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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone tell me how to unlock a superlocked door? Is it possible to power the supply to it (bypassing Becm) - if so which wire/s?
I have a locked passenger front and drivers rear door on a UK (rhd) vehicle.
Key has lost synch and wont re-synch - I'm assuming because becm has locked down due to door lock issues.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Rears are easy. You need to apply power and ground to the orange and orange/pink wires on pins 15 and 18 on C361 at the BeCM for the left rear door and the same colour wires on pins 8 and 6 on C325 for the right rear door. Connect power and earth one way round to lock, the other way round to unlock. Not quite as simple on the front doors as the wiring goes via the door outstation which will mean you've got to try and get the door panel off with the door locked shut. It's possible but the easiest way is the remove the seat. Once you are in there you need the orange/pink and pink/black wires on pins 2 and 8 of the plug into the door outstation.
 

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Aloha,
I was just successful in getting my Right front door un superlocked and open so I could remove the Becm and send to Scotty.
You ever try to remove the Becm with the RH doors closed? Not fun!
I have new latches in hand as mine were playing up a bit and were going to be replaced that very day, but I did not actually hurt the latch in this process.
First, I rolled down the window and used a wooden wedge to widen the gap in the top slot. I taped a flashlight to the sill aimed down the slot to see what was happening.
Then, I used a stiff wire with a hook to grab the sheathed cable coming from the latch and pulling with a couple of tugs, the plug came undone.
I figured the worst thing I would do is break a wire or 2, but that is an easy fix.
I was then able to use a power supply at 13 volts and a length of duplex cable with the ends stripped appx 1/8 in.
Then,holding the plug with the hooked wire with the pins facing toward the slot, I carefully placed the bare wire ends on the appropriate pins to cause the motor to unwind the superlock pawl and then was able to pop the lock open with the solenoid by hitting those pins.
It is important to use a current limited source as you will short the probe wires together in this process. The power supply limits at 4 amps and shuts down, no melted wires.
More importantly, you cannot fry a micro switch by passing 3-4 amps through it as a short circuit.
This took all of 15 min start to finish, but honestly, I think I got lucky! Polarity is important, but you will not hurt anything if you get it wrong.
I read a bunch of posts about cutting the bail, and destroying the latch with the factory recommended big screwdriver and hammer, and just sort of hit on this hare brained scheme as a lark....it works.
I know there are lot's of very clever folks lurking out there, and would welcome any refinements you could suggest?
Cheers,
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for advice. Have tried powering the wires as suggested. Can hear a click of a switch - not central locking motor bit smaller and quieter but nothing unlocks. Car still in lock down mode. Think its time for a match and some petrol....
 

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Did you try them both ways round? Power applied one way turns the motor to superlock, the other way turns it to un-superlock.
 

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In fact you have to apply power to both the superlock motor AND the main one. When operated the superlock motor just moves a small pastic cog so that the main motor can then be used to un-superlock the latch.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well...
Used the subtle approach on the front door. Very therapeutic. New lock £134 from dealer. Whilst there checked EKA code - reading mine via Hawkeye from the "alrmed" BECU. Turns out it lies to you... New lock on, correct EKA code in. Starts up and key synced.
Very frustrating, yet easily solved. Probably didnt need to trash lock but hitting a stubborn inanimate lump of steel, alloy and plastic is VERY satisfying.:D
 

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Hi @Gilbertd - I found this article via a google search on superlocked doors and you make the solution really simple. Here's hoping :)


My P38 2.5D has a superlocked rear passenger side door. I've taken the panel off and had an uninformed prod with no joy, so the BECM seems like the next best bet. From your instructions and using this as a guide: http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/becm/#removal it sounds like I need to locate the C361 plug and pins and attach current as specificed.


Stupid question #1 - what do i use to apply current? guessing a multimeter, or ?
Stupid question #2 - Is there a chance the door will then work normally, or is this procedure so that I can get at the lock/latch in order to replace it, or is this a suck and see?


Huge thanks in advance - this thread is so helpful.
cheers,
Bingo.
 

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OK, so made some progress but not much. Found where the right plug on the BECM is for the rear door, but access is pretty tricky unless I take off the drivers seat. Not being Mr Mechancial, I've instead stripped the rear drivers door panel, and found the orange & orange and pink leads.
Using an old phone charger I've managed to pass current to these leads (I've cut them for now and will re-attach if I manage to fix). Passing current one way round locks the doors, so I presume I'm definitely passing enough current. However, if I swap the current I can unlock the doors (door still jammed though). If I pass a current again, I can hear the click of a switch (like BrownWhite above) but this still doesn't allow me to open the door.

Anyone got any ideas or is it time for the specialist? Everything in the P38 works fine (well the radio lcd is dead, and the driver heated seat doesn't work, but in the scheme of things I understand this is pretty good for P38s...) Central locking works for all the other doors, no alarm issues etc. Just for the love of money cannot open the rear passenger side door :sad:
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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The phone charger may not be powerful enough to actually move the mechanism properly.. as most phone chargers are only 5V, and the motors are 12V.

Maybe give it another go with something like a 9V battery and see if that has enough grunt to actually turn the motor. The way the system works is it uses a small sprung pin that gets force outward by force when it's spun by the motor - which then latches into the cog to spin the latch mechanism to lock/unlock it. It could be that the 5V is spinning the motor, but not fast enough to get the pin to catch and spin the locking mechanism - which would give the sound/impression that it's doing something - when really it isn't.

It's a pity you aren't closer to me or I would have happily taken a look if I'm not away working somewhere!

Marty
 

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Hi Marty,

Huge thanks for the info - that definitely sounds like an option. I had resorted to drinking Doom Bar and sulking :) but will deffo give the 9v battery a try in the morning. I'll also try and get my hands on one of those powerboxes you can change voltage on, and crank to 12v.

The Doom Bar is tasting better already.

Thanks again!
 

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Just seen your location, I'm in Yaxley so about 5 minutes down the A1. I'm busy with various things on Saturday but should be about on Sunday if you are still stuck.
 

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Thanks again for the advice Marty_NZ and offer Gilbertd - that's really kind. Ironically Chris in Yaxley is my last port of call, if I can't sort, but don't really have the readies at the min :-(

So before I trouble your Sunday, any further thoughts? I've now connected 12v and while the thunk from the unlocking seems to have more gusto, the door is still firmly shut. I've tried pulling the latch down (bronze coloured item in pic 2 if I'm mis-describing it) and then connecting current, but this doesn't do much.


Door1.jpg latch.jpg

As a final aside, this issue happened when I lent the Range to my dad to take grandchildren on a trip. I guess it's possible that the door isn't superlocked and something may have been jammed in there when it was shut, but doubtful. The door looks to be shut very tightly and flush. The outside and inside door handles operate but fail to engage the catch in the door.

Am I now into screwdriver and hammer territory?

Thanks again
 

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Suppose there's no chance that the child-proof lock has a part to play in this?
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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The child lock only affects the interior door handle - this is also a mechanical interlock which is external to the workings of the latch itself, so should be affecting the locking/unlocking of the latch.

However, for the OP - by pulling down on the bronze bit whilst trying to unlock it - this won't work. As you are effectively trying to pull the door open whilst unlocking. The latch has to unlock BEFORE the trying to pull the door handle open - otherwise it just stays locked.

Also, if the door is superlocked - then you may need two bursts of power to unlock it - as the door locking motor will go first from superlock - normal lock - unlock. You should also see the button pop up where it would come through the door card to signify that it's unlocked. If you apply power in one direction and the interior lock button doesn't move, then try reversing the polarity. If it still doesn't move (and the door hasn't physically unlocked) then it's possible that something has actually broken inside the latch and jammed it. This doesn't happen often though.

First thing to try is powering the motor without pulling down on the bronzed lever - as it shouldn't need you to do that to unlock the door. If you try it without pulling on the lever and then after the lock has gone clunk a couple of times, try pulling the lever then and see if it releases. If not, release the lever and swap the polarity and try again. If it still doesn't work, then either a second set of eyes in the for of Gilbertd might help. or it's time to start looking for the tools...

Marty
 

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Thanks for the clarification Marty. I only tried to pull on the latch and connect current simultaneously out of desperation, having already tried to apply current by itself. Using 12v I can make the interior door lock button go up and down by reversing polarity. When it's in the unlocked state and I apply current I can hear a clunk but nothing further happens. Gilbertd if you are around tomorrow I'd be hugely grateful for a second set of eyes - if still convenient please let me know what time suits and I'll be there!
Many thanks,
Paul
 
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Looks like you are spot on Robert. Paul bought his car to me this afternoon and both superlock and central locking motors work when power is applied to them. With everything connected up as it should be the central locking is sounding and working exactly as it should, unlock and the door sill button pops up, lock and it goes down. The only thing is that neither inside or outside handles release the latch so it is definitely something broken inside the latch and it isn't releasing. Marty will be getting a call very shortly to see if he has a known good LH rear door latch in his stocks because there is no way this one is coming out in one piece.......
 
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the latch stays virtualy undamaged using the method i described in the mentioned post, allso you keep your doorcard neat
 

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Erm... I can have a LH rear latch built to order and shipped out in a couple of days as long as I.know what version it is (there's 3 different styles!)

I'm not sure if your method you used on the RHF would work on the rear doors Roger, as the striker isn't accessible on the rears. The front locks, you can take the rear door off for access but can't do that to the rears :(

Let me know if you need a latch and I can certainly sort one out.

Marty
 
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