[Malafax_dand]

I was struggling to get the brake caliper off earlier, but was successful. The video is a walkthrough on the procedure to remove and refit the brake pads and brake rotors.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rq9yYxtWqB4

The valve cover gaskets are next.

 

[Guest]

I just did my pads yesterday (didn't need rotors this time round) and this video is spot on. An excellent tool for the shade tree / DIY mechanic who thinks he can tackle it. This should reassure them that they can easily.
I have 2 comments. When you wind the brake pistons back, you should always keep an eye on the fluid level in the brake reservoir (I had to drain some out). This second is more a minor annoyance of mine. The edges of the pads have a chamfer, which is pronounce SHAM - FER, not CAM - FER. Just my input

 

[Malafax_dand]

I used Akebono brake pads and I am a bit disturbed with the reduction in braking power. I have only done about 20 miles on the new pads and rotors. Does anyone think the braking power will increase as the pad and rotor surface continue to wear together?

The previous pads were dusty and squeaky as hell, but worked insanely well. I am wondering if I just found out why the Akebono pads are not as dusty and squeaky, i.e. they do not work as well.

 

[RR Family]

YES - IT WILL IMPROVE. I put the same rotor and pad combo on mine and after about 200 miles it really improved. Just wait, you will have normal stopping power and NO dust soon.

 

[linuxfreakus]

Which rotors are those then? Actually what are the part numbers for both the rotors and the pads? Assuming they work out, I'd be interested in trying them too when my current pads are done. The dust is crazy. My wife's 3 series BMW makes even more dust (if that is possible) might put some on there too.

 

[rfdiii]

I too would be interested, especially if they don't squeak!

I still have quite a bit of life remaining in my pads, but if I can find a quiet replacement that works well, I'd be tempted to just swap them out now.

 

[Guest]

http://www.armorall.com/products/view_p ... duct_id=33

Used this stuff and it works great. One quick application on the wheel and no more dust. :thumb:

 

[Malafax_dand]

Front Brake Rotors:
EBC Brakes GD1207 3GD Sport Brake Rotor - L/R Set : 270 USD

Front Brake Pads:
Akebono EUR681 EURO Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set : 78 USD

Rear Brake Pads:
Akebono EUR683 EURO Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set : 62 USD

I have not decided what to do yet with the rear. Do you think I can get away with just replacing the pads? The Rear pads are still very thick but do squeak.

 

[linuxfreakus]

As long as the surface is smooth, I would assume you can keep the rear rotors since the pads weren't even worn out yet.

 

[Stevemfr]

Hey Storey,
Squealing brakes is very often just a problem of crud causing the pads/calipers to stick and not adjust their position properly (although going by your front calipers - there's probably not a speck of dirt on them. :roll: ). Just cleaning the guide pins and pad resting surfaces (at the ends of the pads where they rest axially) and making sure that everything can slide smoothly and easily could do wonders for you - although you may have to drive a bit to get the pad surface in the correct plane again. I wouldn't change out the pads w/o trying other methods of getting the squealing to go away. I don't think of myself as a cheapskate but I am a bit frugal... :lol:

Mr. RR,
I would have sworn that Storey's pronunciation of chamfer was right. Learn something new... (although according to Webster, it is ch-amfer with a ch not an sh. That's prob a Brit/uneducated colonists thing. )
BTW, Armorall is ok if you're never planning on ever painting the wheels. Its main ingredient is silicone.

 

[Guest]

Didn't necessarily go the webster way, just a quick easy way of separating SHAM from CAM. I only know because i'm an engineer and it's something we use very often, so i spotted it immediately. I had to hear him say it twice before I realized what he was saying. It's just a minor annoyance of mine and in no way detracts from the excellent video.

As for the armorall, I should be fine as I have no intention of painting my wheels. if i were, I guess there is some degreaser / chemical wash that could be used as a prep before paint if it came down to it.

 

[Malafax_dand]

As soon as I heard myself say chamfer, I questioned it. I was wondering if it sounded too much like the sent. I second guessed myself but was not about to reshoot the video. `)

I think I will try the remove and refit of the original pads in the rear. Maybe that will get things on track with the squealing.

 

[Malafax_dand]

An update on the Brake pad and brake rotor replacement. Part number;
Front Brake Rotors:
EBC Brakes GD1207 3GD Sport Brake Rotor - L/R Set : 270 USD
Front Brake Pads:
Akebono EUR681 EURO Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set : 78 USD
British Parts of Utah:
Mercedes Benz Brake Anti Squeal Paste

So far after a couple of thousand miles, the brakes are perfect. Very little to no brake dust and absolutely no brake squeaking. The braking force has increased significantly since the initial install, but my butt dyno says that they are not as violently powerful as the previous pads. In the installation, I used liberal ammounts of brake grease purchased from British Parts of Utah (Mercedes Benz Brake Anti Squeal Paste). The anti-squeal paste and the antisqueal backings on the pads are what I think killed the squealing.

The rear brake pads and rotors were simply removed, cleaned and lightly sanded with some 220 grit paper. This cleared all of the friction material that had collected on the brake rotor and possibly sort of reset the brake pad surfce a bit. Then reinstallation used the previously mentioned Mercedes Benz antisqueal grease and all squeaking went away.

 

[clutzer]

Great post! I am researching brake pad manufacturers for my 2005 RR HSE. I assume that the '03 and '05 would use the same brake pad:

Akebono EUR681 EURO Ultra-Premium

However, as others have pointed out Akebono's site doesn't list a compatible product for the '03-'05, fronts. However I trust BP Utah and Storey (OP) that these truly fit and are correct. Dilemma, BPUtah is listing these at $105 for the pair (I would assume that's 4 pads for both calipers in the front). Amazon however is listing these at $60.12 (free shipping for Prime).

Can anybody confirm, first hand, that the EUR681 fits an '05 HSE?

 

[clutzer]

I satisfied myself via Google searches and the following site:

http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-brake-pad-set-front-eur681

that indeed these Akebono pads will be fine on an '05.

R. Storey, are you happy with your rotor choice? How are they holding up? Are they still black?

 

[silversurfer]

Stevefmr said
I would have sworn that Storey's pronunciation of chamfer was right. Learn something new... (although according to Webster, it is ch-amfer with a ch not an sh. That's prob a Brit/uneducated colonists thing. )

I suppose you spell Champagne SHAMPAGNE That after all is SH and not CH

 

[urodoc]

I Just learned the hard way the the torque setting for the caliper to hub 16mm bolt is different for the front brakes and the rear brakes on a 2007 FFRR HSE.
81 ft/lbs of torque for the front, and 48 ft/lbs of torque for the rears. The "click" I was hearing from my torque wrench as I tightened the rear brake caliper to hub bolts to 81 ft/lbs was actually me snapping the bolts, not the torque wrench...:sad:
To add insult to injury, no one in DFW has the bolts. So I am having Land Rover overnight them to the dealer. Ouch!!! $14.95 each...:crybaby2: