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2002-2005 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,
After a series of unfortunate mistakes, I find myself needing to replace a damaged upper oil pan gasket. I tried to find a post on the replacing the upper oil gasket but could not find one. Only information I found was that i requires the removal of the sub frame. Looking under the vehicle, I see that the front diff looks like its in the way. Can anyone let me know if I can replace it without removing the front differential?
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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346 Posts
Without knowing what engine you have you are unlikely to get an answer. List the year, model and engine and that should help.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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869 Posts
If it's an '03-'05, then the lower subframe has to come down...or the engine up. And "yes" the axle has to come out too.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #4
Hello again,
kg74 you make a great point, thanks. It is a 2004 range rover with an M62 BMW engine.

CJD thanks for the info.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I will throw this out there as a suggestion as I am not sure if it will work.

When some change their timing guides on the M62 they cut the upper oil pan gasket where it mates with the lower timing cover - on reinstall they apply RTV or equivalent at the cut joints on both sides. On my RR, engine number 2, the shop that did the work used this approach. Based on the paperwork it held without leaking for 50k plus miles. On other BMW engines, mainly the M54, owners cut their oil pan gasket into two parts and seal the cut with RTV or equivalent to avoid the incredible labor involved in a proper replacement. These are metal caskets. This is done because the oil sump pump is in the way.

Using this idea could one do the same with the M62 - Cut the gasket into two parts - stagger the cuts somewhere in the middle of both sides and RTV or equivalent the cut seams/joints?

For the M54, the shortcut process is basically drop the pan by removing only the pan bolts, cleaning up really well, then position the two oil pan gasket pieces properly add RTV and bolt up. For the M62 (maybe use a number of longer bolts (at least 3 per side) to maintain alignment) RTV or equivalent the seams and the 2 or 4 specified spots and then tighten it all up.

If you do your homework you can find upper oil pan gaskets for about $22 by cross referencing with all the M62 blocks and electing the cheapest one. I found a Victor Reinz that fit perfectly and looked like the OEM one I removed off engine #4.

As I recall RAVE says to put RTV at the area near the RMS holder on both sides and at the two lower timing cover joints (Basically where the block has joints). Then just add RTV at the cut joints and tighten up.

The only challenge would be the oil drip coming down the sides, but if you let it drain for a few days, spay above as best you can, clean up and work fast this could be minimized. The challenge is keeping the RTV spots free of oil which would compromise the seal.

Just a thought - maybe others will chime in as to feasiblity with a fresher recollection of the upper oil pan gasket. I do recall some inner bolts and don't recall how restricted access is.
 
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