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Discussion Starter #1
I know there are several threads on dead or dysfunctional EAS; However lucky me gets one that seems to be just that little bit worse.

The situation:

Battery went flat over night - doh! left the keys in the ignition and on (live in a very quiet area) and came out to a totally flat battery. Charged it up and then on presented with a wanring not to exceed 35mph and the orrange up arrow on the dash. I thought this was due to the battery going flat and the system doing it usual of getting all confused. All started well but the wanring remained.

Much searching of forums reveals its gone into Hard Fault for some reason???????????????

I then explore this problem and have tried all of the manual overides that involve the shorting of pins etc but to no avail - not a thing no compressor or anything.

So I ended up taking it to the dealer this morning who plugged it in and they did'nt get a thing on their diagnosis either. There was one wire (red and grey) that had broken off the test socket which for the time being I just stripped the end off and stuffed back in the pin to make contact but still nothing.

So there you are the EAS is totally dead not a single bit of life at all.
PLEASE!!!!! Any suggestions.

Its typical, we were due to go and pick up my wifes new car today, hold on now its a Pajero and we are getting rid of her old Volvo 850, but I'm begining to wonder should we keep the Volvo with a million miles on it that has in the year we have had it not required a single thing to be done or keep the RR that has seen me under or, on or in it nearly every weekend in the months we have had it and that has cost a small fortune. I know ownership is not cheep but the reliability is getting beyond a joke.
 

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?

Am assuming that the car runs as you took it to the dealer and apart from the 35mph message its only the EAS that isn't working?

Its important that all diagnostic wires are making good contact in order for the Stealers TestBook diagnostic kit to work (pretty obvious). You say that the dealer didn't get a thing??? well that can't be correct, with testbook connected it goes through a series of pages and if it can't communicate with the EAS ECU it will attempt to by checking with the BECM and also other ecu's if the operator chooses this at least means that the diagnostic socket is working if there is no communication at this point then the diagnostic leads and diagnostic socket seem to be the cause, if though the lost communication is just to the EAS ECU then the problem is usually one of the white plastic cheep and nasty connectors that lives behind the plastic kick panel down by the passengers feet, Immediately to the left of the passengers feet. Move the seat fully back, pull off the trim holding the carpet down, pull a little of the door trim back and to the left of that remove the plastic panel, (one screw) behind it you will see two white plugs (smaller one is for the radio speakers) it will probably be green and mouldy inside and probably one or more of the connectors will be corroded or broken. Best advice is to get a soldering gun some heat shrink tubing and carefully solder the wires direct so the plug is not there you should be able to communicate with the EAS ECU now - why your dealer didn't fix this ????? probably to fiddly and charging for a new ECU, BECM and make mega bucks! let us know how you get on

ps on the other side of the car are similar plugs, do thos too if you are keeping the car or lots of strange elec probs.
 

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Is your EAS timer relay (under the passenegr seat) in place? Removal (or failure) of that will give the indications that you describe. Make sur eteh ignition is switched off when you insert/remove the EAS delay relay or you will get a hard fault.

You probably have power to the EAS compressor because you manged to star the car. The starter solenoid and EAS compressor are in the same electrcial circuit which is protected by Maxi fuse 2.

What indication have your got on the EAS suspension inidcation: access, highway, normal or off road? Or are all orange indicatior lights lit?

What level is the suspension really at?
 

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I can't remember which fuse it is, but as long as the eas compressor fuse is OK, you should be able to manually run the compressor.

Maybe go back and look at the instructions again. Ignition must be on to provide power to pin 1 so that you can jumper it up.
 

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sounds like you have no power at pin 1, the diagnostics have 2 wires direct from the EAS ECU to the OBDII connector, if one is bad you'll still get something on the other. if there is no power to the ECU you won't get anything. Check for 12v on pin 1, pin 18 is ground. work backwards from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the suggestions guys. I managed to get the EAS to pump up, for some reason the comnpressor only ran when relay 20 was removed and a direct 12V applied to the output pin. However when I then came to raise the eas it was tempermental to say the least. Anyway I managed to get it to a height that was usable and then took out the delay relay.

Unfortunaely when my wife was driving it back home later that day, when I was over the other side of the country she was about 1 mile from home and the batt light came on, lots of suqueeling and loss of power, she limped about 400 yards to our house and left it there with black smoke coming out from underneath. I know most will say, why did she not just stoip and leave it, womens logic I guess, 'its still kind of running so I'll just carry on' AAAAARRGGHHHHHHHH! Also tried the eas again tonight and I can get it all to go up direct from the pins on C117 when before it would'nt!!!

Well I got back home today and had a look - no loss of oil of any kind, no signs of burning or overheating (she said the temp was as it always is in the middle). Tried to turn it over and eurghhh! didn't want to turn over. However, it was drawing a hell of a load when doing so all thge interior light just about went out. I going to have a look at the starter motor as I can't actually get it to move or roll at all. Watch this space

On top of all of this the exhaust also gave way on her way home too. I think it will sound awesome but it will no doubt upset the neigbours in the next village.

Anyone want to but a slightly sad 4.6 vogue!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Ouch :( sorry to hear about your problems..

i will have to forget iv read this:
VEE ATE said:
Anyone want to but a slightly sad 4.6 vogue!!!!!!!!!!!
Because i always think yes i do lol
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Im that tired after having very little sleep over the past 4 days that Ive just seen all the slpellign misstaykes Ive mayde!!!

Please don't flame me for them!!

I have also found the joys of getting the starter motor off, not only do you have to have lots of extension bars but also the one thing I don't have - the exact size allen bolt needed. Oh well maybe in the morning it will all turn out to be bad dream.
 

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hi sorry to hear about your troubles mate , its not just a case of a u/s alternator and flat battery is it by any chance , have you tried jumping it ? i know that if the alternator throws the towel in all kinds of wierd and wonderful things happen to these cars ..................just a thought :lol:
rick.
 

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VEE ATE said:
the batt light came on, lots of suqueeling and loss of power, she limped about 400 yards to our house and left it there with black smoke coming out from underneath......

......Tried to turn it over and eurghhh! didn't want to turn over. However, it was drawing a hell of a load when doing so all thge interior light just about went out. I going to have a look at the starter motor as I can't actually get it to move or roll at all. Watch this space
I think you're barking up the wrong tree to be honest mate. Batt light on / squealing / smoke - hmmmm, sounds to me like either the alternator, waterpump, tensioner or AC compressor has siezed. Take the serpentine belt off to check and I'll bet you'll be able to turn the engine over and start it.

Cheers,
Chrisall.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well turns out it was a duff alternator which had totally seized as well as the starter motor that has also given up the ghost. The alternator was the cuase of the failure to turn over and it was just luck that I took out the starter (after much sweating and swearing). So now its a case of a fitting a replacement starter and alternator as well as a new belt. Then I can get back to the problem of the EAS not playing and then sort out the exhaust too. Phew!

Thanks for the suggestions, they have been a real help.

Unfortunately my wife now wants shot of the rangie and to replace it with somthing bland and dull but also reliable such as a jap pick up... NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Maybe I can convince her a newer rangie will be better, more reliable and require less of my time!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well just to let you all know that the alternator was changed and I then had to go away for a few days. I fully intended to sort out the EAS when I got back. Well I got in it today started it up just to make sure everything was as it should be and to set all of the windows as the battery had been disconnected and the truck rose up to normal height!!!!! So I'm going to leave it well alone now.

Cheers all
 

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So does this mean that the EAS will reset itself (or forget it's in a fault situation) if the battery is disconnected? Are fault codes stored when there is no normal 12v power from the battery as common sense would believe or does it store them 'till cleared by TestBook?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Not sure why it is now working when before I had the battery connected and disconnected several times but the EAS was still dead. The jumper wires were not even helping ainitially then the worked then only the front rights would raise or lower. I think the fact its now working may have been somehow due to the duff alternator, but cant be sure.

All I can say is the 35mph warning is now gone the EAS works fine and I am going to sacrafice a goat and two chickens to thank the gods tonight.

It does not make sense to me as I was under the impresion the computer stored fault codes regardless of the power supply.

Not much help really, but considering I was looking at some pretty big bills to get the EAS sorted by a dealer I am now just going to leave it well alone.
 

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Rich998a said:
So does this mean that the EAS will reset itself (or forget it's in a fault situation) if the battery is disconnected? Are fault codes stored when there is no normal 12v power from the battery as common sense would believe or does it store them 'till cleared by TestBook?
The codes are stored until reset, apparently though, sometimes a hard-fault will "clear" and resume normal operation, but the codes will still be there for reading/diagnosis.
 
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