but just use a "short" normal length adjustable wrench and wack it a sharp blow as it releases quite easily.

If you use a longer wrench (seems the right thing to do) you then need to speed up the wack much faster as it has to move in a greater arc. Sounds wrong but try it short as you are effectively shocking the tightened nut against belt traction, the faster you hit it the more chance the traction will hold fast to break the nut loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I stuff an old towel between the belt and the pully.
I am tempted to try this method, but I can't believe the towel/rag doesn't just compress enough to keep torque from going to the big nut, where it needs to. I guess if the nut is loose enough, or has been removed in recent memory, but if the nut is cinched down TIGHT, I can't see this method working.

So I am going to HF to get a LONG screwdriver, jamb it between a bolt head and the pulley hub, and try to prevent rotation with a cross-bar of some sort. _esus H. _hrist I HATE crap like this. How hard would it have been to design a flange on the fan viscous coupling that simply bolted to those (3) pulley bolts.
 

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It's more in how you thwack it that releases the lock. Just putting more leverage is against what it resists in use as they consume up to 5 bhp when fully loaded.

Usual domain of Cowdray Park and Windsor polo field, they understand a good thwacking :cool: que pictures of Royal family.

More seriously though, if you need more anchoring then one of the thin ratchet straps hooked to one chassis leg and a couple of wind round the pulley, then across to the opposite chassis and winch it tight may help you.
 
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