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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Thanks all for the additional info. Firstly, huge sincere thanks to Richard/GilbertT yesterday for double-checking my limited efforts at checking the electrics. Really appreciated and beers due when I've fixed the b*gger.

Marty - yes please, can I get a re-conditioned latch. My RR is a 1999 2.5 DSE - do you need more info than that? I can see if there's a code or take a pic of the opposite drivers-side rear latch that I do have access to if req.? Please private me costs details and we'll take it from there.

So in terms of latch destruction, I'll look at Roger's description again, but if anyone has seen a guide for how to remove this that'd be really appreciated. I was thinking of taking it to a specialist, but as they'll probably employ the same 'extreme prejudice' methodology as me, and I've come this far, I'm tempted to try myself. just a bit worried about destroying other linkages etc.

The only other thought I had was whether I could access and drill through the screws for the striker bar from the wheel arch or from back boot? This would then come away and allow the door to release, although unless I'm really precise (unlikely) I'd then need to reattach the striker bar with wider screws - so this may be more problematic? Any thoughts?

Thanks again,
Paul.
 

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Banned
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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3,952 Posts
Marty, how many of the little Torx headed self tappers are there holding the back cover on a rear latch? We could see the three along the bottom and I was wondering if any more could be got at. If all, or at least some of them could be removed and the cover prised off, that would give access to the inner mechanism so it would be possible to release the latch without damaging anything other than the plastic cover. As long as Paul has a replacement to bung on, it should be a fairly quick job.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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12 Posts
hi,
i have a P38 2.5 DSE 2001, LHD.
Could i place a doorlock from a RHD in my passengers door ?

 
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Marty, indeed it does not work that way at the rear lock, but he has a locked front door as well ;-)

I think I remember the front door latch not only being held together with the small screws but by the bolts holding it to the door as wel.... removing the little ones probably won't let you inside....

no P38 here at the moment to look at options to get to rear striker
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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3,952 Posts
Marty, indeed it does not work that way at the rear lock, but he has a locked front door as well ;-)
No he doesn't, both front doors are opening, or they were yesterday as we opened them...... It's just the LH rear that isn't playing nicely at the moment.
 
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Then the front door issue had been solved allready i guess:

Can anyone tell me how to unlock a superlocked door? Is it possible to power the supply to it (bypassing Becm) - if so which wire/s?
I have a locked passenger front and drivers rear door on a UK (rhd) vehicle.
Key has lost synch and wont re-synch - I'm assuming because becm has locked down due to door lock issues.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,220 Posts
What connector is on the faulty latch? I can't quite see in the pictures what type it is.

I dont think I have a latest version latch with the bigger 8 way grey connector, but am most likely to have the earlier versions. I will have a look tomorrow and see which ones I've got.

If I do have one that's required, then I'll drop you a PM with the details :)

Sorry its taken me a couple of days reply here - been travelling back home and got my parents over at the moment...

Marty
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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3,952 Posts
Yes, it's the earlier one with the black 6 way connector but with only 5 pins used.

Roger, I noticed that too but I think Paul may have been confused at the time. Both front doors work as they should but it is the rear left door (passenger side on a UK car) that is jammed.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Sorry guys - only online now. I wasn't the OP, kinda hijacked the post. The bit quoted about front doors wasn't me. Sorry for any confusion, and thanks for continued help.

Cheers,
Paul.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,220 Posts
Hi Paul,

I will have a look in the morning, but I should have all the bits to assemble up a replacement rear latch for you. Thanks Gilbertd for confirming the type - I should be able to find one in my box of bits hopefully..

Regarding the question about undoing the screws to take the cover off the latch in the door, Rogerb is correct - the main torx bolts that hold the latch into the door bolt through into the metal plate on top of the latch, so you wouldn't be able to get it apart even with all the smaller screws removed unfortunately.

Marty
 
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Sorry guys - only online now. I wasn't the OP, kinda hijacked the post. The bit quoted about front doors wasn't me. Sorry for any confusion, and thanks for continued help.

Cheers,
Paul.
Ah.... overlooked the fact you were not the topicstarter ;-) well.... as said, my writeup is for the front doors, no use realy for you i guess
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Just had a look, and I actually DON'T have one of the Rear Door latch that you need Paul - sorry :(

I only have the earlier type that has the connector moulded into the latch housing - mostly because the vehicles that I've bought/stripped latches from are all 1995-1997 MY.

So sorry about that! If you get the latch out, then I would be able to rebuild it for you - though I am away again from the end of this week, until nearly the end of June - so probably would be quicker to source one from elsewhere...

However, I would be interested in the dead one, so I have one with that style connector on it to add to the collection!

Marty
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Would this be the one? on Ebay....
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,220 Posts
If that's the one, then I have them....

It just looked like in the pictures posted above that there is wiring coming out of the latch to a connectors, rather than it being moulded into the latch housing - as the eBay one shows...
 

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Banned
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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3,952 Posts
Marty, I think that picture has been edited so the dangling cable with the plug on it isn't shown. It does say it had the black 6 way plug with only 5 pins used so I would think it is (and the date and VIN range is correct for Paul's car).
 
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