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If the part number FQM100690 in the ad is correct, according to Microcat it's actually only for VIN range XA410482 to XA430701. Who'd have thought there would be so many LHR latch types...
 

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Gilbert,
The 5é door is for me tailgate
I read pins 6/8 at C325 and pins 15/18 at C361 are the rear doors
Do you also know the pins and socket for the tailgate?

Franc
Sorry Franc, I thought that was a typing error. The tailgate is earthed through the RHF (droit de devant) door latch so when that door is unlocked, an earth is supplied to one side of the pushbutton on the tailgate. As you can get into the car, take the panel off the lower tailgate so you can get to the back of the pushbutton and earth one of the wires. One will do nothing, the other will open it.
 

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Thanks for the continued info all - and apols for radio silence, mad week at work. Marty, I've checked my VIN and it ends XA411165, so according to Orangebean's post, the bit I need is FQM100690. Is this one of the one's you have? Please PM if so, and we can sort the details. Would happily buy that eBay one but the seller is now on hols! Thanks again, Paul.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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I know the feeling - I've been busy catching up with my parents who were over from NZ and now away again for work until the end of June.

FQM100690 is one of the ones that I don't actually have unfortunately...

If you get one from the likes of eBay and swap it out, then I'd be keen on having the faulty one if you don't mind? I'll happily pay the postage on it.. I am trying to add at least one of every variant to my collection of latches, with the aim of having one of each equivalent part number built up and ready to send out should it be needed... however, my distinct lack of time at time usually puts paid to that!!

Sorry I can't help out with a replacement for you though...

Marty
 

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Hi Marty - no probs. Will try and get hold of the latch, and will happily post out the old one to you - not sure what state it will be in, but will give you a shout when ready.

Many thanks,
Paul.
 

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Once you've got a replacement, I'll happily nip over and help you remove/destroy/open the old one......
 

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Hi Marty - no probs. Will try and get hold of the latch, and will happily post out the old one to you - not sure what state it will be in, but will give you a shout when ready.

Many thanks,
Paul.
Thanks for that :) I am not too fussed about the condition it's in... I have enough others kicking about with have had other parts broken/failed or missing that I have spare parts to swap out...

Looks like Gilbertd wants to get his hammer out :)
 

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Hey Marty/Richard,

Thanks for continued help - and cheers for the offer Richard. I've literally just had a crack at removing it before I ventured onto the forum. So... Actually went fairly well (bar a chisel I dropped inside the doorframe, ahem..) If you'd like to help try and get the new one in I'd deffo appreciate it, although...
IMG_1212.JPG IMG_1213.JPG IMG_1214.JPG IMG_1215.JPG
The latch I ordered off eBay isn't the right one. Embarrassingly there's a really prominent label on the old latch that I hadn't seen. No: 336087 Marty do you have one of these available? Alternatively the latches look incresibly similar bar the bottom wiring details - worth trying to hook the old loom upto the other latch (anyone know the details?) or is this likely to be doomed from the start?

Thanks again in advance,
Paul.
 

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I didn't think the latch in the ebay link looked like the right one :(

I have a few of the ones that you have as a replacement, with the connector moulded into the latch housing, but none of the type you have with the wiring coming out of the latch (which is why I'm interested in your old one, so I can add it to the collection!)

In theory, if the wiring loom reaches where the latch is supposed to fit, then the wiring *should* be the same. If the connector physically connects to the latch, then I'm pretty sure the actual pin connections are the same. I'll have a look in the electrical manual in a while and see if I can notice any differences though.

The easy way of checking it would be to hook it up in-situ before reinstalling it in the door, and test it.

Reinstallation is a pain unfortunately, as you need to remove the window regulator. The latch then rivets to the regulator (which is what the couple of holes are on the piece of metal that sticks up - one of the plastic rivets, or part of it, looks like it's still in the replacement.. With the window regulator removed, and the latch riveted to it, the whole assembly is then fitted back into the door (it is a bit fiddly!) and the regulator riveted back in (or some people use nuts/bolts in case it has to come out again).

I would urge testing the replacement latch in the door BEFORE re-riveting the window regulator in too, as it's a double pain to get back out once the regulator is fixed back in!

Glad you've got access now, and hope that info helps,

Marty

**EDIT** The number on the sticker.... I'm not sure what that is supposed to refer to, but it isn't a LR part number to my knowledge. Though I would expect to see a part number on the sticker - it could have faded off though.
 

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Thanks for this Marty.

I didn't realize the window regulator came out - I did wonder how the hell it was riveted there in the first place. I just sliced the end of the plastic rivets out. I was wondering if this fitment was critical and needed replacing? the door hex bolts are pretty sturdy?

It was quite a b*gger to get out of the door frame, so going back is going to be fun. I'm already well beyond my skill level, so Richard if you can lend a hand please let me know!

I've attached a few more higher res images showing the latches and the five coloured wires.

Cheers,
Paul

IMG_1216.JPG IMG_1217.JPG IMG_1219.JPG IMG_1218.JPG
 

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Hi Paul,

I'm still at work at the moment, but when I finish up and get back to my hotel room I'll have a look on the ETM and see what I can do about cross referencing the wiring for you. I would imagine they would be the same though as I don't see why they would mess about with the pin numbers when the latches effectively have the same connector (one's just got some wires on it!)

I dont believe they changed the pin assignments on the front when the latches were changed to the type with the wiring coming out of them, so dont see why they would don't for the rears... I know the pins are a bit different for the next version which uses a different connector, but I'm 90% sure your replacement will work fine if you can get the wiring loom to reach...

I would think that it will probably stay in place with just the bolts holding it into the door, and not to the regulator, but actually getting it past the regulator frame without bending anything too much or damaging either regulator or door frame could be interesting.

You could try cutting the tab off that the rivets go through, and it may give you enough wiggle to get it in...

Just don't cut off the clip holder for the door release cable!!

Will post back again when I've looked at the ETM.

Marty
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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Hi again....

Right, I've had a look and been able determine that the replacement latch that you have should fit in no problem and work - pin wise. The pin numbers weren't changed (according to the ETM) across the earlier model years.

The latch that was in your vehicle is of the part number FQM100690. Which is the LHR latch, with the later style of connection to the door handle, and the wiring coming out of the latch and into a short loom and connector.

The replacement latch that you have is actually part number ASR2309 - which was originally for vehicles From VA350716 to WA410481 These latches (as you can see) had the connector moulded into the housing, but the later style of connection to the door handle (they clip in as you know - the earlier ones just hooked over the top of a plate on the latch).

In the parts catalogue I use, FQM100690 is the superceded part number for ASR2309 (which means they can be interchanged) - so going by that, I don't see that you will have a problem using the older style latch in your vehicle, from an electrical standpoint - it should work fine.

My only worry is that the vehicle wiring loom won't reach - as the later style had a pigtail loom coming from the latch, I don't know if LR would have shortened the wiring loom in the door. If they have, then you may find it is too short to reach the latch without the pigtail wiring loom coming out of it. If this is the case, then you have 2 options - get the proper FQM100690 (which I don't have sorry! Hence why I'd like the broken one!)... or possibly extend the vehicle wiring loom by splicing in a shirt extra length of wire onto each of the existing ones - to then make the door loom reach.

Hope this helps... if you need any extra info, then just let me know...

Marty
 

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I'm already well beyond my skill level, so Richard if you can lend a hand please let me know!
No problem, just not in the very immediate future. I'm sitting here in Juan le Pins in the south of France at the moment but, unlike Marty, not working, I just had a few car bits (well, enough to fill the entire back of a P38 actually!) that needed to be bought down. So I bunged them (and the missus) in the car and drove down on Friday night/Saturday. We'll be back sometime in the early hours of Friday but then the following week I'll be working at Silverstone for the GP all week. Might have a bit of time next weekend though.

They did shorten the loom Marty. Where Paul had cut the wires in the loom to apply volts directly to the lock and superlock motors, there was only just enough slack for me to solder and heatshrink them back together so it will need the loom extending to reach the new latch.
 

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Never has opening and shutting a door been so pleasurable... :)

So for future info, in case anyone else gets stuck, with a lot of fiddling you can sneak the latch unit back into the door panel without removing the window regulator. Bit more fiddling you can reconnect the lock, and internal and external door catch. Then simply bolt the latch back in and you're away. I haven't connected to the window regulator with the plastic screws, but seems pretty sturdy as in. All working perfectly.

Looking at the old latch, it looks like the below white plastic has somehow fractured, and the spring has come through which gummed up the mechanism and caused the grief in the first place.

IMG_1226.JPG

Anyway Marty thanks so much for your continued help. If you PM me your address I'll send you the old latch - it is in quite a state, don't worry about postage, consider it swap for the advice. Richard, really appreciate your help - let me know if you're a beer or a wine man and I'll drop a bottle around sometime to say thanks - hope you're enjoying your hols. (btw - you're right, I did need to extend the loom about 25cm).

Thanks again, now tucking into a well deserved glass of vino...
 

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Richard, really appreciate your help - let me know if you're a beer or a wine man and I'll drop a bottle around sometime to say thanks - hope you're enjoying your hols. (btw - you're right, I did need to extend the loom about 25cm).
Both really but having got home at 03:30 this morning, I've still got to go outside and unload the wine I bought back from the boot of the car........ Bit short on beer though, they don't have much of a selection in Carrefour.
 

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Glad it's all sorted now! Must be a relief to have it all functioning as it is supposed to again... Thanks for the offer on the latch... the condition doesn't bother me at all! I'll drop you a PM in a minute with my details.

Also interesting to know that you can get the replacement in without needing to remove the regulator... Though I don't know how I'd manage to get one out to replace if it wasn't already damaged! Will investigate that a bit more though...

Good to hear you are back aswell Richard - didn't get caught up in the strikes or other chaos in Calais?

Marty
 

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No Marty, had a clear run. According to my friends over there, this is striking season in France as all the bank holidays have finished and workers don't like the idea of having to work 5 days a week so go on strike instead. The taxi drivers were on strike and had blockaded Nice airport causing huge queues on the Autoroute but going in the opposite direction to me. Calais was clear and deserted but that may have had a lot to do with the van loads of Gendarmes parked up every couple of hundred metres on the approach roads. Tell you what though, now my engine is nicely bedded in (rebuilt at 289,500, now showing 297,006) it pulls like a train. Saw 90 on the speedo at one point and rarely dropped below 80 all the way back. Not worked out the actual numbers but used less LPG than I have done in the past too.
 
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