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Discussion Starter #1
just changed the oil on my 94 range. while i was doing it i whipped off a rocker cover to have a look see as i have a noisy tappet on that side. pretty grim was the view ,waxy oil deposits black cr?p every where . clearly needs at least a top end rebuild.i have a spare engine(93year) with 55,00 miles and looking pretty clean under the rocker cover.
replace the lot or top end rebuild is the dilemma .
the thing is i dread replacing the lot, as automatic box and general weight etc are probably stretching my capabilities,even tho i´ve swapped diesel motors on my defender. rebuilding the top end also makes me a bit twitchy ,i don´t have the patience that makes a good mechanic .money is tight, so realistically i´m doing it, there´s no hurry ,so whats the best option.i´m erring towards changing the lot . waddya reckon chaps ?
 

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Yeah, if you've got a good spare then go with that. It'll probably be easier than you think - and I believe the V8 engine weighs less than the diesels you've previously swapped.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yup ,you gotta be right.need to take my time get some help for the fitting and not rush.poc a poc, as they say in mallorca.
its splitting the auto transmission from motor that mostly concerns me.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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138 Posts
Is it expensive to re-build the 3.9EFI?

The reason I ask is I took off the crank case cleaner to wash out the gauze and there was a thick black layer of sludge in the rocker gallery.

Is it difficult to bring the 3.9L block upto 4.6L spec? Will the auto hold up?

I'm not planning any immediate action as the engine still goes well and will have to get the work carried out at an engine shop.

Cheers.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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4,635 Posts
The 3.9 is cheaper to rebuild than a 4.6, and in most cases, you will have a surcharge as you are exchanging a 3.9 for a 4.6.

Really, the only extra consideration when getting the RV8 rebuilt, is getting top-hat-liners put in. Everyting else is pretty standard on the 3.9. A 4.6 (or 4.0) is cross bolted, uses a crank sensor and coil pack etc and so the block differs slightly. It is a stronger engine than the older 3.5 and 3.9, although the 3.5 is the most reliable of the lot.

If you were to up the spec, the 4.0 later (GEMS/THOR) engine could be an option, although you will need the distributor type over the coil pack type. Perhaps a standard 4.0 (made for a Classic) with the gas flowed heads would be the best match. Cheapish and reliable without messing about with anything which could cause issues later.

Have a browse at Turner Engineering to give you an idea of prices.

IMPORTANTLY, make sure you budget beyond the engine itself. You'd be silly fitting just a new short unit. Factor in a new oil pump and cover, new waterpump, new radiator, hoses, oil cooler hoses etc. Maybe even factor in a rebuild of the fuel injection or injectors.
 
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