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Discussion Starter #1
I'm posting this in the hope that it might prove useful. I spent a good week or so reading probably hundreds of different posts before I pieced together the correct info with the help of Adrian at BBS.

Basically I was unable to access the EAS ECU on my P38 with my Faultmate MVS2 and I couldn't figure out why, all other ECU's were fine but all I could get from the EAS was input data, anything else just gave me a VSE16 communication error.

I'd replaced the OBDII connector about a year ago as it was corroded and managed it get into the EAS ECU one for a couple of minutes before I lost comms. I could read live data but nothing else via a laptop. (live data comes via the white and light green wire to pin 11 on the OBD)

The two EAS data lines from the OBD socket to the EAS connector were fine, (Pin 11- (White & Light Green) TX pin 35 EAs connectorand
Pin 12- (White & Pink) RX to pin 17 on the EAS connector.

Afetr much searching I found out that in order to sync to the EAS ECU for diagnostic purposes the ECU has to be power cycled a number of times, this is done via a signal through pin 1 of the OBD connector (Grey/red wire which goes to pin3 on the EAS timer/delay relay under the passenger seat (right hand drive) if you don't hear the relay clicking when trying to connect then either the relay is duff, or there is a break in the connection between pin 1 obd and pin 3 on the relay.

Turns out I had both, an intermittent relay and a break in both wires at the white connector inside the passenger kick panel. This was highlighted as a possible cause by Adrian at BBS (thanks again for sticking with my uninformed ramblings!) This is apparently caused by a leak from the pollen filter area above which happens to drip right onto the last pin and causes the pins on both sides eventually to break down.

I was further confused by the fact that I could read fault codes in the ECU if I used the Faultmate in standalone mode but couldn't clear them. It turns out that if no connection is made the ECU will just return garbage errors, nothing to do with what is actually stored there so if you get 10 or 15 random errors suspect the wiring again!

Having now repaired all the wiring and replaced the timer relay I can now get in every time no problems.

As I say all this info is out there is bits an pieces but not all in one place unless you know what to search for so hopefully it might be useful to consolidate it!

As an added bonus the left stereo channel is now much better and a long lost Lego figure has been reunited with it's rather more mature owner.

Good luck!

 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Nice one, and well done for the patience in seeking out a comprehensive answer. Useful, very useful. All the more reason to check the Pollen filters more often, and keep the sponge filter in good condition at the base of the windscreen, thus not letting crap build up in the ventilation channels. Question: have you also had Hevac problems recently? Maybe linked to the water getting in?
;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Only the dreaded sticking distribution flaps, blend motors all good and working surprisingly but the casing has just shrunk down on the flaps and they're very stiff. They do move but take half a dozen presses of the selector buttons to move fully. Tried the lubing trick and the self tapper to prise apart the case but that just made it worse. Tried graphite lock lube first puffed down the top vents to avoid the WD40 smell initially but the case is just too tight. I did a partial strip of the dash and squeezed the casing together with a long clamp and it freed it up a bit but I'm resigned to having to take out the dash and remove the heater to do it properly.


Mine is a '96 so I guess it's had plenty of years to warp. I do have plans to recover the dash one day so until a free bit of time appears it pretty much stays permanently on windscreen defrost and I have to put up with the book symbol!


The joys of Range Rover ownership!
 
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