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Discussion Starter #1
From what I understand, there is a pair of H7 type (highs) and a pair of H4 type (fogs) up front. I'd like to hear some success stories and possibilities for upgrading the bulbs.

There's a second button next to my fogs switch for some lights in the rear (middle of taillight) I don't know what those or called, OR what bulb type they are. Curious!
 

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The fog is an H11 with ZERO space behind it for an LED or other than stock halogen bulb in a MY10-MY12. You might be able to do it on a MY02-MY09 as the fog is in the bumper but i think its tight too. Philips, sealight, none of the 1:1 lights will fit as the window washer tank is directly behind the drivers light on the MY10-MY12 and leaves about 1/8 inch of room behind the bulb.

Osram makes an LED upgrade entire can to replace the whole fog can. Powerfuluk has a few different versions you can check out. FYI the feedback I've heard is they're horrible at actually lighting up the road tho.

The High is an H7 with a little space but very few LED manufacturers make a quality H7 bulb.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The fog is an H11 with ZERO space behind it for an LED or other than stock halogen bulb in a MY10-MY12. You might be able to do it on a MY02-MY09 as the fog is in the bumper but i think its tight too. Philips, sealight, none of the 1:1 lights will fit as the window washer tank is directly behind the drivers light on the MY10-MY12 and leaves about 1/8 inch of room behind the bulb.

Osram makes an LED upgrade entire can to replace the whole fog can. Powerfuluk has a few different versions you can check out. FYI the feedback I've heard is they're horrible at actually lighting up the road tho.

The High is an H7 with a little space but very few LED manufacturers make a quality H7 bulb.
So the idea of bulb adapters and H1 Mini Projectors are completely out, given the space available?

Also, have we identified what type of bulbs are triggered in the REAR lights via the dash button next to the fogs?
 

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So the idea of bulb adapters and H1 Mini Projectors are completely out, given the space available?

Also, have we identified what type of bulbs are triggered in the REAR lights via the dash button next to the fogs?
If they are deeper than a stock H11 at about 1/2" you'd have to get really creative.

The rear fogs are LED built into the rear LED taillights on a MY10-12.

You should check out my MODS/reverse lights thread. Its a great DIY project for upgrading the poor reverse lights.
 

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If they are deeper than a stock H11 at about 1/2" you'd have to get really creative.

The rear fogs are LED built into the rear LED taillights on a MY10-12.

You should check out my MODS/reverse lights thread. Its a great DIY project for upgrading the poor reverse lights.
Don't mean to hijack, but how are your led pads holding up in the reverse lights. I purchased the lights (leds), but haven't done the mod yet. I can't wait to see the difference!
 

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Don't mean to hijack, but how are your led pads holding up in the reverse lights. I purchased the lights (leds), but haven't done the mod yet. I can't wait to see the difference!
I have had no issues at all. I posted an update in that thread recently. I bought another MY12 SC yesterday, I'll be building another set of reverse lights and then 2 pairs of bumper lights for both MY12s.

As for the OP topic I did philips ultinons throughout the MY06 interior and exterior with just silverstars for H7+H11 as the reflectors are designed for those anyway.

If you buy regular LEDs use a good brand like Osram/Sylvania or what I prefer, Philips. The cheap ones can flicker, not be consistent color and even be a fire risk. Don't believe the hype, the brand does absolutely make a difference even if 2 brands supposedly are manufactured by the same company they can be made to spec which can be very different.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The fog is an H11 with ZERO space behind it for an LED or other than stock halogen bulb in a MY10-MY12 . . . the window washer tank is directly behind the drivers light on the MY10-MY12 and leaves about 1/8 inch of room behind the bulb.
I wonder if anyone has tried any tricks like using a heat gun to form a little concave "bubble" into the washer tank to gain some clearance.
 

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I wonder if anyone has tried any tricks like using a heat gun to form a little concave "bubble" into the washer tank to gain some clearance.
I personally would not recommend that but its possible and not a mission critical part of the vehicle if its screwed up.

Lets be honest, you just dont like the color of stock lights as no LED is actually going to perform better IRL than a silverstar or nightbreaker. But I get the color issue as it bugs me too. I did try a philips LED in the pass side and the color was better the lighting was not.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I personally would not recommend that but its possible and not a mission critical part of the vehicle if its screwed up.

Lets be honest, you just dont like the color of stock lights as no LED is actually going to perform better IRL than a silverstar or nightbreaker. But I get the color issue as it bugs me too. I did try a philips LED in the pass side and the color was better the lighting was not.
And if I mess something up?





I do remember the fogs in my Jeep being SilverStar and they were very powerful (compared to the hi/low beams). Their headlights are crap. Especially the “Ultra” with the blue tinted bulbs.

Love the factory D3S and the 5000k color, if I could duplicate that, I’d be content. It’s easier to match with Halogen bulbs than 6000k!


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Keep in mind that 5000k/6000k do not necessarily project more usable light. It's just color not lumens. It may look brighter but it's not. When it comes to head and fogs it's an issue. With parking and side not so much. A 4300k headlight will actually give you more usable light, but won't give you the blue/white look that many strive for.
 

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And if I mess something up?



😂😂😂😪😂

I'm dead.

Lettuce be cereal tho; that stuff and plastidip have some fantastic uses when done properly!

EDIT: that might be a good idea to place over the heated/shaped area either way. Once you start molding that plastic tank its going to stretch and thin in the spots it feels most heat.

Forgive me if I'm soapboxing, LEDs emit more heat per watt (also more lumens hence the heat) than a standard bulb. Most of those H11 bulbs like sealight or philips (or any similiar clone) tends to have a lot of heat buildup near the rear of the base. They stick the heatsinks, fans etc right there to help dissipate the heat.

Follow along with me here, that stuff could help insulate the tank to prevent damage from unwanted proximity/heat build up.
 

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Discussion Starter #14


I'm dead.

Lettuce be cereal tho; that stuff and plastidip have some fantastic uses when done properly!

EDIT: that might be a good idea to place over the heated/shaped area either way. Once you start molding that plastic tank its going to stretch and thin in the spots it feels most heat.

Forgive me if I'm soapboxing, LEDs emit more heat per watt (also more lumens hence the heat) than a standard bulb. Most of those H11 bulbs like sealight or philips (or any similiar clone) tends to have a lot of heat buildup near the rear of the base. They stick the heatsinks, fans etc right there to help dissipate the heat.

Follow along with me here, that stuff could help insulate the tank to prevent damage from unwanted proximity/heat build up.
Absolutely. You are the first person to draw the distinction between the different parts of the bulb that heat up on halogen vs. LED.

This is extremely important.


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Did the Osram full can replacements today. They fit in the MY10-MY12 bumper amd barely clear the windshield washer tank.

281101


281102


This is the left side (drivers side) where the tank sits behind. Maybe 1/8" of clearance between the back of the light and the tank.

281103


281104


We'll see how they look at night

281105
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Did the Osram full can replacements today. They fit in the MY10-MY12 bumper amd barely clear the windshield washer tank.

View attachment 281101

View attachment 281102

This is the left side (drivers side) where the tank sits behind. Maybe 1/8" of clearance between the back of the light and the tank.

View attachment 281103

View attachment 281104

We'll see how they look at night

View attachment 281105
Can’t wait to see. Don’t leave us hanging!


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Going to have to try to aim them. My first impressions are mixed:

1. Really thin band of light. The normal beam extends just as far but fills in a much greater area than the Osram LED fogs. For me, sitting inside the car the band starts just at the front of the hood but different drivers will have differentnt results.

2. The "6000k" color and focused intensity overwhelms the headlights "4300k" stock osram d3s bulbs. At dusk and early night you see the fog band and not the headlights. I had to stop and check several timea that my headlights were actually on.

3. The light is focused, they are crisp but not blinding when looking directly at them.



281106


281108


281107
 

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Going to have to try to aim them. My first impressions are mixed:

1. Really thin band of light. The normal beam extends just as far but fills in a much greater area than the Osram LED fogs. For me, sitting inside the car the band starts just at the front of the hood but different drivers will have differentnt results.

2. The "6000k" color and focused intensity overwhelms the headlights "4300k" stock osram d3s bulbs. At dusk and early night you see the fog band and not the headlights. I had to stop and check several timea that my headlights were actually on.

3. The light is focused, they are crisp but not blinding when looking directly at them.



View attachment 281106

View attachment 281108

View attachment 281107
What is the part number / model number that you used? Did you get these from powerful UK?
 

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What is the part number / model number that you used? Did you get these from powerful UK?
I did order them from powerfuluk but only because I was filling another order and shipping was already covered.

You can get them on Amazon for about $100 USD (pretty much same price) Osram Ledriving F1.

I'm not sure these are my first choice and may sell them. They will definately appeal to someone and it may take upgrading my DS3 to a 6k bulb to even it all out to my liking. I am shocked by how much they do contrast in low light like dusk. You clearly see they are lighting up the road when there is still quite a bit of ambient light.

I just found an older Osram LED H11 on Amazon I might try as it looks to be true 1:1 size and should fit. Ive been using normal philips xtreme vision H11 bulbs which are 10x better than the stock brightness and color but still only about 3800k color and definately do not light up the road at low light like the F1s do but they do provide much fuller and broader coverage than the F1s (which may solely be by design of the F1 reflector and can).
 

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I did order them from powerfuluk but only because I was filling another order and shipping was already covered.

You can get them on Amazon for about $100 USD (pretty much same price) Osram Ledriving F1.

I'm not sure these are my first choice and may sell them. They will definately appeal to someone and it may take upgrading my DS3 to a 6k bulb to even it all out to my liking. I am shocked by how much they do contrast in low light like dusk. You clearly see they are lighting up the road when there is still quite a bit of ambient light.

I just found an older Osram LED H11 on Amazon I might try as it looks to be true 1:1 size and should fit. Ive been using normal philips xtreme vision H11 bulbs which are 10x better than the stock brightness and color but still only about 3800k color and definately do not light up the road at low light like the F1s do but they do provide much fuller and broader coverage than the F1s (which may solely be by design of the F1 reflector and can).
Good info.

You mean these? https://www.amazon.com/Osram-LEDriving-Lights-Universal-LEDFOG201/dp/B00NW7NN6G

So the color temp is vastly different from your low beam headlights? I'm assuming you have the HID factory ones still installed?
 
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