upper ball joint removal help

4845 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by brad s1, Apr 30, 2018

brad s1

Discussion Starter · Apr 27, 2018

The one with the torx bolts on either side. I had no problem separating the control arms using a ball joint split, or removing the lower ball joint, The upper with arm separated seems to be a real problem. No access to get a press over it really unless there is some specialized tool I'm unaware of. Also even with a press it has those wings the torx bolts pass through. How are you guys removing those? I heated it to the point it was glowing, hammered on it with extensions + 5lbs hammer, chiseled under the one wing I had access to, no joy. I'm going to try to find a low profile c-clamp, throw a jack under the rotor, and possibly put the c-clamp over the ball joint and coupled to the jack but I'm not hopefully on that. Any info/tactics/tool recommendation would be greatly appreciated.

TIA

~Brad

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Mrmerlin

· #2 · Apr 27, 2018

I dont have any suggestions, do you have any pictures

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MARK_C

· #3 · Apr 27, 2018

This guy got his out with a hammer, and chisel, took a while to get it going but eventually he did get them out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uDGPseTJ6w&t=19s

Just don't use any of the suspension bolts going thru bushings over again, they are all torque to yield. I need to do mine now that it is getting warm again.

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brad s1

Discussion Starter · #4 · Apr 27, 2018

Mrmerlin said:
I dont have any suggestions, do you have any pictures

video posted below is the ball joint in question..

MARK_C said:
This guy got his out with a hammer, and chisel, took a while to get it going but eventually he did get them out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uDGPseTJ6w&t=19s

Just don't use any of the suspension bolts going thru bushings over again, they are all torque to yield. I need to do mine now that it is getting warm again.

I watched this video, I wish mine took the 30-40 min he said his did. I've tried everything at this point short of an acetylene torch which I don't want to do on account of the rubber components around it. I've even gone as far as buying an extra ball joint press tool and chopping it up so it'd fit the tight spot. Doesn't move even a little.

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brad s1

Discussion Starter · #5 · Apr 27, 2018

This is the tool I made, it is all square, fits over the joint and I cut recess' in the can to allow for the torx bolt wing part of the joint to travel as it is pressed out. I put hundreds of pounds of force on this thing, it doesn't budge. I've just left this thing on there fully torqued as best I could, shot it with penetrating grease and I'll just leave it alone for a couple of hours. Hopefully it moves a bit to get things started, otherwise I don't know. Might have to pull the whole thing off and use a shop press on it.

Tire Automotive tire Auto part Wheel Automotive wheel system

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Mrmerlin

· #6 · Apr 28, 2018

I would soak the top of the BJ with PB blaster,
then wire brush the top side clean, this is important.

Then soak it again,
let the area stay wet for a few hours,
the PB will dissolve the corrosion.
Get a quality air hammer with a flat tip on it and air hammer the BJ out .
wrap a folded cloth around the CV boot so you dont damage it.
If your using the torch wet the cloth then wrap it around the CV boot.

This BJ is corroded into place and cleaning the backside should be good to remove it

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brad s1

Discussion Starter · #7 · Apr 28, 2018

Thanks for the info will carry that out and let you know.

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brad s1

Discussion Starter · #8 · Apr 28, 2018

Just wanted to thank you. My compressor had been broken for a year so I quickly rebuilt that this morning, grabbed a new air hammer since I've never owned one of those. As you said soaked it in PB and laid ontop of it with the air hammer and the thing flew right out after about 2 minutes. Thanks again for taking the time.

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Mrmerlin

· #9 · Apr 29, 2018

The air hammer is a cool tool for suspension work glad it came out.
For fun put some rusty nuts in a cup,
add some PB blaster,
wait a few hours then remove the nuts,
they should look like new.

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kg74

· #10 · Apr 29, 2018

I have to agree with the magic of the air hammer. I have two mechanics that rip through repairs like yours by hitting the troubled part with an air hammer. It took me 30 minutes to push a CV with the "proper" tool - my mechanic hit it with an air hammer and it came out in seconds.

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brad s1

Discussion Starter · #11 · Apr 29, 2018

Got on to the other side of the car today, use the chisel to peel up both torx bolt wings immediately, then switch to a blunt tip and hammered on the wings it to spin the joint a fraction in both directions letting the PB blast work in... Finally went to town on the top part of the joint and it popped right out. All in about 8-10 min to remove. If anyone ends up searching the forum for a how-to on removing these, air hammer. Thanks again Mrmerlin

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Mrmerlin

· #12 · Apr 30, 2018

Your welcome Brad!

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Meerbusch

· #13 · Apr 30, 2018

@bradS1, cool tool !! I often had this Problem, i took a (german word: Bohrmaschine) for take out the pressure of diametric. Sorry may bad english....

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brad s1

Discussion Starter · #14 · Apr 30, 2018

Meerbusch said:
@bradS1, cool tool !! I often had this Problem, i took a (german word: Bohrmaschine) for take out the pressure of diametric. Sorry may bad english....

I considered doing that but there wasn't a lot of room and the CV boot in the way. If the air hammer didn't work that'd have probably been the next step though.

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